[Randall-in-Mpls]

Besides, I remember being taught that step #1 of an oil change is driving to the store for the supplies so that the engine is fully warmed up and the old oil will drain better.

If you find yourself needing to make a mid-winter oil change (and you don't have the 3-wheeled option for a warm-up ride) a halogen work lamp directed at the oil sump for a couple hours is a pretty good substitute.

 

[ChrisDiehl]

This is the kit I was referring to. Will this work or do I need something else? And you are correct about the intake runners. I need new ones because mine are hard as a rock. Where can I get new ones? I'm not sure how to post my info in my profile where it will show up on my post. I'm sorry and thank you in advance for all the help

 

[Sidecar Bob]

The kit you bought will do the job, its just one of the more expensive options.

New intake runners aren't available other than the ones that have those problems. There are various ways to soften old rubber parts, including soaking in various concoctions that include Oil of Wintergreen.
I've had surprisingly good results by coating them with silicone grease and letting them sit for a day before wiping off the excess. It won't make them soft right away but the greasiness will help them go back on and I found the ones I did that way much softer when I took them out again a year or 2 later (I suspect the heat cycles draw the silicone into the rubber).

See the Forum Settings link in my signature (should be below this message when you read it) for information about accessing and filling in your signature.

 

[Randall-in-Mpls]

I've had good results soaking those intakes in ArmorAll.

 

[richnct]

The intake runners are best thought of as solid, not flexible. The small amount of rubber softness comes into play at the carb end “lip” when installing or removing them from the carburetor spigot by twisting and angling them. And it isn’t what I would call soft, except as compared to aluminum!