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Ran across this post. Thought you might find it interesting.







Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

*Don't forget the April 2007 "Machinist's Workshop" magazine comparison test.*

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*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *

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*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*



None ...................... 516 pounds

WD-40 ................... 238 pounds

PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds

Liquid Wrench ........ 127 pounds

Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds

ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds



*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.*

*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. *

**
 

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i might just have to make that up i wonder how it works on parts that are heat welded like exhaust pipes and like the h-box
 

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It should work fine but some tips.



Always be patient and wire brush off any loose rust to give it a fighting change.



Use gravity if possible e.g support a part so whatever fluid you use can,"Sit In" a joint and not fall out even if it's a fine joint and wait.



Use plenty of directional heat.



I bought one of these while ago dead cheap high heat source.Not expensive but couldn't be without it now,



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Torch-Cigar-C...4345?pt=UK_Collectables_Tobacciana_Smoking_LE



no you can't weld or braze with it but you can silver solder but it's directional heat makes it superb for hitting seized nuts and bolts without heating up the surrounding area.



Tip:when trying to unfreeze bolts apply above solution with a small pencil brush after a wire brushing,heat well and the tighten the bolt 1st just a little to crack the seal.Then undo a little,tighten,undo,tighten all little by little with loads of WD type spray.This lessens the chance of the old bolts/nuts sheering by trying to get them out with big movements.
 

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tighten the bolt 1st just a little to crack the seal.Then undo a little,tighten,undo,tighten all little by little with loads of WD type spray.This lessens the chance of the old bolts/nuts sheering by trying to get them out with big movements.


thats what i do all the time people always tell me that i am tightening the bolt and i tell them why and then they try it and are surprised that it works
 
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