[gearhed]

Quick introduction
My cousin and I received 3 turbo bikes this past weekend from our late uncle. I received this 650T below along with a 1978 CX500. There was a collection of bikes our uncle had affectionately referred to as "Bike Land". Bike land consisted of approximately 9 motorcycles of which all were CX and GL variants for the most part from the 80's. Our other cousin (uncles son Carson) was kind enough to allow us to take these bike. They are certainly sentimental bikes which we will likely never sell.

The Good
The 650T that I have came from a guy named Wayne Hager that was purchased in 1987 "New" according to the title and bill of sale. Weird why it was 4 years old when purchased.
The bike was meticulously maintained according to all of the documentation that we found on it. However the handwriting is very very hard to read and not sure if the stator was replaced or not. More forensic handwriting analysis is needed,lol. The bike has 23K on the odometer and seems to be in pretty darn good condition and still has the set of original keys. For the most part it looks original except the tail lights and some custom switches were added to the gauge cluster for a trailer that the bike hauled;

The Bad
The bike unfortunately was laid down by my uncle several years ago and hasn't ran in 7-8 years. From what I understand he was very upset and decided to park the bike. The fairing has pretty substantial
scuff marks on the right side and you guessed it, turn signal lens suffered a rapid disassembly on impact,lol. As the bike slid, he and the bike got lightly wedged under the ladies car that pulled out in front of him also damaging the left side fairing as seen in the pictures and the non-stock tail lights were damaged. Tires are also more than 5 years old.

Besides the body damage, I took a look in the tank as seen in the pictures below and noticed it needs to be cleaned out. Also, the other seemingly difficult to find glove box cover
has not been found when we were getting all of the bikes loaded up. The front master cylinder is froze and the front and rear calipers are partially froze and need rebuilt. I have not
checked the airbox for tenants yet. It was parked in a garage so it likely has not had mice shacked up.

The Questions
1 .Do you guys know where I can send this ABS fairing to be fixed and painted? I found one guy in the northeast that specializes in ABS fairing repairs but I have no idea if the guy is good or not. Looks like BDesigns has everything needed for the fairing stencils.

2. For cleaning the tank, should I use the apple cider vinegar method or the muriatic acid method? Also, it looks like the tank has some sort of liner in it but I am not sure.

3. Should I just plan on sending the injectors out since the tank has rust? Since the bike didn't run with the rust in the tank, I don't know if sediment made it down to the filter/pump/injectors.

4. Is there a source that anyone would recommend in regards to removing and rebuilding the petcock? It will need to come out for the tank to be cleaned and I might as well
service it if while it's out.


Final Thoughts
I am very excited to start this project and hear this thing start for the first time. I want to bring you guys along on the journey to getting it back on the road. I have read
almost every thread on this site related to turbos and have fallen in love with this bike and the community. I have especially enjoyed the build threads and detailed troubleshooting threads where the members here all chime in and give expert directions and the end result is a finished working bike.

I look forward to any advice and direction/opinions/ that you guys have to offer. HERE WE GO!!

 

[gearhed]

The resurrection began after work today. I removed the tank from the 650T and drained the gas. Everything came apart pretty easy and within an hour, I had the petcock removed and the fuel gauge assembly removed. I am going to check the manual and see if I can test the fuel gauge unit by applying voltage and probing the signal wire to see if it operates. After I clean the heck out of it that is. It looks pretty crusty. Might need replaced.

EDIT - The manual didn't seem to have the OHM values or how to test the sending unit. I used this resource to learn about how to test and troubleshoot the fuel sending unit.

https://motovillage.org/wiki/hondacxgl/index.php?title=Turbo_Fuel_System#Fuel_Sender_Operation_and_Cleaning

The petcock looks ok but the o-ring is shot. No surprise there really. The large o-ring for the fuel gauge unit was bad as well. I'll dig up the parts number and see if I can find the seals or at least equivalents. One thing that I noticed is in the manual, it shows a sift screen but when I removed the petcock, no sift/filter was on the end of the tube as shown. Maybe it' still in the tank?

I will see what you guys recommend about cleaning the tank before moving forward. I caught some fuel when I removed the fuel line to see if sediment was in the line and there was. I will look at replacing the fuel strain/filter.

 

[demoderbydave]

Pretty cool bike you got there! What frame number is it? I see you need one of the elusive turn signal lenses'... There is a member that had some reproduced on this group and maybe he still has some... The cowl above the gauges is easier to find as the 500 used the same one if I remember correctly. I have a spare one of those. The harder thing to find will be the left side pocket cover if you don't have one. It seems like you have an idea of what it is going to take to revive it. The fairing can be fixed (although not cheaply) and rear turn signals are easier to find as well. I look forward to seeing your progress. if you don't have one I'd obviously get a factory repair manual...there are always some on eBay. I'd concentrate on the mechanical first....

