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1983 CX650C
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

This is my first post, thanks for all the information I have picked up already. This seems like a great community. I am planning on upgrading my CX650c that I picked up last fall. I ordered some Murray’s carbs and the h box bypass pipes. I just want to make sure there isn’t anything else I should be upgrading while I do that to make sure I don’t do any damage to the the motor. It seems to be in good shape as far as I can tell. 32000 miles. I’m a welder and I taught myself how to work on vehicles on my 99 jeep xj so I like to think I’m pretty handy but I am no means an expert mechanic and I have done no engine work besides changing pumps and other basics. So keep it it laments terms for me if you can. No Rea San ignition, I saw that as a question when I bought the new carbs. Should I have one to upgrade carbs? This is my first bike and I love it. I have always enjoyed upgrading and personalizing my vehicles so I’m really into this new project. Thanks in advance.

Luke from Vermont
 

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Registered
1981 Honda CX500C
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66 Posts
Hey everyone,

This is my first post, thanks for all the information I have picked up already. This seems like a great community. I am planning on upgrading my CX650c that I picked up last fall. I ordered some Murray’s carbs and the h box bypass pipes. I just want to make sure there isn’t anything else I should be upgrading while I do that to make sure I don’t do any damage to the the motor. It seems to be in good shape as far as I can tell. 32000 miles. I’m a welder and I taught myself how to work on vehicles on my 99 jeep xj so I like to think I’m pretty handy but I am no means an expert mechanic and I have done no engine work besides changing pumps and other basics. So keep it it laments terms for me if you can. No Rea San ignition, I saw that as a question when I bought the new carbs. Should I have one to upgrade carbs? This is my first bike and I love it. I have always enjoyed upgrading and personalizing my vehicles so I’m really into this new project. Thanks in advance.

Luke from Vermont
Quadruple bypass.
 

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1983 CX650C
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Oh man I don’t know if I have the confidence to do a quad bypass in my driveway. I hope that I don’t have to go that far. Just looking at the parts list seems like acquiring all them all would be a major chore. I will give the cam chain a peak and keep my fingers crossed.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Don't worry about working on the engine in your driveway; Unlike your jeep's, the bike's engine is small & light enough that you can put it on your workbench ;-)
But as Mike said, check the condition of the camchain before you even think about opening the engine.

Re Rae-San ignition: You probably don't need to replace the original ignition system if it is still working well.
Without knowing which model and model year your bike is, your bike could have the earlier Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) or the later Transistor amplifier Ignition (TI). The CDI on these bikes is powered & triggered by special windings on the alternator stator and a lot of people who have no other reason to take the engine apart replace the CDI with an alternate system if one of those windings fails (the TI is powered by the charging system).

BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.

I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
 

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From post #1 "I am planning on upgrading my CX650c ". That is why we like to have bike info in profile or signature line: so that readers do not have to scroll back looking for that information.
 

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Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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17,018 Posts
My brain must have been fried from being out in the sun on the bike today ;-)

OK, a CX650C has TI so unless something catastrophic happens or you just like to make changes for the sake of making changes the original ignition system will probably be just fine.

BTW: Speaking of making changes, the best advice anyone can give you about customizing/upgrading any vehicle is to get it safe & reliable in more or less original condition and use it for a while before you start making any changes so it can tell you what changes it needs to make it do what you want/need better. That approach almost always results in something you actually want to keep and use but making changes based on style or on what someone else (who may or may not really understand how the changes affect the way it works) has done often results in a piece of expensive yard art that you can't stand sitting on for more than a few minutes and might even be dangerous.
 

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1983 CX650C
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The famous Sidecar Bob! Your posts have been so helpful, thanks for responding. I think I have all the information in my profile now. I will go through the service procedures and replacing any rotten rubber I can find.

The Murray’s carbs and new exhaust system are definitely upgrades I want to do. I would like more power and for it to have a little more rumble. I won’t plan on doing any more upgrades for now.
 

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1983 CX650C
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Don't worry about working on the engine in your driveway; Unlike your jeep's, the bike's engine is small & light enough that you can put it on your workbench ;-)
But as Mike said, check the condition of the camchain before you even think about opening the engine.

Re Rae-San ignition: You probably don't need to replace the original ignition system if it is still working well.
Without knowing which model and model year your bike is, your bike could have the earlier Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) or the later Transistor amplifier Ignition (TI). The CDI on these bikes is powered & triggered by special windings on the alternator stator and a lot of people who have no other reason to take the engine apart replace the CDI with an alternate system if one of those windings fails (the TI is powered by the charging system).

BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and the Previous Owners may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.

I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
I started going through everything today. The rubber seems to be in good shape. I started another discussion for my headlight which is driving me crazy but waiting on parts for this project I have time to mess with it. I’m trying to find the port to look at the cam chain, is it behind the radiator?
 

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1983 CX650C
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sorry did not realize you already bought a set from Murray. If you want to sell the OEM set shoot me a Pm
One stock carb is leaking gas not horribly but definitely a consistent drip and I can’t seam to find a rebuild kit that will get here within a month so I just decided to pull the trigger on the Murray’s since it’s something I wanted to do anyway. I may end up selling the stock carbs, not sure yet.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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BTW: Look through the FSM (you did download it, didn't you?) and you will see that the bike has 3 caps like Phreak described.
  • The one on the right side of the motor near the rear is the port for looking at the timing marks on the flywheel (this is the one you put a mirror or camera into to look at the camchain).
  • The one on the front of the engine just below the rad is for access to a bolt in the end of the crankshaft used for turning the engine with a wrench when you are checking the valve clearances and things like that.
  • The other one is on the final drive (rear end of the swingarm, next to the wheel) for checking the level of the gear oil in the FD and adding oil if needed).
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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The float bowl gasket shouldn't leak but the fuel level in the bowls shouldn't be high enough for fuel to leak there either. The problem is likely either a leak higher up (perhaps from the pipe that carries fuel between the carbs) or a float valve that isn't closing properly, either because of deposits in the seat or perhaps some debris between the needle and seat.

To find the source of any fluid leak, clean the area thoroughly and then powder it (talcum, flour or just about any fine powder will work). After a while you will be able to follow the tracks in the powder to the actual source of the leak.
 

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1983 CX650C
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16 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The timing port is on the rear right of the motor. It is a round cover about 40 mm across with a 17 mm hex.
Okay I was able to look at the cam chain tensioner today. My camera is pretty bad so I the pictures are pretty bad sorry. I think based on something you said in another post about looking at the coil spacing my chain in pretty shot? It looks like the spacing is double the thickness of the coil material.
 
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