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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a small but persistent oil leak from my cam chain tensioner lock bolt. I'm not really sure why since I installed a new o-ring on it only 2 years ago when I changed the cam chain and tensioner. It's enough that it leaves a slick sheen in the valley just below the inspection cap, not a pool of oil or anything but enough that it bothers me. I've tried using clear silicone liquid gasket and that hasn't worked, and I really don't want to have to drop the engine and take the rear cover off just to fix a small leak, but if I can't figure out any other way I may have to. Any suggestions?





EDIT: additional info, it was fine when I put it away in December, could the rubber o-ring have dried out over winter? If so, any chance you think it'll eventually swell and seal again?
 

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I wouldn't think so Rickbert, while I don't use a torque wrench on items like this I have pretty good 'feel'.



Also, I tend to think it shouldn't even matter if you stripped the adjusters threads from the pure perspective of leaks.



I personally think it's that [email protected][email protected] Murphy's doing.
 

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Kingstone,a good quality clear silcon sealer will work.its used on ali.through out the replacement window industry.

buy a small tube of clear dow corning[or the like]

set your lefthand cylinder up to adjust your chain.undo the bolt 1 and 1/2 turns[roughly].give it a tap.

now before you tighten,really clean the bolt shaft and the bolt head,with surrounding case.use thinners and a toothbrush.

apply a small amount around the neck of the bolt[at the nut]only a smear.

tighten up,then put a smear around the joint.it will work.
 

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I've done that, but I'll give your method with the loosening of the adjuster bolt a bash Bandit. Cheers.
because that bolt is not submerged,its only oil mist.the key is to be very clean.once that silicon is trapped between the bolt head and the caseing...bingo.

....hopefully
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bandit and Shep, thanks for the degrease suggestion, I never even thought to do that which is probably why the silicone I've been using isn't working. I need to readjust the valves anyway, so I'll just give the 'loosen and clean' idea a try.
 

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Good thoughts guys, I think mine leaks slightly too, so maybe I will try this out when I do my next maintenance.
 

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Yeah I replaced that at the end of riding season as it was a suspect too. Thanks for mentioning..
 

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Bandit and Shep, thanks for the degrease suggestion, I never even thought to do that which is probably why the silicone I've been using isn't working. I need to readjust the valves anyway, so I'll just give the 'loosen and clean' idea a try.


I use an old toothbrush to get into these little jobs with Brake cleaner.Did the same on one of my Tacho drive Cable insert end but used a cotton bud into that
 

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Bandit and Shep, thanks for the degrease suggestion, I never even thought to do that which is probably why the silicone I've been using isn't working. I need to readjust the valves anyway, so I'll just give the 'loosen and clean' idea a try.
Kingstone,just for your information....dow corning and many other high quality sealers make a primer for their product......so,degrease,prime,apply.

dont ask me how i know.......20 plus years having my own window fiiting company.
 

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No, that's the annoying pisser of it. Not worth pulling the motor for that alone while still hoping there won't be any other reason to pull the motor and rear cover.



To be honest, it should have occurred to me to wind the silicon in with the adjuster bolt, but....., mental blindspot I guess.



I actually wound the bolt out until it hit the rear cover. I knew the flange on the bolt would'nt allow it to come all the way out and I gambled that Honda designed it to be too long for the threads to disengage. Probably took it out by 3 and a half turns.



Thanks for the tip Bandit.
 

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I gambled that Honda designed it to be too long for the threads to disengage. Probably took it out by 3 and a half turns.



Thanks for the tip Bandit.
CP,im sure you know what your doing,but i have a question....

did you not feel any resistance going that far out
 

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No resistance other than the 'drag' of the 'O' ring. No mechanical except for the bolt flange contacting the case.



3.5 turns = 3.5 threads x 1.25mm pitch = about 5mm total movement, not really that far.
 

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No resistance other than the 'drag' of the 'O' ring. No mechanical except for the bolt flange contacting the case.



3.5 turns = 3.5 threads x 1.25mm pitch = about 5mm total movement, not really that far.
interesting.thanks
 
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