New member Australia

82 had twin piston caliper front brakes and transisterised ignition with auto camchain tensioner. Otherwise same as 81.

Brakes may be better - maybe. I actually prefer the 38 mm single pots.

Manual tensioner is better than auto but transisterised ignition is more reliable than CDI so that's a definite win.

Often the twin pot calipers seize and work on one pot. That's why I prefer the single pots. A cleanup of the calipers might improve things.

Factory spec for fork oil is 140 cc. I use 155 - 170 and this helps by reducing the air space. Air is a compressable medium whether valves are fitted or not.

A fork brace is a worthwhile addition and stops a lot of the bad behaviour.

Welcome to the forum. I guess I don't need to welcome you to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around).
In addition to going through the Factory Shop Manual for your model and doing all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage, I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because (as you probably already know) rubber does not age gracefully. I'm sure you know to check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). It looks like your CX still has the original rubber brake lines, which should have been replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes (= 5 or 6 years) so I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).