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Discussion Starter #1
I had to repaint my tank due to it getting chipped and some small spots of rust. I used spraymax brand for primer, color, and clear. The primer and clear where 2k but the color was 1k. It was going well up until the clear, now I’m worried that I’ve ruined the whole thing and will have to start from scratch.

After applying the color I let it dry for about an hour and then put the clear on, but after finishing with the clear it started bubbling! Now a day later it’s got a bunch of small little bubbles all over. I’m guessing I did t let the color coat dry enough since it’s a 1k? Not only does it hav bubbles but it’s soft and can be dented with a nail.

So my question is, do I need to sand it all off back to the primer? If I let it cure and sand it smooth can I salvage the color and just respray the clear coat or will the color coat never fully cure? Thoughts and opinions welcome, I’d really like to be able to keep the color because of both time and money spent.
 

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I'm not an expert. Although, I did paint my CX500C.

I got all the compatible primer, colors and clear at an automotive paint store. The guys were great. They set me up with all the matching items.

I think you may need to go back to bare steel. Make a trip to an auto paint store. They probably have the equipment to measure and blend the color you like plus will set you up with all the compatible coats.
 

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Assuming it's a curing issue, rather than compatibility, I think you could sand it back to the color. Spray another coat of color for even finish. Then, let it sit well beyond the curing time to ensure good adhesion of the new coat before spraying the clear.
I haven't done much vehicle painting, but in general, I've found that spray acrylics on metal take a while to fully harden.

Randall
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the suggestions, I think I’ll try to sand the clear off and redo the color. I’m pretty sure I just didn’t let the color dry enough, after I posted I read some more info and it sounds like the color has solvents in it that need to evaporate. The bubbles were those solvents coming up through the clear coat. This is only the second time I’ve painted a tank so I’m still learning, luckily the last paint job lasted well over 5 years.
 

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I only work in acrylic and can't comment much on the interaction between acrylic and 2 pack.

But this little I do know.

Allowing full cure of colour coats before recoating with 2 pack clear often leads to sloughing. This is when the clear separates from the colour coats. This can be anything from some silvering to a full moult.

This isn't your issue.

In fact, I was recommended to do much as you've done for the reason outlined above.

But I think your issue here is that the lacquer coat was still gassing out. Laying the clear coats trapped the gas and it made bubbles. The trapped solvent then attacks the clear coat.

You'll need to adjust your recoat times

As you rub back you should be able to tell what is a stable substrate to recoat and you'll need to at least go back to the colour coats.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So from what you've all said here and what I've read in other places, if I'm understanding things correctly a 1K spray can has solvents in it that need to air dry. So if I spray over it too soon the solvents cause the bubbles I experienced. If I let it go too long and then spray over it that could cause it to peel/flake off? So I should give it "some" time to dry but not excessive time to dry.

Does that sound right? Would giving it a day be too short? I sent an email to SprayMax but haven't heard back from them and their site isn't great so the directions are not very clear at all, AND there are NO directions on their cans.

My honda will have a Toyota color coat, 218 "attitude black metallic". If it hadn't been for the bubbles it looked very good, lets hope my new plan works, I'm missing far too much riding time doing this!
 

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Your question is a very valid one, but one I can't help you with.

I avoid the whole thing. I lay acrylic lacquer clearcoat over acrylic lacquer.

My gun has a 1.2 mm nozzle. I'm told that for 2 pack you need a 1 mm nozzle. My gun is old and finding parts is difficult. Eventually I will buy a gun with a 1 mm nozzle.

The upshot of the above is that when I change over I will be spraying 2 pack colour coats AND clear.

It's not something I want to mess with.
 

