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I've had exactly the same problem with one of my collector boxes.The internal pipes came away e.g the small spot welds at the front inside causing a rattle at Idle.I didn't want to open it up so my solution was pretty easy.I drilled a couple of M6 holes in the top through both the outer wall and the inner pipes.Then bolted a small M6 bolt and nut up to draw the pipes up tight against the upper part of the collector.

Neither one has shown any signs of exhausts leaks but if they did I was just going to put a bit of exhaust putty on them.



HTH
 

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Just had a listen.I agree with above comments.Engine out job.Most likely cam-chain related.Do now and save the engine.



Plenty of info on what you need to do here,



http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/126066/ShowPost.aspx



http://choppercharles.com/cs/forums/193248/ShowPost.aspx



More CX/GL engines have been ruined by worn cam chains than by anything else.It's also not a hard job just a little daunting 1st time.You will get plenty of help and support here.Most cam chains seem to last around 50k to 70k but there are reports of them doing 100k.Pre-emptive oil and filter changes and adjusting the tensioner bolt(Manual Cam- chains) go a log way to extending the life of the chains.



The Water pump engine side Oil-seal should be replaced and care taken when re-fitting the rear case so as not to damage it.
 

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Put your bike model and year in your Signature.It helps us help you.



I think your bike has a TAI engine that means it's a Transistor Advanced Ignition engine.If so you have to remove the rear Advance and retard plate at the back of the engine,mark the position of the unit so when re-fitting you do NOT get it 180 Deg out and then remove it before you can remove the Rear cover.
 

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If you have aligned the woodruff key on the crank shaft to the timing mark on the crank case at the bottom and the two bolts that hold the Top driven gear at the top to their marks on the crank case then the Cam-shaft Cannot be 180 Deg out.Click on the picture.



 

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Hi guys just to tie this thread up..... Engine now back together and in the bike again. It's running as sweet as sweet can be. Many thanks for all the help and advice. Star tip has to be the shep method for the mechanical seal. Makes a tough looking job the work of 5 minutes.


Great work and the satisfaction of knowing the bike has a new,"Service" point to start from




After a few miles to bed-in go round the bike checking nut and bolt security as if you have just got the bike as per,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=72



Also the temp gauges on these bikes are your friend.Both my CX under normal air-cooling riding conditions stay on or around the nominal mark.Should they ever run higher for any length of time it should be investigated.This does not include stopped in traffic conditions.



Even though it doesn't need it,after a couple of hundred miles and because I use cheap 10w/40 or 15w40 diesel engine oil(Better) I replace the oil/filter after major engine work just to keep the internals nice and clean.





You can now look forward to your,"Moments-of-Zen" where you get that feeling of being in-tune with the bike/engine whilst riding which I think you already know about
 

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Thanks for the good advice guys. Shep you are right about those zen moments..... This little project has brought me closer to the bike and given me a sense of what a nice piece of engineering Mr Honda put together.


The apparent simplicity of the engines does not do justice to what a superb piece of engineering and design they were for their time.This is proved by how many are still on the roads and more and more coming back from the grave all the time
 
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