 

[gearhed]

Pretty cool bike you got there! What frame number is it? I see you need one of the elusive turn signal lenses'... There is a member that had some reproduced on this group and maybe he still has some... The cowl above the gauges is easier to find as the 500 used the same one if I remember correctly. I have a spare one of those. The harder thing to find will be the left side pocket cover if you don't have one. It seems like you have an idea of what it is going to take to revive it. The fairing can be fixed (although not cheaply) and rear turn signals are easier to find as well. I look forward to seeing your progress. if you don't have one I'd obviously get a factory repair manual...there are always some on eBay. I'd concentrate on the mechanical first....

Thanks! I think according to the title, the last 4 digits are 0963. I am assuming #963? Yes, the glove box cover is a bit of a bummer. Funny thing about the turn signal lens... I took a painful hit on ebay and got/found one for $299. I was not happy about the price but I know they are not easy to find. About a week later, my cousins and I were going through boxes of stuff and one of them FOUND A RIGHT SIDE LENS. I about fell over. I now have 2.

As for the rear turn signals, I already have a set purchased. A guy on ebay was selling them for $150 EACH and he took my $60 offer so $120 for very nice correct tail lights. If you are willing to part with the the cowl above the gauges, PM me and I will buy it if you are interested in selling. Not 100 percent sure about the fairing. I have a guy calling me back today about fixing/restoring it. I'll see what he says. He seems very knowledgeable in ABS repair.

One item that I am surprised to see is as hard to come by is the heat shield on the right side that protects your leg. That has a scrape that went deep enough to make a hole as you can see in the picture above. The 500T is different unfortunately. If anyone is willing to part with one, let me know.

 

[demoderbydave]

You're correct about being # 963! Mine is #854...

So YOU are the guy who bought that lens? Actually I have seen people pay WAY more than that for one. so don't feel too bad, you can
always sell the extra one. Put it back on there at the same money and see if someone else bites... Ya never know. I bought that extra cowl on ebay for mine thinking I might mount a satellite radio unit on it but probably will never do it. I will keep an eye out for the heat shield.(my email address is in my profile.)I would be willing to bet a good bodyman/welder could add some metal and fix it... sometimes you have to make parts....

 

[gearhed]

Yep, that was me. now there is only the left lens now. I thought about getting it welded. I might have to at least try if I come up empty handed..

 

[demoderbydave]

Yep, that was me. now there is only the left lens now. I thought about getting it welded. I might have to at least try if I come up empty handed..

If you are on Facebook check out our group..."the gluttons for punishment motorcycle page"...

 

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Update

An update today.

Fairing
I spoke with Chris from msrecycle about repairing the ABS fairing. He sent a few text messages then called and we talked for about 30 minutes. Seems like he has a handle on the ABS welding and genuinely seemed interested in the project. I sent over the pictures of the fairing and he quoted $500 for the repair and paint matching. Since there is a corner missing, he has a few obstacles. I am sending the fairing to him in the next day or two.

Petcock
Ordered parts for the petcock rebuild and the 35X5 o-ring that seals the sending unit. I also broke the sift screen off in the tank and had to find a replacement. Since the sift screen is NLA, someone figured out that the CBX 1000 uses the same sift screen. Tutorial and parts list here -

https://motovillage.org/wiki/hondacxgl/index.php?title=Turbo_Fuel_System#Fuel_Sender_Operation_and_Cleaning

Sending Unit
I started to clean and test the sending unit. It was pretty flaky but it actually cleaned up pretty nice. After setting my multi-meter to the 200 OHM setting, I measured for a sweep from 10-75 OHMS while moving the float up and down.
No Luck getting resistance from the Green (ground) and yellow (signal) wires.

I started to look at everything closely and tried to test the wire connector and probing for continuity. I noticed that the rheostat was not getting ground. I took apart the sending unit and sprayed
everything with electrical contact cleaner and reassembled. I am now getting a sweep of OHMs from 10-75. 10 being empty and 75 being full. NICE!.

I used this guide to get the information I needed. It goes into detail better than I am describing it. I have only given an overview of it here.


https://motovillage.org/wiki/hondacxgl/index.php?title=Turbo_Fuel_System#Fuel_Sender_Operation_and_Cleaning

 

[gearhed]

If you are on Facebook check out our group..."the gluttons for punishment motorcycle page"...

Oh I will check it out! Maybe link this thread over there. I bet they would like to see a 650T brought back to life.

 

[demoderbydave]

Your cousin is now a Glutton for Punishment...hope to see you in our group as well!

 

[gearhed]

Does anyone know if the return line on the petcock should be open? I tried blowing air through it after cleaning it and it is not open. Clogged or does it have a pressure valve built in?

