The search doesn't allow 3 letter words, so search for "Rotella" in the search box to the right and you should find more info than you need. It's the subject from hell in any forum that even remotely discusses engines.
Oil Check
So heres the skinny I just had my old engine combined with a newer engine both had wear but between the two I got a good one. When we first got it going on fresh oil we ran it for ten minutes and check the oil and Yak it was a nasty contoxion of black and yellow crud so new filter new oil. At this point we were using Vavoline SAE-10w-40 then I took it out for around 30 miles and checked it. Black as ever with a murky brown mixed in still on Valvoline SAE-10w-40. So at this point since both engine had been sitting awhile we decide to up the anti a bit and took it to Valvoline SAE-50 figuring a heavier weight oil should help both get the engine back to clean and mean worked great took it to Ohio and back but it was black and murky again not nearly as back as the last few times though. Then I went up another bump this time to Harley SAE-60 to try and get everything greased and smooth again. I understand that with the heavier oil i need to run it in higher temp areas and when i start it I'll need to really let it warm up before i take off which i do but my question is to the experts here am I hurting anything running a heavier oil and should any of the above things cause me trouble as I really don't fully trust mechanics because of the whole profit money making ventures. So far since I did the SAE-60 it seems to pur like a kitten minus the whole valve ticky noise which I'll work on next.
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aye thank you!
Oil makes an expensive flush, when in doubt keep the kill switch on and crank some kerosene though the works a few times, let drain overnight then put in new oil & filter.
you replace the oil with kerosine and run it then flush it and change it agian with a new filter?Oil makes an expensive flush, when in doubt keep the kill switch on and crank some kerosene though the works a few times, let drain overnight then put in new oil & filter.
I believe he indicated to leave the kill switch on. My interpretation indicated he is saying leave the kill switch in a position where the bike will not run. WIth the kill switch in 'dont run' position', hit the start switch a few times to circulate some kerosene around the engine. I would suggest you clarify.
I would suggest to NEVER do this, run kerosene through the engine as a cleaner. Having just stripped a CX engine, I can attest to the fact that the engine retains about half a quart of oil in the nooks and crannies after draining and filter removal. I had the engine completely striped down and sitting for a week, then when I went to put away the front cover, it took an oil dump all over me.
You don't have to do anything more than put in some fresh oil and run it to operating temp. Most if not all the water residue should burn off, and the rest will come out with a hot oil drain.
You don't have to do anything more than put in some fresh oil and run it to operating temp. Most if not all the water residue should burn off, and the rest will come out with a hot oil drain.
Thats why I was confused and made sure to ask for clarification i think clarification next change i'll just throw a little seafoam in it to try and help it out a little and slowly ween her back to factory oil when she kickin smooth again.
True, and any remaining kerosene will burn off in short order. Seems to me these should drain better than leaving 1/2 qt.I believe he indicated to leave the kill switch on. My interpretation indicated he is saying leave the kill switch in a position where the bike will not run. WIth the kill switch in 'dont run' position', hit the start switch a few times to circulate some kerosene around the engine. I would suggest you clarify.
I'm with the above.Don't use ANY form of engine flush/Seafoam or anything else on an engine that has had some miles on it.I have ruined an older engine using an engine flush.They remove needed deposits around the big-end shells that build up over time.
Get the the cheapest Dino oil form the supermarket,fill up and run until the thermostat opens(Side coolant transfer pipe becomes hot when the thermostat opens).Then drain and repeat if required or re-fill with the oil you want to use.
My 2 cents.
Get the the cheapest Dino oil form the supermarket,fill up and run until the thermostat opens(Side coolant transfer pipe becomes hot when the thermostat opens).Then drain and repeat if required or re-fill with the oil you want to use.
My 2 cents.
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