overheating problems

6547 Views 38 Replies 12 Participants Last post by mrabbazaba, Jan 20, 2011

sararose

Discussion Starter · Aug 23, 2010

It's summer now, and my 83 honda cx650 has been teetering on the verge of overheating. I checked the fluid level and it is fine. My question is, how do I check to make sure the fan is working? The electrical connection seems fine, both wires are plugged in, but how do I know for sure? Also, there is a small leak from the water pump housing, I got a new replacement gasket, but I've been putting off changing it because I have to drop the engine to get to it. Could that be the reason it's getting so hot?

Thanks

21 - 39 of 39 Posts

mnutz

· #21 · Aug 31, 2010

Blindstitch said:
http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=525

Awesome BS - Is there anything that you dont know??

So, what does this mean? Is my cooling system somehow over pressurizing? I rarely see any activity from my coolant reserve bottle.

OH!! And, when I pulled off my carbs so I could get to the water pump cover, there was some white goop in the tube going to/from the bottom of the air box. Thoughts? Could this have something to do with all this? Is my cooling system clogged with something?

Blindstitch

· #22 · Aug 31, 2010

Michael said:
Awesome BS - Is there anything that you dont know??

So, what does this mean? Is my cooling system somehow over pressurizing? I rarely see any activity from my coolant reserve bottle.

OH!! And, when I pulled off my carbs so I could get to the water pump cover, there was some white goop in the tube going to/from the bottom of the air box. Thoughts? Could this have something to do with all this? Is my cooling system clogged with something?

There is a decent amount that I don't know but many other members on this forum easily cover that.

And there are others that don't like my help.

But in your case some over flow bottles don't see much action. Mine doesn't but I check the antifreeze in the radiator once a month just to be sure.

The weep hole is a defense mechanism. Think of it as a tube covered by a soft sponge and a harder sponge. The harder sponge would be the mechanical seal. When the mechanical seal fails the coolant pours into the tube. The soft sponge on the other side is actually a soft rubber seal and under any pressure will flow fluid through it. The weep hole would be a hole in the tube to release the pressure so coolant doesn't flow into the oil side of the engine.

It's a pretty slick simple design. In fact every once in a while it saves us money because if a bike sits up to long the mechanical seal might not work right so coolant will drip from the weep hole for a while till the seal starts working right.

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Blindstitch

· #23 · Aug 31, 2010

Michael said:
OH!! And, when I pulled off my carbs so I could get to the water pump cover, there was some white goop in the tube going to/from the bottom of the air box. Thoughts? Could this have something to do with all this? Is my cooling system clogged with something?

This probably isn't anything to worry about but you are going to want to drain the hoses from the air box. Once a year this should be done. The airbox likes crank case gasses but water and other stuff will build up in there.

mnutz

· #24 · Aug 31, 2010

Anything in particular that can be used to flush all that out?

Shep

· #25 · Aug 31, 2010

Michael said:
Anything in particular that can be used to flush all that out?

UK CXs

I remove the Air-filter and it's small pedestal and pipe.I then put a bit of washing up liquid in there and push it around with a paint brush and Then boil a couple of kettles of water and pour them in red-hot and clean around with the paint brush.Let sit for a few mins and then remove the bungs from the overflow pipes and flush through again with a hot water.Then speed up drying with a bit of toilet tissue.

HTH

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Blindstitch

· #26 · Aug 31, 2010

As long as the hoses aren't plugged you shouldn't need to do anything but drain them. If you do use a chemical use something that isn't flammable. Or some simple hot water and dish soap.

bear351c

· #27 · Sep 1, 2010

Fixed the overheating issue??

Another thing to check, is that you actually have the right thermostat, or that you actually HAVE a thermostat. Some engines run hotter without one, because the flow is too fast thru the radiator, that it doesn't have enough time to cool.

mnutz

· #28 · Sep 2, 2010

Well, I havent had a chance to work on it yet. Been too busy with classes right now (Next to last semester of college - FINALLY).

So, BS, I guess my question (Now that I know what the weep hole does) is: How can I fix it? I really dont care to be riding down the road with coolant spewing out...

Replace the mechanical seal? (As people were saying before... Damn Im stubborn!)

