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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Occasionally when starting the bike, especially for cold starts, I'll hold down the starter button and the starter motor only does one little "whir" or however you can describe the noise it makes, and then it completely stops. The headlight seems to still be off, though I need to pay closer attention when I start the bike now to be sure of that. Then if I continue to hold the button it'll "catch up" and begin to spin and start the engine like normal. If I take my finger off of the button and hit it again after it "stalls" it usually will make it do its thing faster without as much of a pause.



Are these symptoms of a failing starter motor? I'd hate to be out in the middle of nowhere and then all of a sudden the thing doesn't work. Or should I just clean out the button and call it a day? As most problems I run into with the bike, it isn't consistent, so I wouldn't really be happy with cleaning the button as it'd probably go away for a bit, then come back when I least expect it. Are there any true surefire ways to test the starter motor, considering that most of the time it usually does run fine and that this little "hiccup" is only occasional?



Thanks.
 

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Cramer check that all your graounds are clean & not corroded, also have you serviced your starter by taking it off the bike and doing a disassembly? sounds to be intermittent and thus maybe a good cleaning check the brushes,armature and such parts clean degrease and check all grounds to start with here is the starter service link Shep refered me to. i followed the directions without a hitch starter works awesome now make sure you pay attention to how it all comes apart and count the amount of washers up at the head gear inside and out here is the link.

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=208#p1242



PS cleaning the starter button with a disasembly and good cleaning would not hurt also double and triple check the wires to and from battery and starter and also triple check the grounds from battery to frame how old/new is your battery?
 

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Little Buffalo gives good advice, servicing the starting motor is one of the simpler things to do on these bikes.



Another possibility would be the solenoid not making consistent contact when energized. If the internal contacts are badly worn, they may only hold a good contact momentarily, then the contact breaks. Shorting across the two big terminals with a screwdriver would show if the solenoid was to blame.
 

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It never ceases to amaze me just what quality these starter motors are.Amazing that some of them have not been apart for over 30 years and still working




Once cleaned it can make a massive difference to starting and load on the battery thus extending the life of the battery and the starter clutch mechanism.



There have been several people over the years have been on this and the old forums who have never had the confidence to,"Any" home mechanics but once they see how easy a Starter motor service is they gain confidence to tackle much more involved jobs.



The hardest part of doing a Starter motor service IMHO is loosening the Two long bolts if rusted in.I use heat from one of these wonderful little tools,



http://cgi.ebay.com/Hot-Jet-666-Fla...214?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cb4b252ae



and the Super Rust release fluid home-made mix,





http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/to..._16504__hl__acetone__fromsearch__1#entry16504



and a wire brush and vise grips.Remember to tighten bolts 1st slightly to crack their corrosion seal once rust release and heat applied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I recently replaced the battery, thinking it was the problem. Now the old battery holds a consistent 12.7 just sitting around so I know that it was good(oops), and the problem never went away.



I didn't realize how easy it was to clean these. I've done several things to the bike so far that are way harder than that. I'll get to it probably this weekend when I'm doing my fork seals/steering head bearings.



Thanks all for the speedy response.



Also, on a related note, whenever the engine turns over, after taking my finger off of the button I can hear the starter sort of "wind down." It didn't do this when I first got the bike, and I don't remember exactly when it started doing it (maybe a few months ago? I've owned the bike since May 2010) but anyone I brought it to told me that it's just a normal noise, hence why I never mentioned it in the OP. It just now reoccurred to me.
 

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Time and use and the Starter clutch mechanism will wear and you may get this spinning down sound.So long as it's not excessive it's not a problem.IME it's caused by the omission of the thin thrust washers either side of the smaller Starter driven gear/axle or incorrect/old oil etc.



Use the cheap 15w40 diesel engine oil recommend in many threads as I'm led to believe that it's higher zinc content that our engines like but also it can handle way much more mechanical friction anyway.



I also run my engines on a Moly additive called,"Molyslip",



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOLYSLIP-ENGI...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2a1081011e



NO clutch slippage.



It doesn't seem to readily available over there but you can get the same effect mixing some Molypaste



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Genu...2619247QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



to some oil and then adding that to the engine oil.I reckon a 3rd of tube would do per oil change.I also use a tea spoon full in my Drive boxes.I've been using Moly based products for over 30 years




It's quite amazing stuff,



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide



Molypaste or similar is used when I've done camshaft or crank work,





http://www.engineparts.com/installationtips.asp



and also when I have my heads off on the Rocker shafts.
 

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How often do you take your heads off Shep?


Quite often but as I've built my engines out of spares and also renewed some valve guides I've had heads of both my bikes several times for these reasons.

I also have a spare engine re-built kept ready.I also have a good set of heads I bought last year from a low mileage bike that I may fit to my other CX500 which is off the road because of finance so again I'll have the rocker shafts out etc.



I have enough spares to keep me going for years and I like renovating engines when I have the time and money.I have enough parts to make another two engines if I had the money or needed to




There's very few jobs I've not done on these bikes like change swinging arm bushes but as both mine are in good condition I've not yet needed to tackle that job.I also have a fully painted up frame in the back of my garage with brand new Tapered Roller bearing kit fitted
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, still haven't gotten around to taking it off and looking at it yet, been too busy fiddling with my suspension and trying to get it dialed in.



However, I realized that I've been having neutral light issues lately as well. The bike will be in neutral, but the neutral light won't come on. When I hit the starter switch, once the engine is running the light will come on.



I just looked at the wiring diagram and realized that they were wired to each other (should've dawned on me sooner). Is it at all possible that this is causing my problems? Note that it'll still start the engine when the light is off if the bike is indeed in neutral, but it does its little "coughs" as described above.
 

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On my present ride the Clutch override switch in the Clutch lever mechanism has gone.Having fitted one to my other CX and it's a PITA so all I've done is short it across with a bit of wire at it's spades and put the connectors back on.



This means the bike can be started in gear so it's safety feature is disabled but I as never try to start the bike on a side stand this is never a problem for me.I always park on the centre stand.

The neutral light wire also runs to the neutral switch at the bottom right hand side rear of the engine.I had a break in the wire there.I pulled it apart and re-soldered it with a bit of heat shrink sleeve to r-protect it.



http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R...=heat+shrink+tubing&_sacat=See-All-Categories



Hope this guides you to the problem.Also check the fuses and holders under the Headstock and there's a diode in there that is cheap to replace.See the manual.
 
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