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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my new rear wheel today and everything works fine, and no left over parts. I just feel like it doesn't LOOK the same as it should, like I did something wrong but I can't figure out what. I know, a stupid problem, putting the wheel on should be hard but since I don't have anything to compare it to, could somebody post a close up picture of their rear wheel, on the right side?
 

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I had that concern when Wootersen and I were doing my rear brakes, when putting it back, it just didn't look right. I'm at work, but I'll see if I have a pic when I get home. I can't see pics here either.

Finally figured out that the housing is such a pesky positioning thing, once it got the sweet spot it slid inside further.
 

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Kingston, here is my rear, right side.....pardon the road grime. Haven't got to that yet. Still messy weather overall here but improving.



I didn't get a shot like that for the left during that shoot, that was for a different question I had a while back. I can shag one if you want.

Mine's an 82 custom 500. This help?

Joel in the Couve.



 

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Kingston, here is my rear, right side.....pardon the road grime. Haven't got to that yet. Still messy weather overall here but improving.



I didn't get a shot like that for the left during that shoot, that was for a different question I had a while back. I can shag one if you want.

Mine's an 82 custom 500. This help?

Joel in the Couve.





What's up with your nut? Seems like you have an extended amount of shaft.



I might have to hunt down a picture but it just looks a bit far out. Are you missing the spacer on the left side by the brake?
 

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Ramp,

I retract my statement. Seems this picture also has a good amount of shaft in it. Not having the castle nut probably threw me off.



 

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No problem, Stitch.....btw...I could not ride that style of bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the pictures, I guess I did it right. I haven't looked at my bike since december, so I guess I was just worrying about nothing. Once I flush the rad and put new oil and brake fluid in, and probably scuff up and clean the front break pads, I'll finally be ready to ride.
 

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Too embarrassed to show my bald rear tyre Jeff

I thought you'd all laugh at my 'tread' drawn on with marker pen


The bikes in dock now anyway and will get new rubber when its back on the road
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No insult intended
I think that you UK guys may have a different version than the US ones though, I'm almost positive the whole drive unit of my bike is silver.
 

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yes it is dirty but that part of the hub is painted black



Look I'm gonna definitely, maybe, possibly think about cleaning it soon OK?




Reg, theres no need to rush into something like that! BTW is it true in England the bikes are actually reversed since you all drive on the other side of the road?
So those pictures were actually reversed!
Now I'm mixed up


Gene
 

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Maybe that final drive was all silver originally but

I expect someone painted it like that at some time.

Not me

I built this bike from a pile of left over CX parts I amassed over the years and that

drive was probably the best looking at the time so it went on.



On a related note, when fitting the rear wheel

I always slacken the 3 nuts holding the drive off bit and fit the wheel and tighten

the axle nut before doing them up again.

I heard this helps the drive splines mesh properly and not bind and wear on one side

which could cause excessive wear and early failure.

It sounded feasible so I do it.



Related note 2:

after I get the wheel on and I fit the collar to the spindle and get it through the hub

I use a spanner on the flats of the spindle and tighten the nut before touching the

clamp on the LH leg.

Note the end of the spindle is almost flush with the clamp on the LH leg.

I've seen a few CX's where PO left almost an inch poking out and dragged the leg in

when tightening the main nut.

This can make removing the wheel a struggle.

If the spindles a bit tight, use a block of wood or something to keep the leg from

getting pulled in as you gently tap it home.



Not trying to teach folk to suck eggs or anything

If you already knew all that, please ignore.



Gene,

Yep we still do many things ass backwards over here
 

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Kingston

Any luck with that drive flange?

While giving my old thing a much needed service and tart up I removed the rear wheel

hoping I didnt discover what you did

Dont want to rub it in, but it was fine.

Btw:

You can where a PO painted the final drive you asked about

BTW2:

the bike is standing slightly down hill and getting the wheel off was made easier by rocking it up on to the two peices of wood you see under the stand



 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Reg,



I forgot to post back, but yep, it was sure enough and exact match. I don't know what made the seller think it was for a 3 wheeler, but it worked out for me as all the other drive flanges I've seen for sale have been over $50. The wheel's back on the bike and everything has been working very well. The only slight issue I have right now is I have a very small oil leak from either the cam tensioner hole or from the 17 mm cover hole. It's just enough to make that area a little shiny and slimy, but doesn't look like it's been blowing back to the tire. I think it might be the O ring in that cover because the o ring in the tensioner bolt is only 2 years old.
 

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I wouldnt worry about a little 'seepage' meself

unless it gets bad.

I hope you undid the 3 final drive nuts before you tightened the axle nut as

those drive flanges are getting scarce.

Well they are over here.
 

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Careful with all involved, bet it's likely only the O-ring.



Do not force out nor torque those bolts inside, use PBS or Kroil the day before with some heat immediately before removal then be careful, Use a good anti-seize such as http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOCTITE-Anti-Seize-Compound-4KM51?Pid=search - costs a fortune initially but it's the best and an 8 oz can with the included applicator brush will last you a lifetime. Spring for the 8 ox can and you'll find a ton of uses for it.



Unlike the copper based compounds it won't bind to aluminum and has a great grip/release ratio.



Works great on electrical connections to ground as well.
 
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