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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got my bike back on the road, and now the neck bearings are starting to make a creaking sound. Is there anyway to grease them with out taking the triple trees off? Maybe a grease gun with a needle point.

They do not seem to wobble, but should I replace them anyway? Are there complete roller bearing sets that I can buy? What part number and where would I go?

Thanks Ken
 

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A good test: Put the bike on the centerstand and have someone sit on the back seat so that the front wheel is off the ground, or put it on the centerstand and put a jack under the engine so that the front wheel is off the ground, then slowly use a finger to push the steering right and left. It should be perfectly smooth left and right and should not want to return to any particular spot, if there is any hitch in the movement or if the steering tries to self-center then your bearings are shot and should be replaced.



All Balls makes a really good set of roller bearings for our bikes, They are Dennis Kirk Part #: 121431, All Balls Part #: 221011, about $45 or so.



Part 121431 fits the following machines:

1972 Honda CB350F Super Sport

1973 Honda CB350F Super Sport

1974 Honda CB350F Super Sport

1973 Honda CB350G Super Sport

1968 Honda CB350K

1969 Honda CB350K

1970 Honda CB350K

1971 Honda CB350K

1972 Honda CB350K

1974 Honda CB360G

1975 Honda CB360T

1976 Honda CB360T

1978 Honda CB400A Hawk Hondamatic

1975 Honda CB400F Super Sport

1976 Honda CB400F Super Sport

1977 Honda CB400F Super Sport

1980 Honda CB400T Hawk

1981 Honda CB400T Hawk

1965 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1966 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1967 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1968 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1969 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1970 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1971 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1972 Honda CB450K Super Sport

1982 Honda CB450SC Nighthawk

1983 Honda CB450SC Nighthawk

1985 Honda CB450SC Nighthawk

1986 Honda CB450SC Nighthawk

1971 Honda CB500K

1972 Honda CB500K

1973 Honda CB500K

1975 Honda CB500T

1976 Honda CB500T

1975 Honda CB550F Super Sport

1976 Honda CB550F Super Sport

1977 Honda CB550F Super Sport

1975 Honda CB550K

1976 Honda CB550K

1977 Honda CB550K

1978 Honda CB550K

1983 Honda CB550SC Nighthawk

1979 Honda CB650

1980 Honda CB650

1981 Honda CB650

1982 Honda CB650

1980 Honda CB650C Custom

1981 Honda CB650C Custom

1982 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

1983 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

1984 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

1985 Honda CB650SC Nighthawk

1976 Honda CB750A Hondamatic

1977 Honda CB750A Hondamatic

1978 Honda CB750A Hondamatic

1976 Honda CJ360T

1977 Honda CJ360T

1968 Honda CL350K Scrambler

1969 Honda CL350K Scrambler

1970 Honda CL350K Scrambler

1971 Honda CL350K Scrambler

1972 Honda CL350K Scrambler

1973 Honda CL350K Scrambler

1974 Honda CL360K Scrambler

1975 Honda CL360K Scrambler

1968 Honda CL450K Scrambler

1969 Honda CL450K Scrambler

1970 Honda CL450K Scrambler

1971 Honda CL450K Scrambler

1972 Honda CL450K Scrambler

1973 Honda CL450K Scrambler

1974 Honda CL450K Scrambler

1979 Honda CM400A Hondamatic

1980 Honda CM400A Hondamatic

1981 Honda CM400A Hondamatic

1982 Honda CM450A Hondamatic

1983 Honda CM450A Hondamatic

1978 Honda CX500

1979 Honda CX500

1979 Honda CX500C Custom

1980 Honda CX500C Custom

1981 Honda CX500C Custom

1982 Honda CX500C Custom

1983 Honda CX650C Custom

1983 Honda CX650T Turbo

1982 Honda FT500 Ascot

1983 Honda FT500 Ascot

1989 Honda GB500

1990 Honda GB500

1976 Honda GL1000 Gold Wing

1981 Honda GL500I Silver Wing Interstate

1982 Honda GL500I Silver Wing Interstate

1981 Honda GL500 Silver Wing

1982 Honda GL500 Silver Wing

1983 Honda GL650I Silver Wing Interstate

1983 Honda GL650 Silver Wing

1983 Honda VT500C Shadow

1984 Honda VT500C Shadow

1983 Honda VT500FT Ascot

1984 Honda VT500FT Ascot

1984 Honda VT700C Shadow

1985 Honda VT700C Shadow

1983 Honda VT750C Shadow

1988 Honda VTR250 Interceptor
 

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I think since you're going to have to remove them to regrease them anyway now would be a good time to replace them so you have a set of a known age, the tapers listed above are a good upgrade anyway.
 

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Here is something I wrote up a while back on head bearings!





Checking Head Bearings



This procedure is very hard to explain even though it is very easy to do ... If my directions don't do it for you ask a mentor to show you. I was showing someone earlier this month how to do it and discovered that my GL650I head bearings were shot!!! I had checked them at the beginning of the riding season, so that shows they can go out at almost anytime on anyone.



To check the head bearings have someone sit on the back of the bike so the rear wheel is firmly on the ground.



Then go to the front of the bike and kneel down in front of it and grab both lower forks firmly with your hands. Pull slowly forward and push slowly backwards feeling for any movement. Be sure that you are no compressing the springs at all and confusing that with movement back and forth. This tells you if the bearings are loose and need adjusting. Sometimes it can also show that the forks are worn out ... so if you aren't sure ask someone who knows to test them for you.



To test for shot bearings (Not the same as loose bearings) while that person is on the back of the bike by putting one finger very lightly on top of or on the end of the handgrip of the bike. Then move the handlebars every so slowly (about a minute lock to lock) back and forth feeling for a very slight notch or stop in the rotation of the bar. It is usually very near to having the wheels straight ahead that you will normally find the notching effect. If you feel it drop into a notch that means the bearings are shot and need replacing.



You can have loose bearings and not have them shot, but you cannot have notched bearings without them being shot.



I hope this doesn't confuse you ... if it does I always recommend that you find a mentor to help you and when you become equal to that mentor you become a mentor to someone else.
 

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Must be an echo in here. I'm seriously thinking this is my next project too. I have a strange, intermittent vibration or wobble that bugs me at times.
 

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When checking for loose bearings as per the method outlined above it can be good if you are the one sitting on the bike while you get someone else to push/pull the forks.



Then you can put your finger under the top triple clamp against the joint between the upper cup and cone to feel if there is any movement at this point. If there's play you will feel a "nibbling" sensation on your fingertip.



This helps to make sure that any play found is not actually in the fork bushes or elsewhere.
 
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