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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was recently given a 1980 CX-500 Custom that the water pump seal is leaking on and is taken down to where it is accessible. I know that now after looking at the mechanical seal thread in this forum. I was afraid I would have to take the engine off of the bike.



I also bought anouther '80 CX-500 Custom for parts, and it's almost a complete bike.



My first question is : Should one be able to turn the engine with the bolt on the front of the engine after the radiator has been removed (after the bolt cover has been removed, of course)?



I look forward to chatting with you guys!



Jimmie
 

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You can turn the motor with this bolt head which is straight onto the front of the crankshaft. Turn it in the direction as if tightening it.

You should be able to access this cover and bolt even with the radiator and shroud in place, as you will need to do for routine servicing,--- camchain and valve clearance adjustments.
 

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I was recently given a 1980 CX-500 Custom that the water pump seal is leaking on and is taken down to where it is accessible. I know that now after looking at the mechanical seal thread in this forum. I was afraid I would have to take the engine off of the bike.



I also bought anouther '80 CX-500 Custom for parts, and it's almost a complete bike.


Welcome aboard!



My first question is : Should one be able to turn the engine with the bolt on the front of the engine after the radiator has been removed (after the bolt cover has been removed, of course)?



I look forward to chatting with you guys!



Jimmie


Good for you on two CX's! Nice to have a reference/parts store nearby!




A.: Yes. Shouldn't have to remove the radiator, IIRC, to remove the cover cap to access the 17mm bolt head to be able to turn over the engine. Removing the spark plugs makes it easier, but you already know that.



Good luck on the seal. It's not hard. I haven't experienced the leaky seal yet-one engine had a new seal installed, the other engine looked ok, but I may still have a spare one on hand just in case.
 

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I look forward to chatting with you guys!



Nothing we enjoy more than a challenging question, wish I could welcome all the new members we've picked up recently.



Had they not figured out how to multitask between different apps I think I'd be better off at times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well thanks for the replies folks!



I think the motor on the parts bike may be fried. The radiator has been removed and the cover for that bolt is gone leaving the bolt exposed and I tried to turn it and it the day I picked it up and it wouldn't budge. Should it take much torque to turn it? All I was using was an 8" ratchet and it has been sitting for over a year.



Even if it is fried I think I got a good deal for a bunch of spare parts. I can't wait to get that seal replaced and get the bike back together and start riding!
 

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Well that's not a good sign but pull the spark plugs out and try again. Make sure it's in neutral.



If it still doesn't move spray some penetrating fluid into the cylinders and leave it for a day. Spray often. And then see what it does.
 

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Might put some penetrating fluid on the crank bolt too and let it work a while. Without that cover on there it may be gummed up with corrosion.
 

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Welcome to the CX/GL500 forum J.J. Where are you located? Put that and the model & year of your bikes in your signature. Might be a member nearby.
 

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warm welcome from spain
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Blindstitch and Ramprat I'll try the penetrating oil. Thanks for the tips!



Dash, I'm in Seguin, Tx. About 40 miles east of San Antonio, and I'll edit the signature.



Bandit, thanks for the welcome. My paternal ancestry is from Spain!



I got the water pump cover off of the bike today and it seems the seal is flattened to the point it may not be effective anymore, hence the leak. While that my seem like a hassle it may well be a relief in that the mechanical seal may indeed be alright. I've seen where that seal is no longer available...will anything else work?



Any suggestions?
 

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Blindstitch and Ramprat I'll try the penetrating oil. Thanks for the tips!



Dash, I'm in Seguin, Tx. About 40 miles east of San Antonio, and I'll edit the signature.



Bandit, thanks for the welcome. My paternal ancestry is from Spain!



I got the water pump cover off of the bike today and it seems the seal is flattened to the point it may not be effective anymore, hence the leak. While that my seem like a hassle it may well be a relief in that the mechanical seal may indeed be alright. I've seen where that seal is no longer available...will anything else work?



Any suggestions?




The Mechanical seal is flat. The waterpump cover seal looks like a big o-ring.



For a mechanical seal there is a yamaha seal that can replace it. There is a group buy on some right now. As for the cover seal it should still be available for $7 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well alrighty then!



I'm going to hope and pray that it is only the cover seal, as the guy that gave me the bike said that's where the coolant was coming from. I'll see if I can find on online somewhere. If it turns out the mechanical seal is bad as well at least I have the knowledge to be able to tear it down now.



I have to go through the carbs as well. The bike has been laid up for more than a year and they're froze up. I may have the thing running by the end of the week if I can get a day off from work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I spoke to the guy that gave me the bike this evening and he told me taht the coolant leak was coming from the OTHER cover on the back of the engine, not the water pump cover. That would make the leak coming from the pulser cover...



Is that even possible?!? I took that cover off and didn't see any evidence of fluid or rust, nor corrosion of any of the wires on the pulser.



I'm hoping he was mistaken about where the leak was coming from. I really don't want to take that engine loose from the bike and have to ackle that rear cover.





HELP!!!
 

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Weep hole maybe?
 

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My first question is : Should one be able to turn the engine with the bolt on the front of the engine



Jimmie


Yes, if the engined did not seize and die. Could need a bigger "breaker bar" for leverage, and as mentioned, some



penetrating oil to loosen things up. Pull plugs and ensure your in neutral.



Good Luck
 
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