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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I currently have my engine out of the bike. Coolant system and front and back cover are removed.
Do I have to remove flywheel and cam chain etc to get the pistons out??
Or can I just remove clutch basket and gearbox then remove pistons?

I want to do the least work possible. I’ve already instaled new cam chain so don’t want to have to take it all apart again if I do t have to.
 

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[QUOTE="Dicky1234, post: 1115859, member: 56096"
I want to do the least work possible.
[/QUOTE]
Why are you changing the piston rings? What diagnostic procedure suggested that was necessary? Unless there is some reason to do this I'd suggest leaving the pistons and rings be.
 
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1983 cx650c
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From what I've read on here you will have to get good quality head gaskets and retorque them after starting the restored motor. Pistons are also mostly unavailable from previous threads,,, good luck😊
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys

I’ll put it back together. I’ve got new cam chain and everything is timed up correctly.

I’m installing a Rae San ignition 12 volt conversion kit so I will have advance from that. Will no longer be using CDI.

G8 stator installed replacing cdi stator.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Make sure you re-torque the heads until the gaskets stop compressing. See Joe Hovel's comments on why this is necessary now even though the manual doesn't say it is

BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year (NOT year first registered if that's what your paperwork shows) to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
 
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