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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like i said new stator, not reving past 2500, when it tries it backfires and all that. not sure what to do.

I recently made the jump from classic cars to motorcycles. In my car experience, thats either terrible timing or the carbs are shot or clogged.

Can anyone help me? ASK ANY QUESTIONS.



I just wanna ride my Mottorrrcyyclee ;{



OH and its a 1978 CX500c thanks!!
 

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Welcome aboard. Take a few moments to update your profile with your location, and edit your signature line with the bike model and year so it stays on all posts. That makes it easier for us to help.



To your issue, we are going to need a bit more background, but generally, this sounds very fuel and air related. So carb cleaning, and checking for air leaks should be at the top of the list. The boots between the carbs and engine, and between the airbox might have cracks.



Clogged passages in the carbs, jets and emulsion tubes are very hurtful for these bikes.



Where did you get the stator?



Also, since this is a 78, check to see if there are 3 punch marks in a triangle on the engine block bottom by the serial number. If they are there, your bike has the refitted cam chain fix, otherwise that will also be an issue. But that shouldn't affect your question.



Joel in the Couve
 

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What did it do before the stator?



Check the plugs to see what they look like. I recently ran into some with broken ends causing a problem and that's the easiest to do first. Then open up the drain bolts on the bottom of the carbs. Fuel gets crappy after a while and it may have some condensation in it.



If that's good and fuel flow is moving then shoot straight to the carbs.



A quick way to say it is the carbs or not would be a shot of starting fluid to the air box. If it revs up then there's your problem. If not it's ignition based.



Coils don't usually have symptoms in your range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
AH thanks ill do that first thing when i get back from work tomarrow, i love taking apart carbs and such.



The stator was put in by the guy before me, he was a hot rod mechanic so he sold me the thing cheap theres alot of customs on it that he made.



What if the Stator is the wrong year? would that do anything? and if it IS the wrong year and thats messing things up could i chang ethe CDI to a different year? the year of the stator and it will run fine?

i read somewhere that the 78 and 79 had different stators than the rest and the timing is off by 20-40 degrees, is this true?



PS Ill find out tomorrow where that guy got the stator and what year and all that info, ALSO ill do the profile thing. this bike looks SICK love the Flying V style!! never going back to Inline again!! haha
 

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The stators for 78-81 are the same. An 82 is totally different and if that was used the bike wouldn't run at all so that's not it.



Is it all original looking? Doesn't have pod filters on it or anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can Use Photo Bucket to upload pictures here right?

We put ALOT of custom stuff on it, he dealed with the carbs not me i did everything else.



ALSO my wires are all opposite on all the lights there are exact opposite of what they originally were did i hook somthing up wrong? and where? THANKS for the help you guys rule
 

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I can Use Photo Bucket to upload pictures here right?

We put ALOT of custom stuff on it, he dealed with the carbs not me i did everything else.



ALSO my wires are all opposite on all the lights there are exact opposite of what they originally were did i hook somthing up wrong? and where? THANKS for the help you guys rule


Yeah you can use photobucket.



As for the lights did you use the wiring chart and hook the right colors to the right colors. I may be wrong but one side has orange wires and the other has blue
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·


Some dents im gonnatake care of





Got it home after work!





Decent picture of the engine and such!



And i didnt wire it i did all the linkage and stuff, where if the beggining of all the wires? like in an old car its the driving column you know what i mean?
 

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Stacks? That may potentially be a problem in itself. These bikes don't particularly like pod filters because of low restriction causing low vacuum. You have NO restriction to air flow.



Just for jollies you could duct tape off 2/3 to 3/4 of the stacks and see if this improves matters at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
REALLY? wow i did not even know that, so its possible that was the problem the whole time?? Likei said im a car guy first just makin the switch i thought they looked pretty bad ass on there haha ill try that when i get home thanks!
 

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Not saying this is THE problem but I think it may be a problem, god knows what jetting you'd need to have a hope of getting away with those. I actually doubt if they could be made to function properly at all.



THen there's the utter lack of filtration which in itself will shorten engine life dramatically.



They do look cool though...
 

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All as above.With being a cafe racer some one will have messed a whole lot with it so you need to back-track 1st to get as much back to normal as possible ignition and carburetion wise.



Don't worry too much about the Pod filters.If they have a detrimental effect it should only be between 1100 +/- 10%(Err on the higher side) and around 3,000 rpm which is not your present problem.





Let's hope he fitted the correct G47 stator.These have extra power windings that supply the CDI ignition box.I don't think the engine would fire at all if he had got it wrong though.



My 1st guess is that he has fitted incorrect Primary and Secondary main jets and or the put them in wrong in the Carbs.



The stock jets are 78 and 112.The 112(The Larger) always goes into the raised brass tower in the carbs,the smaller one always goes into the carb body.







With pods see above just always put the larger one in the Brass emulsion tube/tower.



There's a full section on these carbs here,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewforum.php?f=19&sid=3c51fefcc4432ea3f69d5a8e775df41a



Don(Blindstitch" knows some good sizes for Pod filter re-jetting
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was looking through the wires and me mixed up 2 wires.... the Pink and the yellow. on my CDI though the Yellow is on the right and pink on the left the ones going in.



so did he do that for a reason or what? im going to take apart my carbs tonight anndd check that, Maybe you guys will kill me for this but, What Oil does my engine take? just regular car oil? or is there special oil?
 

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I don't think the bike would even run if the yellow and pink wires were not hooked to the corresponding coil(yellow to the coil on the left side, pink to the coil on the right side).





From the factory the coil on the left side of the bike had a color matched yellow wire on it, and the right coil had a pink wire on it.

If someone switched the coils to the opposite sides of the bike(they are the same other than the color of the wires on them), the yellow wire from the cdi would be plugged into a pink wire from the coil and vice versa.



The important thing is that the yellow wire from the cdi goes to the coil on the left side of the bike and the pink wire coming off the cdi goes to the right side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yea it is like that, So can i use 15 40 Rotella Diesel Oil for this bike? or what?



And i know theres a wiring diagram on this bie in this site but i cant find it do you know where it is? i saw it
 

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The majority of the info you need is in the General Discussion section under the thread Quick Reference.



The Rotella Diesel is what many here use, although I don't recall what weight, but 15/40 sounds okay.



Looks like you have a fun bike to dink with, although I'm not particular to the cafe' stuff, but to each their own. It doesn't look too bad really.

*edit to add* The factory service manual is there, and also in Blindstitch's sig line in red, and is downloadable.



Joel in the Couve
 

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I've run both my CX500s on 15w40 diesel engine oil for over 6 years with no problems and they have super slick gearboxes.These engines are pretty forgiving.There are high mileage examples that have only ever used the cheapest 20w50 cheap mineral oil but they tend to be in the Warmer parts of the world/areas.

The,"W" in the oil designation is not,"Weight" but stands for,"Winter" and basically that's the viscosity of the oil at the temperature from a cold start.I don't think it would be wise to use 20w50 in somewhere like Canada/Russia<grin> as it would be a little thick on start up<grin>
 
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