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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
MY 1982 CX500TURBO is overheating and smoking from exhaust and front of engine after running and idling for about 10 minutes.A/F.oil and filter,coolant(50/50)all new and at proper levels.thermostat was taken out and tested good.coolant flows through hoses and pipes.left side chrome pipe gets really hot after awhile.coolant seems to be flowing faster by the water pump outlet in rear of engine.this bike has been sitting a longg time before i got it and ive done alot of work to get it running so i dont want to quit now,i want to be able to drive this beautiful bike soon but i want to make sure it operates at full potential.the bike has 7749mi and is all original.im excited to fix this overheating and smoking then finish the brakes and ride!
ANY HELP WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!
 

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Hi mate, I'm useless to you as I have naturally aspirated CXs .... but will move this thread to the turbo board where those who do know will spot it.

Hope you get all the help you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i wish it was that easy. but blown h/g eliminated
smooke s building up from around turbo area.i do not have much experience w turbo's
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it sits and idles for a few minutes then i rev it up at a steady pace of no more than 2800rpm and it seems like a light gray smoke then it gets hotter and hotter and by the ten minute mark its darkk gray, and purges of smoke come out slowly from the front inbetween radiator and turbo.....please kepp in mind this bike has been in a garage for 20 some years before i got it and was not running.is something not lubricated or needs to be?its not electrical smoke.it smells like oil burning and its not steam coming from muffler
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
where would oil leak or seep around turbo?i looked at this bike for over an hour looking for leaks of any kind running and while off
 

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There is a short oil pipe behind the turbo that leaks and puts oil on the exhaust, if the short rubber pipe hasn't failed check the metal stub it fits on from the oil gallery for cracks.
 

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is that the oil supply line to the turbo bearings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
im going to check that hose and pipe on turbo tmw but that exhaust shroud with the phillps head scews are darn tight and even though i used a impact screwdriver with hammer it still wouldnt come out,any ideas n how to get them off without breaking or stripping?
 

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Start spraying them with the best penetrant you have while you wait for answers. Spray it every time you go near it.
 

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You do not have to remove the header pipe heat shield to remove the header pipe.
 
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the oil feed hose, to the turbo, also has a couple of orings that will likely need replacing. did you get all the air out of the coolant, by burping it?
 

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There are two hoses back there and both fail by the 32 year mark. Most likely it is the small supply hose that is leaking. It is a long ordeal to replace, but you need to do it and do it right. You have to pull the fairing, the radiator, and the turbo to get back there. We have done a few threads about this in the past. My strongest suggestion is to NOT buy a big, stiff, length of 5000 psi braided hose, but something aimed for lighter duty. This has two purposes, the main is to bend easily in the tight confines and second that you be able to tighten the hose with a clamp. Thick, braided stuff is designed to be used with special clamps, not hose clamps - you want something softer that will seal with a mere hose clamp. Spec wise, it needs to handle 100 psi, 350 degrees F, and be suitable for oil. I would suggest going to one of those hydraulic stores close to the freeway to buy it, it should not cost more than a buck or two. The other hose is the drain hose, it takes minimal pressure, but again you want it flexible enough to tighten with a hose clamp. Keep in mind that if you are in the US that you are replacing metric hose with SAE size, so get it as close as possible.
 

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There are two hoses back there and both fail by the 32 year mark. Most likely it is the small supply hose that is leaking. It is a long ordeal to replace, but you need to do it and do it right. You have to pull the fairing, the radiator, and the turbo to get back there. We have done a few threads about this in the past. My strongest suggestion is to NOT buy a big, stiff, length of 5000 psi braided hose, but something aimed for lighter duty. This has two purposes, the main is to bend easily in the tight confines and second that you be able to tighten the hose with a clamp. Thick, braided stuff is designed to be used with special clamps, not hose clamps - you want something softer that will seal with a mere hose clamp. Spec wise, it needs to handle 100 psi, 350 degrees F, and be suitable for oil. I would suggest going to one of those hydraulic stores close to the freeway to buy it, it should not cost more than a buck or two. The other hose is the drain hose, it takes minimal pressure, but again you want it flexible enough to tighten with a hose clamp. Keep in mind that if you are in the US that you are replacing metric hose with SAE size, so get it as close as possible.
I have some of the correct hose if you need it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
edinir thank you that was very usefu i took the muffler off today and rebuilt all off my calipers,new pistons orings and new pads etc.i got lucky with the front master cylinder it cleared up and holds preesure and applies pressure.as for the rear master cylinder its not pumping fluid so i have to rebuild that unless anyone knows of easy was to fix...i am not overheating anymore simple burping and ttop off was needed.i have to still get the radiator off to get turbo off to change hoses to oil inlet on turbo.it doesnt look like a oil leak anymore it was just residual old oil burning off but i still want to replace old hoses with new.thank you for all the help guys.bike runs great and im about a week away til aon the road.im pretty darn excited.body will be out of paint shop this week and mufflers need repainted any suggestions on the paint type?
 
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