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Discussion Starter #1
Thought it was about time I started a build thread on this one. I have had a build thread on it on the Oz site for the past few years. As you can tell from that last statement it has been slow going. I spread my time that I can get in the shed between several bikes, both projects and runners and can't always get out there as often as I'd like.

But this is where I'm at with this one now.

thingy batbox 050.JPG thingbat3 002.JPG thingbat3 003.JPG thingbat3 004.JPG thingbat3 005.JPG

I've made the airboxless sidecover mounts and this is the battery box that also mounts the starter solenoid, reg/rec, labrynth breather and a couple of other bits. I've made allowance for a full size AGM battery but any battery can be fitted with a change of liner.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The ignition box has also been made so it can hold any ignition unit by changing liners. I have a prototype hybrid Raesan ignition that I will be using. The bike will have some redundancy for reliabilities sake as the ignition I will be using can be switched between hall and stock pulsers by moving a jumper. I ran this configuration on the test bike and it worked fine either way.

The ignition box will have a clear acrylic cover so the setup/diagnostic LEDs can be seen by just lifting the seat.

thingbat3 007.JPG

This has since been welded in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
These are the CB750/900 front brakes the bike will be running. Discs purchased locally on gumtree, rebuilt calipers bought from forum member Flyin Elvis. thingbat3 001.JPG Drilling by Ralph {Hamilton}

Note that this is a dry build. The bike was a complete dunger and I would guess a non runner for many years. A head had also been robbed from the motor but the motor has an open circuit 5/9 so I'm guessing that's why it was taken off the road. The motor rotates smoothly and passes the crude rod bearing test. It will be coming apart soon.

When the frame mods and seat are finished it will then be pulled down for the real build to start. Seat will likely be in fibreglass.

Unfortunately my computer crashed a while back and I've lost many photos including the fuel tank mods. The bike is a 78 fitted with a 500C tank but the tank has been moved back and lowered as much as possible. Instead of the front of the tank being over the top of the rad shroud it is now behind the rad {no shroud on this one} and lower than the top of the rad. This IMHO gives the bike a good line. The bike has full bar clearance both sides with no need to alter the lock to lock. The bars {and my thumbs} don't touch the tank on either lock. Rear hump is the rear part of a rusty 500C tank ..... just to be different.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've pulled these pics of the fuel tank mods and placement from my other thread here.

Basically, I have fitted a custom tank to a standard frame but rather than using the front mounting points and extending the tanks rear mounting flange to reach that of the frame {which won't fit anyway, more on this later} I have removed the front mounts from the frame entirely fitting the new ones in a position that would allow me to use the factory rear mount as intended.

This is where the rear of the tank had to be put on a sandbag and selectively battered until it would fit. :) It has since been pressure tested OK. It developed no rattlies after the process so must be pretty rust free. The tank is also as low as I can get it and the lower front is behind the top tank of the radiator. It is so low I have a small rebate ground into the weld seam to clear the upper radiator hos and clears the valve covers by mm.

After mounting the tank I notice you could see straight under it from the front since it was now sitting 3 or 4 inches back from the fusebox instead of nearly up against it as on a stock 500C. So I cut, beat and welded in a filler panel for the front of the tank creating a slightly different look. thintank1.PNG thingtank2.PNG

thingtank3.PNG

thingbar1.PNG thingbar2.PNG
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The bars shown are those I'll be using and this is the full lock clearance I get with the setback tank. They'll of course, need refinishing. I have much put away for this bike. ;)

thingtank4.PNG thingtank5.PNG

The tank is shown here under etch primer. It has since been through the rest of the prep process and is a final 600 rubdown away from paint ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No. the bike is being built to junkyard formula for the most part. Those bars were on the bike when I got it I've just flipped them over. I did try a few other similar sets the same way but none worked as well.

You need this type of bend {obviously} for this to work but you are after the lowest rise for the least drop when flipped .... unless you are an orangutan as the reach starts to get a bit far.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I need to get some better pictures of the tail unit. This is made from the rear of another 500C tank and part of a rear guard from a CM250.

The rear hump is held on at the front by 2 6 mm bolts through the spreader and a third at the back that also forms part of the mount for the modified fender liner. The liner had to have its front lengthened {twice. I cut it twice and it was still too short ;)} This had to be cut off before the rear mount that rises to the original seat mount as I didn't need that protrusion in the way. Half of the boss for the CDI plugs was in the way and had to be cut out and the resultant hole filled. Ditto the guide for the tail light wiring on the left side.

thingarch 012.JPG thingarch 001.JPG thingarch 008.JPG thingy batbox 070.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It is a little lower than that now. The photo isn't particularly current. Since that photo was taken I've lowered it maybe an inch - the most possible.

It looks better when the back is not jacked up on the centrestand too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I put the back end of this back together yesterday so there'd be less bits floating around the shed while I go through the motor, which was then pulled out. ;) I took a couple of pics of where the rear is at at present.

I knew the motor was dirty but it took me all afternoon today to get it clean enough for the teardown, which will be next weekend unless I get a chance to get to it sooner.

This motor, though it had been robbed of a head appears to have expired from a blown stator. The 5/9 is out of spec with low resistance and the 8/9 is open circuit. That's OK, I have a G8 stator for it along with Raesan hall effects. It will be running both hall and stock pulsers. {switchable from one to the other.} I have the usual quad bypass parts for it along with rings and a selection of engine bearings {thanks VC3}. Also complete seals, O rings and gaskets and an oilpump chain.

I have a NOS 'A' rocker and 2 Bs. I know where there is another A and will buy this if it is still available when I scrape the funds together. I have new rocker pins. I have a new camshaft, front support and tach worm but need to find out if this is 415 or MA1. If MA1 it goes into this motor. If 415 it goes into the Ozdeluxe motor.

I'm hoping the basic motor is as good as it seems to be.

thingengout 008.JPG thingengout 009.JPG thingengout 011.JPG
 

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Nice to see your stuff, Mark! I assume you are married...........
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I couldn't resist anymore so I've just been out and put the motor on the engine bench. Then the engine hanger fell off followed by the front cover.

I can't see anything much I don't like in the way of sparklies or anything other than the expected trashed oilpump chain {I don't think the front cover has been off before but the quality silicon job tells me the back has} and evidence of many late or missed oil changes. This thing is as filthy inside as it was on the outside. :)

Will finish ripping it to bits tomorrow.

Oh, and Ramp, Mrs. Phreak and I have been together for 35 years. ;)

Have ordered the last 'A' rocker I needed for this one and it's just been posted from the US. I won't mention that it's cost me nearly as much as the other 3 rockers did ... but at least I have a full set for this bike now.
 
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