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Discussion Starter #702
Small movement on this.

An OEM petcock came up for auction on ebay and I won it at a low price as I was the only bidder.

I wasn't too happy with the Chinese petcock I'd fitted as some have a reduced flow compared to OEM. The thingy has miks to feed. :)

Comparing the two it seems that maybe the Chinese one wasn't too bad. I've seen them with much smaller outlets than this one but the outletis still a little smaller than OEM regardless.

199432
199433


OEM is the duller one with the longer straw.

Looking at mufflers again soon. I have a plan for the ones currently fitted which calls for cutting them in half, gutting them to make more room and making bypass baffles from a larger diameter pipe.

Or I can just use the setof harley mufflers I picked up cheap as an option. They are off a 1585 cc harley so should flow well enough for a CX.
 

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Discussion Starter #703 (Edited)
I got the itch today so went and got a drum of fuel and put some fuel in the tank for the first time and he started up readily.

It's not without its teething problems but I'll work my way through them.

With a number plate deceitfully installed I took it for a ride. It runs well but breaks up on larger throttle openings.

It was appallingly loud with no baffles fitted so I fitted the last set of baffles I'd made and was running on the test bike before fitting the sportster mufflers.

Now it sounded less likely to bring the police around. :)

The problem with breaking up on larger throttle openings persists.

I think it is too rich on the top end. Even with irridium plugs the plugs are sooty.

Will also try a run with the air filters removed .... just in case.

Of course, the issue could be the raesan ignition - but this was already verified on the test bike. The only unproven element here is the coilovers.

I swapped the jumpers from stock pickups to hall and this made no difference so it's not a failing pickup. Also tried a different advance curve. Ditto.



Aside from this niggle to be chased down the thingy is nice to ride. The bars and rearset pegs being where I'd want them in relation to each other and feels almost 'normal'.

I had a CX here several days ago with clipons and rearsets. that I enjoyed much less with a test ride. To be blunt, it felt awful.

Those rearsets are on sale on ebay. With exchange and postage they are $1050 OZ $ with the optional brake light switch. They work well, except for the tacked on brake light switch which won't self cancel as there is no positive return spring to return the pedal and cancel the switch. A dreadful $300 option which should have been designed in at the outset. This thing is an afterthought and shows. It's a $10 microswitch, a 1 x 3 cm piece of aluminium strap, 2 drilled and threaded holes and the screws for same. I will reengineer this when it comes back for a triple and a few other things.

Rant over.

I also had a coolant leak from the radiator but think it was just the hardened rubber washer on the drain plug. Have fitted it with an O ring and will monitor. It's had coolant in it for months without leaking a drop - so it took pressure to leak.

The fuel guage works for temp as intended but I may yet play with the resistance to get the reading more in the middle of the gauges bar graph rather than nearly at the top at normal temperature. The speedo seems accurate and rock steady and the tach appears to work appropriately.

Seat could do with a little more padding.
 

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Discussion Starter #704
Problem sorted .... and it was my own fault.....

I won't bore you with all the tests and troubleshooting but the issue was with my repair to the kill function on the raesan ignition. The wires had come off of this so I 'repaired' the unit to get the kill functional. As my raesan is basically 2 seperate ignitions with a combined power source I wired the kill to both sides. I dn't know what this was actually doing but it was the reason for the bad running. Crossfiring?

I had completely forgotten about doing this as it was a while back now.

Anyway, except for needing to reconfigure the kill function the carbs have been put back to Murrays 'as delivered' default proving that they were great to begin with.

I have t say, with the Murrays carbs, the raesan ignition, ported heads, 2 into 2 exhausts and a 2.5 degree retarded cam sprocket the thingy is a complete animal. It flies.

I am stoked.

The spark plugs will tell me if I can raise the needles for a little more power and the raesan has 2 more aggressive advance curves than the one I am currently running so there's still scope for more. ;)
 

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I love it when a plan comes together, glad you found the ignition issue. Good work Mark!

thumbsup.png
 

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Congrats on sorting out the trouble. Good you reviewed things and found it/figured out what was happening.
David
 

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Discussion Starter #707
Thanks Dfresh and Rafster.

The shakedowns continue. About 150 kms worth so far.

The chinese rear brake light switch failed. This was the second of 3 I bought that has failed. replaced this time with an original Honda one of unknown origin. It's likely ancient as it had two steel half nuts to fit rather than the single push to fit lug nut used now. I used this from the chinese one so it contributed something.

A clean up and new terminals and it's as good as new.

I think my radiator leak may be a tiny pin hole in the front of the lower tank. Still monitoring, but I think I've found it. If so I will tap it down a little, JB weld, sand and respray.

All else seems good.
 

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Discussion Starter #711
Well .... I made a pressure tester and found the problem. Two tiny cracks and a small leak at the base of the lower hose spigot.

199835


I don't know about using a soldering gun, my 80 watt soldering iron wouldn't even come close to making enough heat. After all, a rad is a big heat sink. So I pulled out the big gun. I don't know how many watts this thing is but it could almost heat a small room.

199836


Anyhow, i still had to preheat the tank with a butane torch..

it may not be the prettiest work but it passed leak testing at the cap pressure of 12 PSI and also wire brushing, filing and sanding so I think it'll be OK.

Rad repainted and refitted to the thingy but not ridden yet.

199837
 

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Discussion Starter #713
Soldering is a skill I struggle with. This is actually my first successful metalwork type soldering.

I tried the torch alone. Didn't go well.
 

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Score! I love it when a plan comes together...
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its just about the right flux and a little bit of practice
i learned lead fill body work from the old guy in my grandfathers garage
they still used it and he hated bondo lol
another older gentleman in the machine shop taught me how to
pour and scrape babbit bearings as they still routinely did them

now i have dated myself
 

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That's OK, I took a night school intro to bodywork course a few decades ago and the teacher told us that when he started out they didn't have dollies so they would remove the bent body part and take it outside to hammer it against the concrete curb. Then they would fill anything they couldn't hammer out with lead and they always kept an old can of primer that was never stirred so they could dig out the thick part at the bottom for spot filler.
He also told us that if we had to use more than a few spoonfuls of filler we hadn't done enough hammering.
 
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