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Hi All,



I just bought a CX500c, the first that I have owned. I changed the oil in the usual way (heating the engine, draining existing oil, changing filter) but then put in some 20W50 synthetic Shell oil. I didn't run the bike for long after that, a few minutes. But now reading this forum and elsewhere, I realise I should have put in oil that suits a 'wet clutch'. I will do this this weekend but in order to drain the non-wet clutch oil, do I just start the motor, let it idle, heat up and drain? Anything else I should do to clear this oil?



Thanks,



Grant
 

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In your temps 20w50 standard mineral oil will be fine.Just check the bottle.All you need to avoid are the,"Energy Conserving" oils that have friction modifiers.For most people with average temps the recommended oil is 10w40 mineral but I,like many,use 15w40 semi-synthetic Diesel engine oil because of it's better specs.



My 2 cents.



HTH




PS

There are several SA members so use the search function as there may be some you can tie up with if you need help




PPS



Did you change the rear drive oil as well(Type of oil required is embossed on the drive box) and or click here,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/OilChange.htm
 

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i live in north carolina



in the hot summer weather (80 degrees plus) i run 20-50 in all my twins and goldwings and have done so for 40 years with no issue


"Cheap and often better than expensive and forgotten!"
 

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I don't think he really needs to go back and drain out what he put in though. 20-50 synthetic or non-synthetic is ok for the clutch in our machines and he can switch back to cheaper oils on the next oil change. I and many others have switched between synthetics and non-synthetics and back without issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the input, guys. murrayf, those are around the temps (maybe slightly warmer) that I will be riding it in. Will check that the oil doesn't have friction modifiers and take it from there. Cheers.
 

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Thanks for all the input, guys. murrayf, those are around the temps (maybe slightly warmer) that I will be riding it in. Will check that the oil doesn't have friction modifiers and take it from there. Cheers.


As long as the label does not say "Energy Conserving," you are good to go. 15W-50 or 20W-50 synthetic oil is my oil of choice for ALL bikes. The "friction modifier" in question is molybdenum. Wet clutches don't like it because it is too slippery. As a general rule, "Energy Conserving" oils are the lower viscosity synthetics that we wouldn't use in motorcycles anyway, like 0W-20.



I have used Mobil 1 15W-50 in motorcycles for years. A couple years ago, Mobil reduced the ZDDP (zinc/phosphorous anti-wear additive,) from 1,200 ppm to 800 ppm to appease EPA concerns about catalytic converter contamination in cars. This change was reflected by Mobil removing the "Extended Service" from their label. It's still good oil, but if one wants to be especially particular about the oil that they use, Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin oil contains twice as much ZDDP, and contains NO molybdenum. This oil is engineered specifically for wet clutches. It's a little on the spendy side, but it IS the best oil for our bikes. I have no qualms about running that oil 5,000 or even 10,000 miles between changes.
 

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when i rebuild a engine i coat the cam with crane cams moly paste as i do the cam followers then run the engine at 1500 for 5-10 mins on startup



i never wind up with pits in the cam that way



and have never had clutch problems with it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey guys,



Phoned Shell and it turns out that oil did have the friction modifiers I didn't want. Thankfully, I hadn't been riding the bike. Ran it for 10minutes today without riding it / engaging clutch and have now drained and changed all the 'bad' oil... Now on to flushing the radiator and coolant change...



Cheers for the info,



Grant
 

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I don't think he really needs to go back and drain out what he put in though. 20-50 synthetic or non-synthetic is ok for the clutch in our machines and he can switch back to cheaper oils on the next oil change. I and many others have switched between synthetics and non-synthetics and back without issue.
I often do the yearly oil changes with 10w40 semi-Synth. But I burn a lot of oil and I just top it up with the cheapest 20w50 mineral. Oils are mandated to be mixable. If not- it should say on bottle.
 

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When looking for oil, the API donut (yes that is the name) should look like this with no indicators in the lower half, the top half describes the oil standard: API-CK-4-Donut-10W-30.jpg
 

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In case you guys hadn't noticed, everything in this thread before Soggz asked about adding moly powder to oil is 7 years old and the OP hasn't been back since 2013.

Soggz: You still haven't told us why you would want to waste your money that way....
 

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In case you guys hadn't noticed, everything in this thread before Soggz asked about adding moly powder to oil is 7 years old and the OP hasn't been back since 2013.
An "oil thread" might entice the OP back after that long hiatus.....;)
 

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I run used cooking oil. I get it free from McDonalds. It's the same as the stuff they sell at autozone with a ridiculous markup. You guys are all out of your mind.
 
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