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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been asked about a lot but I’m not gettin answers from old threads. Just picked up an 82 gl500 and it has no power to lights, switch or anything. Hooked a jump box straight to the cables and I’m getting power to the ignition but nothings happening past that. Checked main fuse along with fuses at the forks and all are good. Replaced the ignition and still nothing. Crossed a screwdriver on the solenoid and it wants to crank so now I’m completely lost on where to go from here. Any ideas?
 

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Is the battery old or new? What do you mean by ignition? With what did you replace the ignition? By ignition are you referring to the key switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is the battery old or new? What do you mean by ignition? With what did you replace the ignition? By ignition are you referring to the key switch?
Replaced the ignition switch and plug, no battery on the bike right now disconnected and am using a jump box to push power through the bike
 

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Did you use an ignition switch compatible with the GL500s TI ignition system? Do you have a voltmeter or a test lamp so that you can trace voltage through the wiring system? Perhaps a little more information about the bike would help. Has a previous owner made modifications? Has the bike sat for a long period of time? Are there mice in the area where it was stored {mice like to chew on bike wires}? Where do you attach the jump box?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No modifications as far as I can tell and no mice damage or signs of mice - jump box straight to the battery cables and yes the switch is a direct replacement but Seems like I didn’t need to even replace it but I having the same issue with the original. Grabbing a battery for my volt meter today to test voltages, was using a test light to see where I was getting power to. And the the bike sat for 8 years before me
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Are you sure the main fuse is OK? Those open link "dogbone" fuses can develop tiny cracks and look perfect when they don't actually conduct.

Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old (current issue aside) and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. After 8 years of sitting you don't need to check the date codes on your tires to know they are over 5 years old and should be replaced no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).
 

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Did you check across the main fuse with your test light? Edit: Should have said did you check for voltage on each end of the main fuse with your test light? (one side of test light to ground, test with the other).

No modifications as far as I can tell and no mice damage or signs of mice - jump box straight to the battery cables and yes the switch is a direct replacement but Seems like I didn’t need to even replace it but I having the same issue with the original. Grabbing a battery for my volt meter today to test voltages, was using a test light to see where I was getting power to. And the the bike sat for 8 years before me
 

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For me the easiest test most of the time is to check the voltage across the fuse while it's still in the system. Zero voltage fuse good, system voltage (12V) fuse bad. Definitive test is an ohmmeter across the fuse with the fuse out of the system. Zero resistance good, infinity bad.
Also check your assorted ground connections as well, along with battery cables themselves. Got bit by this one with my CA100 with a bad system ground wire.
As Sidecar Bob noted sometimes fuses have hairline cracks that you can't see. Don't ask me how many times I've seen that one on way too many electrical systems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did you check across the main fuse with your test light? Edit: Should have said did you check for voltage on each end of the main fuse with your test light? (one side of test light to ground, test with the other).
Yes I did check that along with the rectifier and relay under the seat
 

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I’m getting power to the ignition but nothings happening past that.
Did you check for power coming from the key switch? Black should have power from key switch when in the on position.
 
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