Honda CX 500 Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just picked up an 82' GL500 Silverwing from a friend who is moving out of state. He bought it a year ago from a mechanic/driving test examiner. The bike has just shy of 50,000 miles on it. My first go with the starter yielded mixed results. The engine will "fire" but won't stay running without help from the starter. My first approach has been to do a deep clean of the carb with the sonic cleaner. I will reassemble soon and try again. There is an oil leak somewhere at the front of the engine which I will try to locate after a good cleaning. I plan on replacing the drive shaft boot (luckily came with a spare) and I am looking into replacing the rubber brake lines. Does anyone have a good source for these? I am also questioning the carb intake rubber. It looks like these aren't available either so I may attempt the shrink hose fix.

As for me. This is my first "real" motorcycle. With a Honda '80 C70 Passport in my collection. I am fairly handy but have limited experience with a wrench. In the past I have dabbled in mechanics with cars and my C70. I have a few friends to mentor me who have experience with older Honda's. It is currently being stored in a friends garage where I will work on it until I have it back to safe riding condition.

20190528_222455.jpg

View attachment 186137

20190528_221210 (1).jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
Joined
·
16,266 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Please add your bike's model and model year to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature) so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership. Your bike has had 37 years of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable (we all know the story of the mechanic that doesn't look after his own vehicle) so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. You mentioned replacing the rubber brake lines (should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years); Modern stainless braided ones last practically forever and double the life of the fluid. The ones on my bikes are old enough that any info about where I got them would be so far out of date... But I'm sure someone that has bought them more recently will be along shortly and tell you where they got theirs.

What do you think is wrong with your intake manifolds? I wish mine looked as good as the one in your pic....

Re starting: Part of your problem may be related to the vacuum operated petcock. The vacuum petcock has 2 valves, a manually controlled valve that works the same as a non-vacuum petcock, allowing you to select between ON, OFF and REServe and a vacuum valve that prevents fuel from entering the manual valve when the engine is not running.

The carbs on these bikes have a tendency for the fuel in the float bowls to evaporate and when they are not used for a week or so the level can get low enough that there isn't enough for the engine to start. The problem is that the vacuum petcock doesn't let any fuel into the carbs unless the engine is turning fast enough to produce vacuum so you have to crank the starter long enough for the engine to supply enough vacuum to the petcock to open the valve for a long enough time for the float bowls to re-fill and it is pretty easy to run the battery down doing that.
The same applies when you have drained the float bowls for storage or when removing the carbs for cleaning &c. If that is the case whacking the throttle won't do anything

You have a few options when that happens:
- If it has been sitting for a few days and you expect that it will be hard to start, before you touch the Start Button, vigorously whack the throttle open several times to operate the accelerator pump and squirt raw fuel into the carb throats.
- If it has been sitting for a week or more and whacking the throttle doesn't help there are 3 ways to fill the bowls:
1) RECOMMENDED Disconnect the fuel line from the petcock, connect a funnel and pour 90cc of fuel in directly.
2) Disconnect the vacuum line from the petcock (this is the small barb farthest from the petcock's main body), connect a short piece of clean tubing in its place and apply vacuum (with a vacuum pump or just suck with your mouth) for about 10-15 seconds.
3) Disconnect the drain/vent line from the petcock (this is the small barb between the vacuum line and the main body), connect a short piece of clean tubing in its place and blow gently into it for 15-20 seconds.

Of course, you can also spray a bit of starting fluid (ether) into the air intake and start the engine on that, which usually opens the vacuum valve long enough to fill the bowls but it may take a couple of tries to get the bowls full enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you Sidecar Bob! Is that a Simpsons reference??

The carb is sparkly clean and back in the bike. I was able to fill the float bowls and get it running with a few adjustments of the idle. It is really exciting how smooth this bike runs and rides. The only thing aside from eventually replacing brake lines and shaft boot is a leak somewhere above the clutch cover. Possibly tach/camshaft cover? It started as a pretty steady trickle, but slowed to a intermittent drip after a trip around the block. I finished around midnight so I will have to save problem solving for another day.
 

·
Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
Joined
·
16,266 Posts
Good to hear that you got it running.

The driveshaft boot has been NLA for over 15 years. This works (the one on my Eccles is still in good shape after almost 13 years and over 90,000 Km) https://cx500forum.com/forum/technical-help-forum/7048-empi-boot-pro-link-swingarms.html

There are 3 common oil leaks at the front of the engine: 1) the oil seal where the clutch arm goes into the clutch cover 2) the upper right corner of the transmission cover (front engine cover) gasket (left & right are always referenced to someone in the operator's normal position) and 3) the oil seal where the camshaft comes through the camshaft &/or the camshaft holder gasket (behind the rad and fan).
Make sure the problem isn't one of the easier to get at places before you tear it farther apart than you need to (clean it well and powder the engine with flour, talcum or any other fine powder, then drive it a while and you should be able to follow the tracks back to where the leak is). But if the oil is indeed coming from behind the rad you might want to deal with it before it gets like this


And if you have to remove the rad for that you might as well service the cooling system while it is apart & drained CX/GL500/650 Cooling System Servicing:

The Simpsons character is Sideshow Bob.

I am Sidecar Bob because my name is Robert and I drive sidecar outfits. And I learned about sidecars from a guy that was occasionally called Sidecar Mike.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
Jeez, Bob, that looks like what I found on my DeSoto.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
YIKES! That is quite a mess. I was able to peek between the rad and the engine to see oil coming out above the clutch/oil filter. That is why I assume that it is coming from the crankshaft area.

I have been enjoying the sidecar pictures and blog. Thanks for contributing so much to the forum!
 

·
Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
Joined
·
16,266 Posts
That was what accumulated behind the rad in one winter. I'm not sure how much of that winter the gasket was leaking but it looked like every speck of dirt that got past the rad stuck...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Welcome, neighbor, from SE Wisconsin myself. I rejoined this forum in a quest to find another bike. I had the 1981 version of your bike that I converted into a Standard. I miss it. Mine had 58,000 miles when I purchased it, and always ran well. Hope you experience many good years with yours.

Dan
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chainsaw90210
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top