 

[elrodicater]

With the petcock on the vertical/normally open position. you should have an open passage from the fuel regulator back through the petcock and into the tank. Some base info in the Wiki below for reference. Be VERY careful with the petcock - they rare as hens teeth. You will pay dearly to find another. The sock is an interesting design as it allows a gross filter for the inlet, it surrounds the return tube which allows return fuel to re enter the tank. Both of these pieces are unobtanium. The Wiki shows how a CBX part can be made to work for the sock.


On a normal, running turbo with 1/2 tank or less, if you key on and listen before hitting the start button, you can hear return fuel entering back into the tank during the fuel prime sequence.

Use the link below for the standard right of passage to al turbo owners - rebuilding their fuel petcock. You need to do this - trust me.

https://cx500forum.com/forum/cx500-cx650-turbo-forum/28246-diy-fuel-petcock-rebuild-w-pictures.html

Wiki Link
https://motovillage.org/wiki/hondacxgl/index.php?title=Turbo_Fuel_System

 

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elrodicater

Thanks so much for chiming in here! I appreciate your input. I found that exact thread and followed it to the "T". I used the #43 bit and 4-40 tap and used the exact part numbers to replace the old rubber. I managed to drill and tap without any issues. At the moment, I have it rebuilt but I was a little vexed about no airflow passing through the petcock on the return side. I bought the cheapo Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner and ran the petcock and other parts through it 4-5 time but no air is passing still. I also ran some dental style picks into all holes to clean them but still the return seems clogged. Should I keep running it through the Ultrasonic cleaner until I get air flowing through the return?

Here are the pics of the petcock rebuild and also an update of the progress. The petcock was pretty bad...

Finished rebuild

I also managed to get the tail lights sorted out. Looks much better!

Turns out, I do have tenants....... I ran a bore scope down the intake past the reed valves and it looks like the mice left everything alone except the air filter. I have the new Uni stuff already here.

 

[elrodicater]

I would tear down that petcock and chase the holes out until I could get a wire tag size wire through them all. Continue to use the Oven cleaner spray/soak method as well. The ultra sonic probably is not strong enough on its own at this point. Compressed air and elbow grease for the win

 

[gearhed]

I would tear down that petcock and chase the holes out until I could get a wire tag size wire through them all. Continue to use the Oven cleaner spray/soak method as well. The ultra sonic probably is not strong enough on its own at this point. Compressed air and elbow grease for the win

Alright. In the morning I am going to crank the compressor up and soak the petcock in oven cleaner and see what shakes loose.

 

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First Attempt To Start

Video update this time.CORRECTION. In the video, I meant to give credit to elrodicator for the petcock advice.

 

[elrodicater]

Getting closer! I am betting those injectors are plugged solid. Based on what was in your tank, its a sure bet. Pull them using the factory shop manual (FSM). Send them to

https://www.deatschwerks.com/ They have quick service and do a great job. See the WIKI about the JIS screw type. You will not get those screws out without the correct bit. Replacements are 5x18 metric which you can get at your local hardware.

 

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elrodicater

I purchased some JIS screwdrivers just for this bike. They are a snug fit with zero play. I did manage to get the battery charged back up and give it another shot. It is definitely a fuel issue. With a fresh battery and more starting fluid, It ran and revved up to 4K for about 4-5 seconds and sounded good. I think the injectors are giving a tiny bit of fuel. Without starting fluid, I stabbed the start button after the battery was charge and it tried to idle for about a second.

I have the PDF of the FSM from the wiki and I will take a look in the morning about removing the injectors. Just out of curiosity, can they be removed without pulling the intake? With a screwdriver on the injector screws, there is a slight angle which makes me uncomfortable with applying torque. Before I left the garage tonight, I shot the injector screws with some penetrating oil to sit overnight .

Edit - just found edinlrs post here about removing the injectors. Looks like he has done it a few times,lol.

https://cx500forum.com/forum/cx500-cx650-turbo-forum/27380-injector-removal-sending-out-service.html

Oh, BTW. I pulled the ECU out of it's case to check for codes. It seems happy with no lights except all red for a second when keyed on. It doesn't see any problems. Another reason to believe its a fuel blockage.

 

[Rednax]

Did you buy the replacement parts for the petcock yet as detailed on this forum. I have the parts and have offered the parts up to whomever. PM me if you want them. No charge and small enough for normal mail.

 

[gearhed]

Did you buy the replacement parts for the petcock yet as detailed on this forum. I have the parts and have offered the parts up to whomever. PM me if you want them. No charge and small enough for normal mail.

Yes, I already ordered them and rebuilt the petcock. Thanks for the offer. The only item I couldn't find was the original petcock sift screen. I ended up using the CBX1000 sift screen and it works perfectly once you drill a hole in the top for the return tube.