Honda CX 500 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well....first step on the way to reassembly is complete. The new chain is much tighter than before. So much so that I had to fiddle with the chain tensioner and guide in order to get it in. It's compressed to its maximum and I guess my only worry is there is going to be lots of increased resistance on that tensioner guide 'cause it's pushing at full tilt boogie!

Looks like I'm spot on with the shaft key in alignment with the timing mark.

Please excuse the oil dribbles on the cam chain sprocket. I lubed the chain in Rotella prior to installation and I may have overdone it. Also excuse the green towel bits that are plugging the intakes (for safety sake)



New Chain

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,530 Posts
Didn't seem like such a big difference, did it?



Our more "frugal" board members will of course never cede the point.




Looks good, now button it up and keep you fingers crossed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NateDawg...or should I call you "Eagle Eyes"....When I was torquing up the sprocket nuts, the act of tightening them did move the sproket (and engine rotation) slightly clockwise. I was too lazy to correct it to the absolute level 'cause that would have meant getting out my rotor flywheel, starter clutch tumblers and all.... and sliding it back on the shaft and using that as my rotation leverage (Why not use the engine crank bolt you ask?...see below). HOWEVER you can trust me it is completely accurate and aligned. Thanks for noticing and if a prize were to be awarded, you'd be the winner here.



So...this leads me to my next challenge. The engine crank inspection nut/bolt cover. This nut cover is on way too tight. I can't budge it. Sadly, it has become rounded (OK, I'm embarrassed enough about how I could have let this happen...but I did:eek:). I've read about the chisel and other methods of getting these sorts of nuts off. I'm just in the hum and ha mode at the moment. Trying to figure out if I'll ever really need to access this anyway. Your ideas on getting this off are welcomed. I'll probably need to acquire a new cover bolt if I do. Should I use anti-seize compound when reinstalling? Why would this be on so friggin' tight in the first place?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,530 Posts
Some gorilla probably tightened it, add on some corrosion and there ya go.



Can you get a pipe wrench around the rim, CAREFULLY? If you plan on adjusting the valves and a few other maintenance items, it might be a good thing to have an access point. Aesthetically speaking it's a no brainer whether to fix or not.



You could also drill 2 holes as far apart as you can, just slightly smaller than some large sheetrock or deck screws, screw them in (you can put a piece of wood on one side if it's really tight.) With the screws in, put a big screwdriver or prybar between the two and twist. With the extra leverage it should come out easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
So...this leads me to my next challenge. The engine crank inspection nut/bolt cover. This nut cover is on way too tight. I can't budge it. Sadly, it has become rounded (OK, I'm embarrassed enough about how I could have let this happen...but I did:eek:). I've read about the chisel and other methods of getting these sorts of nuts off. I'm just in the hum and ha mode at the moment. Trying to figure out if I'll ever really need to access this anyway. Your ideas on getting this off are welcomed. I'll probably need to acquire a new cover bolt if I do. Should I use anti-seize compound when reinstalling? Why would this be on so friggin' tight in the first place?


I am pretty sure these are rubber/backed or have some sort of rubber gasket/washer that helps hold them on and prevent them from backing off, while providing a good seal. Maybe you can heat this up with a torch to melt the rubber just enough to allow some PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench get into the threads?



Got any pics?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,999 Posts
Usually a good six point socket will get stubborn nuts off.



I actually broke the nut you are trying to get off one time, I don't know but I think it must have been cracked already. I was tightening it up and without much torque applied the nut part broke off leaving the threads in the hole.



I found a socket that just fit inside the threads,,then I added a few drops of weld to the outside of the socket,,I sharpened the weld drops with a file and then tapped it lightly into the threads and was able to get it to turn out. Once the cap broke off, it turned without much trouble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,223 Posts
A method I use which works really well for me is to drill a hole in the side of the bolt part (I go all the way through) and then stick in a drill bit a bit smaller (goes into the hole easy) and use it as a T-Bar handle to unscrew it. If its really tight, a few gentle hammer taps on the drill bit end will usually free it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,422 Posts
Penetrating oil ,heat and vise grips or the 17mm cover.They are the same as the one on the drive box and timing inspection cover at the rear of the engine,if fitted.Same on all models AFAIK.





12361-300-000



http://www.donandroys.com/fiche_sec...ry=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1980&fveh=3399



If yours is the TAI engine don;t forget to align the Advance and Retard unit correctly.They can be fitted 180 Deg out.



HTH
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,223 Posts
Shep, is there a way to mark the Advance and Retard unit when I remove it so I know I have it back in the right spot. Just gathering up all the tip and pointers before pulling the back case of and doing the tripple (hope that seal shows up soon lol)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,422 Posts
I think those who have gone before just use a scribe to mark the top of the Advance and Retard plate to the top of the backing recess rear case or a good marker pen or even a dab of paint across?

Anything really that makes it so you can't get it wrong
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,223 Posts
Perfect :) The mech seal should be here soon, but think I will pull the engine this week end and work on the chain and stator, plus need to replace the tach cover and install the ducati fan which came today, and maybe clean up the starter :) Should keep me buisy until the seal arives
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,422 Posts
Remember that all this work you do now will pay big dividends in the long run<sic>.My other CX500,that is in the garage due to lack of funds,is so boringly reliable<grin> that I've been running my other CX500 for last season and this as it never got a lot of miles on it and it needed more work as it was made out of spares.



I also use it as a,"Test" machine for messing around with things as it owes me nothing.The crank shaft was from US Ebay several years ago and was checked,machine polished and new shells when built.

I put new Valve guides and seals in it last year and running on Molyslip the engine just gets better and better every mile.I reckon the Cam-chain has about 20k left on it but having the two bikes that increases the longevity of each as it were.I'll have to run the other one next year just to keep it sweet so it's getting a slow clean and paint up.

You can't beat owning two of these as it gives you time to work on each so if you spot another one cheap,grab it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,223 Posts
:) Well, want to get mine back to running the best it can, then I will have my baby to ride while I work on the GL1000 I picked up. I must be strange, but I am so looking forward to pulling the engine and doing work on it, even when I cant ride until its done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,422 Posts
:) Well, want to get mine back to running the best it can, then I will have my baby to ride while I work on the GL1000 I picked up. I must be strange, but I am so looking forward to pulling the engine and doing work on it, even when I cant ride until its done.




Ah.I forgot you had the GL1000.That will take much more work I think if you are going into the engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,223 Posts
Well, dont really want to pull the engine on it. I know the carbs and tank will need cleaning, and both calipers and MC as they are shot. I have all the original reciepts and work orders for this bike since birth of all the service it had (went to be serviced 2 times a year). It has been sitting for a couple of years, so I figure a carb rebuild, MC and caliper rebuild and tank cleaning should get it running I hope lol. Just looking at the engine leaves me to believe its a real pain to remove lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,102 Posts
Well done Johnny

progress eh?

I've just done one on my spare lump

and its easy think they're a wee bit off looking at a pic

but like yours its spot on.







By the way those 17mm cover plugs are common as muck and easily available

from any Honda dealer so give it a clout and use PTFE tape (and go easy!)

when installing a new one

Heres the part number

12361-035-000
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,223 Posts
That looks great
cant wait to get mine apart this week end, and with all the pic you have made it so much easier
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top