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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Welcome to the forum. Please add your location and your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature). As Rich mentioned, this information can be found on the VIN plate but note that it is the model year, not the date of manufacture that is important (most bikes sold in the US and Canada are manufactured in the last quarter of the year before the model year so that they can be in the distributor's warehouse in the beginning of the model year).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

What Randall said about making it a runner first is just about the best advice anyone can give you about customizing any vehicle. It is tempting to dig in and try to make it look like something you saw a picture of and thought looked cool but a lot of vehicles that look nice at first glance have been modified in ways that actually work less well.
If you make it safe & reliable in more or less original condition and use it for a while before you start making any changes so it can tell you what changes it needs to make it do what you want/need better. That approach almost always results in something you actually want to keep and use but making changes based on style or on what someone else (who may or may not really understand how the changes affect the way it works) has done often results in a piece of expensive yard art that you can't stand sitting on for more than a few minutes and might even be dangerous.
 

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Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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18,679 Posts
Resist the temptation to replace any metal parts in your carbs with ones that come in the kits. The original jets, needles &c are almost always absolutely fine to use once cleaned properly but the ones in the kits are more often than not so far out of spec that they cause all sorts of problems.

It might be a good idea to order Larry's Carb Book (link in nolimitz' signature).

I've never heard if an oil change kit for one of these bikes but oil filters are pretty easy to find as Honda used the same filter in all of their 2 cylinder engines for years. Don't use automotive oil with an API rating higher than SF because they contain friction modifiers that can cause problems with wet clutches. The oil used in bike engines with wet clutches should be JASO-MA rated.

I'm not sure what you mean by "the boots for the manifold" but if you mean the intake runners that connect the carbs to the cylinder heads be warned that the aftermarket ones that have been on eBay and Amazon recently often have the rubber and metal parts misaligned so that they won't fit.

BTW: Don't forget to add your location and your bike' model and model year to your profile.
 

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Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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18,679 Posts
I pick up a few bottles of oil for about $9 each when I'm in Canadian Tire (I'm sure there are places in the US that have a similar range) and I order the filters on eBay, 4 at a time (under $5 each). That's in $CAD so it would come to about $25 in US funds.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I used to change the o-rings every time until I managed to pinch the big o-ring on my GoldWing (similar setup to the CX but larger) when putting it together. Big puddle of oil under the engine and no option except putting the old one back in. After that I decided they didn't need new o-rings every time so I started changing them every other time. Since I started buying filters that don't always come with new ones I change them if they look like they need to be changed, which isn't often.

The last time I remember changing an o-ring was when I replaced the engine in the GoldWing (long story involving better gearing for the sidecar). I actually replaced the o-ring with the one that came in the Athena gasket kit and a couple of weeks later I noticed oil dripping from the engine, which turned out to be coming from the oil filter housing. When I opened it up I found that the o-ring, which had protruded from the groove normally when I installed it, was now too thin to seal.
The one I replaced it with is still sealing several oil changes later.
I think I probably replaced the one in the GL500 engine before I put it into Eccles too but I'd have to check my notes.

FWIW, one of the machines where I worked had a counter that was driven by a plastic belt with a round cross section, which broke eventually. Instead of asking the boss to try to source the part (the manufacturer was long out of business) I brought in a used oil filter o-ring from the GoldWing and it worked perfectly. It was still working perfectly a decade later when I retired. I know that is working in tension instead of sealing but it is a pretty good indicator of how long something like that can last.

I shop online a fair bit these days and I hardly ever buy on Amazon because I can usually find the exact same thing elsewhere for less and I can almost always find what I am looking for easier somewhere else (if they would fix their search function and police the keywords that sellers use it might be better but as it is it is a terrible experience).

As for buying oil (or any other liquid for that matter) online, you must know that a significant part of the price is the cost of shipping ("free" shipping just means that the price has been increased to cover the cost of shipping) so buying online is almost always second only to buying it at a bike shop.
Besides, I remember being taught that step #1 of an oil change is driving to the store for the supplies so that the engine is fully warmed up and the old oil will drain better. Yes, I know that isn't always possible in the real world (I often have to take a ride to warm the engine because I bought the oil weeks before I needed it) but if you buy the oil online it can never happen.
 

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Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
Joined
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18,679 Posts
The kit you bought will do the job, its just one of the more expensive options.

New intake runners aren't available other than the ones that have those problems. There are various ways to soften old rubber parts, including soaking in various concoctions that include Oil of Wintergreen.
I've had surprisingly good results by coating them with silicone grease and letting them sit for a day before wiping off the excess. It won't make them soft right away but the greasiness will help them go back on and I found the ones I did that way much softer when I took them out again a year or 2 later (I suspect the heat cycles draw the silicone into the rubber).

See the Forum Settings link in my signature (should be below this message when you read it) for information about accessing and filling in your signature.
 
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