Honda CX 500 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I intend to redo the wiring on my cafe/brat project and I need someone to confirm the information I gathered
I can add lights, gauges, sensors, no problem. I want to focus on the bare minimum circuit to get the bike to run.


I plan to use a Ballistic Evo2 8 cells, a SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA, a G47 stator, an ignitech box and a motogadget M-unit blue

The specs for the battery:Amp/Hours: 4.6 Ahrs/Burst Cranking Amps: 240 BCA (5 sec @ 70°F)
The Mofset R/R is quite standard
The M-unit should work just fine

I am less knowledgeable about the ignitech box and the stator

Fortunately I found someone who did a similar setup.
Diagram Line Plan Floor plan Design


On his setup he used a G8 stator with an ignitech which I thought was used to solve CDI issues and I'm a bit confused
I would like to know:
1) Can I use my g47 stator or if I will have to swap it for a g8 or an aftermarket one ?
2) will the setup work with a regular cdi unit rather than an ignitech ?
3) can you spot a mistake in my project ?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
The Ignitech is used when some of the coils have failed. If your G47 is working properly there is no need to replace it or to use an Ignitech. You are gambling that none of the coils will fail soon. Some will install an Ignitech or even better a Rae-San system to protect against future troubles from coil failures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That doesn't make sense. Why replace the ecu when you can replace the coils for cheaper ?
Why do you guys like the RAE san so much ?

It is a junk bike, I never got it to run. I don't trust most of the electrical parts, I prefer a brand new wiring. I got the bike for so cheap I can invest a bit more in a new ignition system plus the Ignitech seems cleaner and easier to tune up with a computer.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
Sorry I wasn't more precise in my reply. By coils I meant the stator coils and the pulsers. If they fail it's an engine out repair unless the coil which failed can be replaced by the ignitech. The Rae-San does not use any of the old stator coils or pulsers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahh I see it is close to what a dynatek is for the old CBs but how do you charge the battery without the stator coils ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well in this case...
I think I'd better get the bike to run with a mosfet (because of the tiny battery) and a Rae san and then figure out how I am going to have to implement the M-unit to plug the lights and sensors.

Do we have a a schematic ready for this setup? (mosfet+RAE) I couldn't find one on their website

(there is no way I'm going to create a full custom wiring old school style, I'm not that much into wiring)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
The G47 stator has coils for charging the battery plus coils for charging the CDI. You need the mosfet regulator if you are running a lithium battery. It is not related to the Rae-San which is part of the ignition system.
Have you downloaded a copy of the factory service manual for your bike? Available from the wiki; link in my signature line.
I think that your best bet would be to get the bike running with the stock set up before going for the lithium battery, MOSFET and Rae-San.
 
  • Like
Reactions: nolimitz

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so essentially I'm looking for the base circuit (Bare minimum)
After an hour of Photoshop removing cable after cable I get this circuit:

Floor plan Plan Diagram Line Parallel


1) used to be a rear brake light but I notice it is plugged to a central connector with nothing else coming out of the connector
Is this part of the circuit useless or did I miss something important about these connectors ?

2)If I read the diagram correctly it's for accessories and I can get rid of this orange loose end, correct ?

Can I get rid of the Starter disconnect switch ?

Do you see anything else I can remove ?

Here is the original diagram
Plan Floor plan Line Diagram Technical drawing
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
I notice that your paired down diagram does not include a temperature gauge but that you have retained the 7 volt regulator. I would suggest that you include a temperature gauge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I just want to get the basic circuit to run the engine for 1 or 2 mins and see if there is no problems.
I don't think I will need sensors and gauges for this purpose.
I admit that I don't really know what this 7V regulator is (I haven't found it on the bike yet - the previous owner messed with the wiring and electrical components)
I assumed the R/R was taking care of the charging/ignition part of the circuit and the small 7V reg was taking care of the sensors/lights part of the circuit, I kept it but I don't know if I really need it.

Can I get rid of the Starter disconnect switch ? (it seems to be more of a safety feature for the road, I'm not there yet)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I know a lot of guys that go with Rick's or even RMStator for the RR.

As far as battery goes, I like Antigravity because of the higher Ah for the same size.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
I missed where you said what bike you are working on. Is it CDI or TI ignition? The wiring diagram you posted is for a TI ignition. However you mentioned using a G47 stator which is for a bike with CDI ignition. If all you want to do is wire the bike enough to simply test run the engine you can pare down the circuit even more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The bike I work on is a cdi,
Well, at first I wanted to prepare the complete circuit but you guys made me realize it would be better to make a basic wiring for testing and only then implement the upgrades
How can it be more pared down ?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
To test run a CDI engine all you need is the connection from the stator to the CDI unit and from the CDI unit to the spark coils. The black/white wire from the CDI unit will stop the engine when it is connected to ground. You need the battery connected to ground and to the starter solenoid. If you don't want to jump the solenoid to engage the starter you need a 12v source to the small terminal on the solenoid with some sort of momentary contact switch. The other small connector on the solenoid would be connected to ground. That would allow you to start the engine; a CDI engine does not need the battery to run, just to start and run lights and accessories. Have you done the stator resistance check from the motofaction website? https://motofaction.org/motorcycles/honda-cx-gl/how-to-check-test-stator-honda-cx500/ and https://motofaction.org/motorcycles/honda-cx-gl/stator-test/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have planned to do all the tests later. I'm focusing on the paint job right now.

So if I understand correctly this is what I should work with to test run the engine:
Line Diagram Parallel


I should use the battery just to engage the starter and then disconnect it. The engine will sustain itself and keep going until I ground the CDI with the black wire, correct?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,339 Posts
That looks right. No need to disconnect the battery.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top