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Is there a way to adjust the chain on the oil pump? I have the front cover off and noticed that it was almost touching my clutch basket.
Oil chain
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5,563 Posts
if its that close to your clutch basket......time for a new one
part number.........15140415003
chris,there is an an adjustment,on 2 of the mounting bolts,but it does not give you much.
http://www.cmsnl.com/products/chain-oil-pump_15140415003/
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5,563 Posts
nope,they do not normally wear out.save your dollars and put it to the price of a camchain,its on the shelf then when you need it
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8,422 Posts
Ditto.Even on the worst basket case CX engines I've stripped the oil pump gears have still been serviceable.If the teeth were worn,bent or gouged then yes I'd replace.The difference in lengths of new oil pump chains and old ones is minimal.
The chain just must not hit the Clutch basket and not have too much lateral bend when held horizontally.They also should have some play in them.This is covered in the manual.
The chain just must not hit the Clutch basket and not have too much lateral bend when held horizontally.They also should have some play in them.This is covered in the manual.
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A new chain when found to be slack when fitted is possibly symptomatic of sprocket wear.
Not saying this is the case but as these chaindrives only run under fairly light loads I wouldn't expect to see 'hooking' of the teeth or anything like that on these.
Perhaps they wear their tooth groove deeper. This would have the effect of loosening the chain.
Hypothetical I guess.
Not saying this is the case but as these chaindrives only run under fairly light loads I wouldn't expect to see 'hooking' of the teeth or anything like that on these.
Perhaps they wear their tooth groove deeper. This would have the effect of loosening the chain.
Hypothetical I guess.
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309 Posts
As observed, even a new oil pump chain seems a little loose when fitted.
After it`s been run for a short while it`s probably even looser..
The engine rotates clockwise from the front, so the `tight` side of the oil pump chain is on the bottom - nearest the clutch basket.
I would of thought that with a chain that appears slack will become `tight` on that lower run when the engine is running due to the resistance of the oil pump pulling the chain tight, thus there is little chance of one actually making contact with the clutch.
Even if it did you`d never hear that tiny bracelet making contact with something it shouldn`t over all the other noises in the engine.
As for sprockets, the oil pump and primary drive sprocket for the pump don`t seem to wear, but the camchain is another matter.
Check out the pic below.
I had (still have the engine) a CX that now has 150K + miles on, and replaced the camchain a few times on it during the time when i was doing up to two thousand miles a week on it..
Each chain lasted less than it`s predecessor maybe due to crankshaft/cam sprocket wear?
It`s easy to replace the cam sprocket, but what if the crank appears worn?
Whatcha gonna` do?
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After it`s been run for a short while it`s probably even looser..
The engine rotates clockwise from the front, so the `tight` side of the oil pump chain is on the bottom - nearest the clutch basket.
I would of thought that with a chain that appears slack will become `tight` on that lower run when the engine is running due to the resistance of the oil pump pulling the chain tight, thus there is little chance of one actually making contact with the clutch.
Even if it did you`d never hear that tiny bracelet making contact with something it shouldn`t over all the other noises in the engine.
As for sprockets, the oil pump and primary drive sprocket for the pump don`t seem to wear, but the camchain is another matter.
Check out the pic below.
I had (still have the engine) a CX that now has 150K + miles on, and replaced the camchain a few times on it during the time when i was doing up to two thousand miles a week on it..
Each chain lasted less than it`s predecessor maybe due to crankshaft/cam sprocket wear?
It`s easy to replace the cam sprocket, but what if the crank appears worn?
Whatcha gonna` do?
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810 Posts
The sprocket teeth on mine weren't pointed or curved. I'd buy that the grooves had greater depth to them.
Rick, I lengthened the slots with a couple strokes of a rat tale file at a time then tried it. It took several cycles of doing this to get the slots where I needed them. The chain was around $40 as I recall.
Rick, I lengthened the slots with a couple strokes of a rat tale file at a time then tried it. It took several cycles of doing this to get the slots where I needed them. The chain was around $40 as I recall.
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5,563 Posts
Linny and Rick,iv done the the exact same thing to both my bikes,it takes a few seconds to do.when done,its very easy to set the chain spec. up as per described in the manual[2mm-3.5mm,at the top run].
i think its an engineering blip.hardly enough adjustment even with a new chain.
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