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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to start a new thread because this is going way beyond a seat latch. As I said before, this is to get my 1980 CX Custom back on the road after years of sitting and neglect. (Not by my hand!)



The tank has rust in it and will be coated. I pulled the carbs and they still had the old gas in them, and other stuff I can not describe. I guess there must be a trick to doing that as I read the thread on how to do it. I had to lossen the air box to get some clearance. After finding the secret bolt under the regulator. The carb on the left seems to be the master abd the right the slave. I will put the entire mess in a Pine Sol solution and let it start to soak. Don't know if this should be a 50-50 solution or more concentrated. Is this a good way to start this proceedure, using Pine-Sol? Will read the other thread on carb rebuilding. I could not get the bowls off so I tapped them with a plastic hammer. Now I kmow that there are two small allighnment pins on the two screws which break off when you apply lateral pressure! Now I know you need to do the gentle pry method instead.



I think that I need to go over the air box too. The foam seperator in the bottom is nothing but powder. I assume that to get the air box out you have to drop the bracket that it sits on. If that is true, do you have to take off the rear tire to get at the three mystery bolts?



I also tried the aluminum foil and WD-40 trick for pitting on the chrome. Was amaised at how it worked!! One of the mufflers looks like new.



Thanks in advance for any help or advise.







 

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I've heard of it once but I don't know that I have tried. I've tried WD and copper wool. Supposeably copper can't scratch steel but after doing it a few times it will leave faint scratches. Aluminum foil might work better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The reason you use aluminum foil is that it fills in the voids caused by the rust pitting.



BTW the Pine-Sol is working quite well. The throttle plates were "glued" shut and now opperate freely.
 

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Handy trick I gotta try it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am working on the carbs and want to know where to get the rubber plugs. As you can see, they are not reusable! They did not come with the rebuild kit. Actually, I can not believe that they built the carbs with rubber plugs. How about a a screw cap to plug the hole?
 

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Surely there's a piece of fuel line (or equiv) in that size you could plug up with some silicone seal or something?



Does anyone have a detailed picture of one of these plugs (at least semi-intact) and/or the dimensions?



I use some different sized small rubber plugs in my line of work, something might be close enough.
 

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You can make a plug using fuel resistent rubber, about 1/2" thick, and a set of hole punches. Just needs to be a push fit.



There was some talk of useing the end cap off a biro pen.



I used the 2 plastic caps that came on the end of my multimeter probes, they fit perfectly with about 1/2" cut off the ends. I soaked them in fuel overnight to check that they wouldn't melt and was good to go!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for the ideas. I just can't understand why Honda did't tap the hole and put a brass plug in it. Why rubber? How far should the plug go in? I noticed that there is a hole between two of the orifaces which should, obviously, not be blocked.
 

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I used the 2 plastic caps that came on the end of my multimeter probes,



Those vary a little but they're very close to what I'm thinking about, would love to know an ideal OD so I could measure these plugs I use at work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I took the old jets, you get new ones with carb kit, and tuned one of the heads down to the diameter of the carb hole. The one where the rubber plug was. Cut off the treaded portion with a hack saw. Now I need to seal off the small hole in it. I thought that epoxies were gas proof. Evidentally not. What is? This will be a friction fit with a little blue lock tight.



Speaking of carb kits, Why does it seem that you get o rings or other parts that do not fit?? Case in point is the o ring at the bottom of the idle mixture needle adjuster. Do you just go to the hardware store to buy them?
 

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I used the 2 plastic caps that came on the end of my multimeter probes,



Those vary a little but they're very close to what I'm thinking about, would love to know an ideal OD so I could measure these plugs I use at work.


OK, I brought one home and will take a picture of it in time. These are made to plug the ends of a 3/16" brass barb fitting.



OD is 0.335" on the end with the hole and it tapers down to right around 0.3" before it turns into a closed dome. Length = 0.5" hole is a litle less than 0.4" deep
 
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