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I sent an email to SprayMax but haven't heard back from them and their site isn't great so the directions are not very clear at all, AND there are NO directions on their cans.
If you Google the model number on the can, you should be able to find the tech sheet for the product. I'm at work and their site is blocked here, otherwise I would pull one up as an example. But I have printouts here from their website for several of their products that cover all those details.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for that, I finally found the info I needed. I'm still not sure I understand it though. The directions from the factory are:
1. apply 1st coat, allow to flash off
2. apply 3-4 coats, allow to flash off
3. final finish - apply 1k or 2k clear coat

So does "flash off" mean it is dry to the touch or that it no longer looks "wet"?
Does step 2 mean that I apply 3 or 4 coats all at the same time?
For the last step, same question as the first....what does "flash off" mean and how will I know when to apply the clear?
 

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1 First coat is laid down thin to create tooth for subsequent coats to aid adhesion and wet cling.

2 - I assume that they are saying to paint these coats wet on wet.

Just keep going around the tank. by the time you come back to the starting point it should be ready to go again. Lay medium coats followed by a final double header coat to build maximum inherent gloss.

3 - flash off means to appear dry. You can see the paint change colour as this happens. Given your recent experience I would leave it 1 hour.
 

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Flashing off is allowing enough of the solvents to evaporate so that the next coat won't run. Flash time is generally about 10-20 minutes and is often specified by the paint's spec sheet. If you apply subsequent coats after the previous ones flash but before they cure that the layers bond chemically into one thick coating.

A word about drying vs curing:
Drying is when the solvents have evaporated. Generally, if another coat is applied later the solvent will soften the surface and bond to it chemically. Nitrocellulose lacquer as traditionally used on furniture and musical instruments is a good example of this; The solvents in fresh coats applied even years later will dissolve the surface of the old material and bond the new coat to the old chemically.
Curing is a chemical change that occurs in coatings as the solvents evaporate (or in the case of 2 part products, as the chemicals in the parts react with each other). When another coat is applied over a previous coat that has been allowed to cure it cannot dissolve the surface to bond chemically so you sill need to scuff the surface to provide a mechanical bond.

Some coatings will react with previous layers if they have been allowed to dry past the flash time but not fully cured (I suspect this is your problem). Because of this many paints specify recoat times, generally given in the format of "recoat within xx minutes or after xx hours" (30 minutes and 48 hours is fairly common).
 

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I had to repaint my tank due to it getting chipped and some small spots of rust. I used spraymax brand for primer, color, and clear. The primer and clear where 2k but the color was 1k. It was going well up until the clear, now I’m worried that I’ve ruined the whole thing and will have to start from scratch.

After applying the color I let it dry for about an hour and then put the clear on, but after finishing with the clear it started bubbling! Now a day later it’s got a bunch of small little bubbles all over. I’m guessing I did t let the color coat dry enough since it’s a 1k? Not only does it hav bubbles but it’s soft and can be dented with a nail.

So my question is, do I need to sand it all off back to the primer? If I let it cure and sand it smooth can I salvage the color and just respray the clear coat or will the color coat never fully cure? Thoughts and opinions welcome, I’d really like to be able to keep the color because of both time and money spent.
I’am a automotive painter seems to you may have not put the correct clear hardner or not in the correct amount needed to catalyze the clear , you will have to start over . As any more material put over the uncatalyzed clear coat will fail , bummer
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Seriously, the gods hate me. I had the tank looking amazing, clear, glossy coat over sparkling black color, it was incredible looking. The absolute best paint job I've ever done on anything. Even bought an electric buffer to make it look perfect. Probably spent easily $200 total on the paint and equipment. Time finally comes to put it back on the bike, RIDING TOMORROW!!!!..........................nope.

I dropped the f*&^ing thing right on the driveway from waist height. Big dent right in the front corner, paint chipped all to hell, even a little exposed metal. WHY??????

SO...now that I know what I'm doing the next version should look even better, except for the big flipping dent. FML

201507
 

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That's enough to make a grown man cry, did the same thing with my CX 650 E 's tank. Though I had put it in a safe place while working on the choke cable, well about five minutes later falls off table and lands against the wheel studs of wifes dune buggy. Now put tanks on a towel on the floor away from any objects.
 
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