Oh Dear

4838 Views 50 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Shep, Dec 28, 2010

darrenpage

Discussion Starter · Nov 22, 2010

Hi all. I started my bike up this evening.... No drama for a minute or two as it burbled away then a nasty noise started up like a hard fluttering sound. This came and went until the bike had warmed up completely at which point the noise disappeared again. I don't have much experience with CXs but I guess this is the cam chain tensioner going west? The bike is one of the late uk models with an auto tensioner so there is nothing externally to adjust.

Am I right in assuming it's now an engine out job and replace the chain etc before something expensive happens?

Save

41 - 51 of 51 Posts

darrenpage

Discussion Starter · #41 · Dec 21, 2010

Hi all. I finally got the bits I need to put the engine back together so I've made a start.

This going to sound very silly but I'm going to ask anyway.... Having not removed the camshaft sprocket carrier ( because I haven't got a deep socket that will fit) how can I be sure I have the valve timing correct and not 180 degrees out?

I'm 99.9% sure it's right and as such I've refitted the cam chain and tensioner then gingerly rotated the crank through a four or five revolutions. Everything rotates fine with no valve piston crown interface issues. Is it safe to assume or should I stop being tight and buy a deep socket?

Save

Reg in Bristol

· #42 · Dec 21, 2010

You only need a deep socket to remove the sprocket carrier & camshaft

not to renew the chain.

Save

darrenpage

Discussion Starter · #43 · Dec 21, 2010

Hi Reg. Yep I agree the thing that suddenly worried me is that with the sprocket carrier washer and nut in place you can't see the camshaft drive pin. The manual states this should be at the 2 o'clock position for correct valve timing when replacing the cam chain.

Save

Allan

· #44 · Dec 21, 2010

darrenpage said:
This going to sound very silly but I'm going to ask anyway.... Having not removed the camshaft sprocket carrier ( because I haven't got a deep socket that will fit) how can I be sure I have the valve timing correct and not 180 degrees out?

The cam can be out 180 degrees.

edit;

I just realized that your bike is TI not CDI, I do not know if it makes a difference or not on the TI bikes. On CDI bikes the cam can be out 180 degrees.

Save

Shep

· #45 · Dec 21, 2010

If you have aligned the woodruff key on the crank shaft to the timing mark on the crank case at the bottom and the two bolts that hold the Top driven gear at the top to their marks on the crank case then the Cam-shaft Cannot be 180 Deg out.Click on the picture.

See less See more

Save

81custom

· #46 · Dec 22, 2010

You mentioned in an earlier post that the starter motor did not engage first go and spun freely

that is a sign of a worn starter clutch - I would while the motor is out - take off the rotor/flywheel and inspect it - a lot easier to do when the motor is out anyway..

and replace the torx screws if you disassemble it...

See less See more

Save

darrenpage

Discussion Starter · #47 · Dec 28, 2010

Hi guys just to tie this thread up..... Engine now back together and in the bike again. It's running as sweet as sweet can be. Many thanks for all the help and advice. Star tip has to be the shep method for the mechanical seal. Makes a tough looking job the work of 5 minutes.

Save

Shep

· #48 · Dec 28, 2010

darrenpage said:
Hi guys just to tie this thread up..... Engine now back together and in the bike again. It's running as sweet as sweet can be. Many thanks for all the help and advice. Star tip has to be the shep method for the mechanical seal. Makes a tough looking job the work of 5 minutes.

Great work and the satisfaction of knowing the bike has a new,"Service" point to start from

After a few miles to bed-in go round the bike checking nut and bolt security as if you have just got the bike as per,

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=72

Also the temp gauges on these bikes are your friend.Both my CX under normal air-cooling riding conditions stay on or around the nominal mark.Should they ever run higher for any length of time it should be investigated.This does not include stopped in traffic conditions.

Even though it doesn't need it,after a couple of hundred miles and because I use cheap 10w/40 or 15w40 diesel engine oil(Better) I replace the oil/filter after major engine work just to keep the internals nice and clean.

You can now look forward to your,"Moments-of-Zen" where you get that feeling of being in-tune with the bike/engine whilst riding which I think you already know about

See less See more

Save

HotFoot

· #49 · Dec 28, 2010

darrenpage said:
Hi guys just to tie this thread up..... Engine now back together and in the bike again. It's running as sweet as sweet can be. Many thanks for all the help and advice. Star tip has to be the shep method for the mechanical seal. Makes a tough looking job the work of 5 minutes.

Good deal! May the engine run many, many miles happily.

And while your checking bolt/nut security that little split pin (cotter) has been installed thru the pivot pin at the fwd portion of the rear brake rod where it connects to the pedal/shaft arm.... yes??? Just making sure. Knew a guy that ran his CX for almost 1000 miles with no cotter. And the pin never fell out. What a bonehead!

Hoppy

Save

darrenpage

Discussion Starter · #50 · Dec 28, 2010

Thanks for the good advice guys. Shep you are right about those zen moments..... This little project has brought me closer to the bike and given me a sense of what a nice piece of engineering Mr Honda put together.

The shake down run this afternoon was great even though the temperature is only just above freezing. I'm going to enjoy my handy work this year.

Save

Shep

· #51 · Dec 28, 2010

darrenpage said:
Thanks for the good advice guys. Shep you are right about those zen moments..... This little project has brought me closer to the bike and given me a sense of what a nice piece of engineering Mr Honda put together.

The apparent simplicity of the engines does not do justice to what a superb piece of engineering and design they were for their time.This is proved by how many are still on the roads and more and more coming back from the grave all the time

See less See more

Save

41 - 51 of 51 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month