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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm new to this so I'm trying to get up to speed. My father in law gave me a bike that'd been sitting for 5 years and now I'm attempting to resurrect it. He put stabilizer in the engine before it sat so hopefully the gas isn't bad. He said that before he parked it, it would run for about 20-30 minutes and then die so after some research on here, it seemed that maybe there was an issue with the stator. I did all the resistance tests for the stator and it seemed that the Source Coil Low Speed was kaput. I bought an Ignitech to rule out any CDI issues and because I knew I'd be buying one eventually anyways.

My biggest problem right now is that I'm not getting any spark. The spark plugs look clean. I've tried disconnecting the kill switch and disconnecting the three yellow wires but no change. I did a reading with the multimeter from the white wire from the stator and go about 3v which I think is supposed to have a lot more...

My battery is mostly dead probably but I've been cranking it with a starter that puts out about 11.4v on low and 15v on high so it should be getting enough juice. It rolls over pretty quickly but just not sparking.

Any help would be super appreciated! Thanks for keeping the forum awesome!

Also, anyone in the Rockford IL area that might be able to help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have about 13v on the black wires into the red power wires to the ignitech.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Electrical wiring Wire Electrical supply Cable management Cable Electrical wiring Cable management Wire Electrical supply Cable

I'm not sure what the ground was but I was assuming it was the green wire from where the old CDI used to be bolted in.
 

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After 5 years the gas is bad no matter what was put in it.
drain the tank and start with fresh gas.
I had your experience after installing an Ignetec on a friends bike.
Could not start the bike. The bike had one bad pulser, Ignetec needs
the pulsers working. Test the pulsers, carefully.
 
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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I agree with Okie: Nothing other than a sealed container (which a vented fuel tank most definitely is NOT) will make gasoline last 5 years. By all means check for spark and all that but before you waste much more time & effort drain the tank & carbs and re-fill with fresh because it isn't likely to run on what's in there now.
 

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The Ignetec gets 12v from the tail light wire, is your tail light working???
The tail light is on anytime the ignition is on, there are other ways to feed the Ignetec
but the tail light wire is close to where you need power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My tail light stays on. I have the black powered wire hooked to one of the red ones and the other black wire to the other red one so it essentially just loops through the ignitech.

Thanks for the info on the gas. The carbs were next on my list anyways. I just ordered Larry's book so I can do them right!

Ill retest the pulsers when I get home.
 

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If it will start try this before you take the carbs apart Carb Cleaning | Randakk's lazy method

For a CX you can just turn the petcock Off and ignore the part about the fuel pump. And since you are only filling 2 cars you need to add half (90cc).

I use a $1 store measuring cup for stuff like that.
 

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The Ignetec gets 12v from the tail light wire, is your tail light working???
The tail light is on anytime the ignition is on, there are other ways to feed the Ignetec
but the tail light wire is close to where you need power.
I have installed 4 or so Ignetec units and do not remember 2 power inputs.
Read your instructions carefully and hook the red power wire from the unit to your tail light lead.
Tail light not brake light, if you hook up to the brake light the bike will only run when you put on
the brake and the brake light is on. Not sure where the black wire goes????? Read the instructions again.
 

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I have installed 4 or so Ignetec units and do not remember 2 power inputs.
Read your instructions carefully and hook the red power wire from the unit to your tail light lead.
Tail light not brake light, if you hook up to the brake light the bike will only run when you put on
the brake and the brake light is on. Not sure where the black wire goes????? Read the instructions again.
I always hook them up to the black wire on the brake light, it is live with the ignition not just when the brake is pressed, the new Ignitech's have 2 red wires (male and female bullets) specifically designed to be in a loop in the black wire brake light circuit, the nearest ign. supply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
as trev_h said, there are two red wires from the ignitech that I just put into the brake light loop per the instructions that came with the ignitech. I'm still getting about 12v into the ignitech and about 5v out until i hit the rear brake - at which point i get 12v out as well. For what it's worth, I am hearing the ignitech buzzing for a bit and then quit (without pressing the brake). I'm assuming that's just start-up stuff. Electrical wiring Wire Auto part Fuel line Engine
 

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That buzzing you are hearing from the Ignitech is not right and sounds like there is a bad connection somewhere, if you are sure you have 12v+ going in and you say only 5v out that can only be a fault in that red wire circuit. All you can do is pull back the clear plastic insulators on the bullets and check that the actual copper core of the wire is crimped correctly (not just the insulation) and the same on the multi plug end, other than that you may well have a fault inside the unit.
 

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The rear brake lamp being on should not affect the voltage in the tail lamp circuit unless there is a bad ground or the filaments in the bulb or socket connections are shorted. Check the socket, bulb, grounds, and connections in the circuit.
 
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