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I don't know what your level of mechanical/electrical skill is but if you aren't very experienced I'd recommend looking for one in better shape and keeping that one for parts.
If you do decide to put that one back into running order the first thing I'd do would be look for a complete and unmolested wiring harness. Make sure you get on for the correct model and year because there may be differences (the model and model year (as well as the date of manufacture and the VIN) should be on a plate attached to the frame's steering head.
BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and even before someone started hacking away at things it may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - links in the signature of several of us) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). Your bike still has the original rubber brake line, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
I don't know what your level of mechanical/electrical skill is but if you aren't very experienced I'd recommend looking for one in better shape and keeping that one for parts.
If you do decide to put that one back into running order the first thing I'd do would be look for a complete and unmolested wiring harness. Make sure you get on for the correct model and year because there may be differences (the model and model year (as well as the date of manufacture and the VIN) should be on a plate attached to the frame's steering head.
BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).
And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and even before someone started hacking away at things it may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - links in the signature of several of us) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). Your bike still has the original rubber brake line, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