Blindstitch

· #29 · Sep 3, 2010

If riding it doesn't clear up the issue and only makes it worse then your only choice is replacing the mechanical seal. But since you don't want to dig deep only dig as far as you need which is Sheps in bike engine fit.

Should be only one day down and less time removing parts and dropping the engine.

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355

BikerMike

· #30 · Sep 3, 2010

On my 650C i have noticed that my fun will kick on when the temp guage reaches about the middle of the bold white line.. i've never had it get close to the red. This could be just a differance in guages or my thermo switch just kicks the fan on sooner...whatever the case i am happy that it all is working corectly. It does make sense that the hotter the motor runs, the life of the stator will be shortened. How much would a new thermo switch cost????

Shep

· #31 · Sep 3, 2010

I've posted before that I think the 650s fan switches in too late.I think Honda got it wrong.If I owned a CX650 I would replace the fan switch with one that cuts in better like the temp switches I use on my CX500 Electric Fan conversions(See sig).

However yours seems to be cutting in better than most CX650s.It's been posted many times in the Australian forums that they believe the hotter running temps of the 650s lead to premature Stator break down and possible starter clutch problems.

I'd be tempted to look into fitting an oil cooler as some customizations have done,but that's just me.

All the vehicles I've ever owned always run/ran on the nominal mark and if they don't I want to know why.

My 10 penn'th.

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mnutz

· #32 · Sep 13, 2010

Ok, so new development!

I just noticed that the thing leaks even if it has not been, nor is at the time, running! Could that still be the weep hole? I am starting to think that maybe I somehow screwed up getting that gasket on (which....how can you screw THAT up??)

bear351c

· #33 · Sep 14, 2010

If its coming from the "weep" hole, then the mechanical seal is kaput !

mnutz

· #34 · Sep 22, 2010

Ok, so I am looking for part number 5 on this diagram, correct?

http://www.hondaofflorence.com/fich...CYCLES&dc=858&[email protected]+C.D.I.+PULSER

Why, oh why does it have to cost so much??

Shep

· #35 · Sep 22, 2010

Michael said:
Ok, so I am looking for part number 5 on this diagram, correct?

http://www.hondaofflorence.com/fich...CYCLES&dc=858&[email protected]+C.D.I.+PULSER

Why, oh why does it have to cost so much??

some one on this forum may still have some cheaper substitutes but if not you can use a Yamaha seal,

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-11H-12438-10-00.html

But with caution when removing the rubber seal from the cup.Patience and not force is required.It's not hard,

http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Mseal.html

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mnutz

· #36 · Sep 22, 2010

Is this a repair that can be completed without dropping the engine? Will I have the room to get to it by just removing the carbs?

Shep

· #37 · Sep 22, 2010

Michael said:
Is this a repair that can be completed without dropping the engine? Will I have the room to get to it by just removing the carbs?

Yes

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wmw

· #38 · Sep 22, 2010

BikerMike said:
On my 650C i have noticed that my fun will kick on when the temp guage reaches about the middle of the bold white line.. i've never had it get close to the red. This could be just a differance in guages or my thermo switch just kicks the fan on sooner...whatever the case i am happy that it all is working corectly. It does make sense that the hotter the motor runs, the life of the stator will be shortened. How much would a new thermo switch cost????

If yours is kicking in about the middle I would be happy with it and leave it as is. To answer your question though, I picked up a thermo fan switch marketed for an accord/civic (p/n 37760-PB2-003). The first (and last) portion of the part number was the same, so of course it worked without any problem. The middle portion of the part number is just the model designation. The honda motorcycle part number was 37760-MC7-003 which is for the electric fan model CX/GL models.

mrabbazaba

· #39 · Jan 20, 2011

I had this same problem and found out my gauge was fubar but now the guy before me had tried to "fix" the waterpump on this bike and I'm not sure he put it back together right. I need to know what goes on first, the ceramic washer or the rubber seal with the spring. The rest all seems right according to the link provided but due to the terminology I'd like to verify what order these parts go in. I think he had them backwards or maybe I need some sealant? I have 2 diffrent mechanical seals and both give me the same leak out of my weap hole so I'm guessing he had something backwards.

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