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1978 CX500
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m a bit frustrated trying to get these things to fit on my 78’. I ordered the non upswept.

The stock “header” pipes are 1.5” OD, the 1.75” ID of the Murray’s pipes would be an extremely big gap to fill. There also seems to be no way to fit around the brake pedal with the pipe butting up against the header’s joint ring.

I didn’t want to risk welding my mid pipes into one fixed position, so I welded 4” long 1.5” ID pipes onto the header pipes. This gives the Murray’s pipes something to slip over, allowing me to adjust both back and forth placement and also rotation.

But the bend on my “RF” pipe doesn’t clear the brake pedal unless I were to extend the front connection by another 1-2”.

I’m looking for pictures of an install on the right side. I’m not going to attempt the left side until I know that these bends will actually fit my bike.
 

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Super Moderator
'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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Murray states both on the page for the pipes on his site and the forum thread about them that his pipes are intended to slip over the rings on the headers and be welded to the rings. This was done so that you can still use the headers if the part that was inside the H box is rotted.
He also mentions that you can cut the ends of his pipes to suit your needs. I can't imagine any application where you would need to extend stock headers to get the bends in Murray's pipes to fit around the pedals.

This thread has a few pics and some discussion
 

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I’m a bit frustrated trying to get these things to fit on my 78’. I ordered the non upswept.

The stock “header” pipes are 1.5” OD, the 1.75” ID of the Murray’s pipes would be an extremely big gap to fill. There also seems to be no way to fit around the brake pedal with the pipe butting up against the header’s joint ring.

I didn’t want to risk welding my mid pipes into one fixed position, so I welded 4” long 1.5” ID pipes onto the header pipes. This gives the Murray’s pipes something to slip over, allowing me to adjust both back and forth placement and also rotation.

But the bend on my “RF” pipe doesn’t clear the brake pedal unless I were to extend the front connection by another 1-2”.

I’m looking for pictures of an install on the right side. I’m not going to attempt the left side until I know that these bends will actually fit my bike.
some thing here is not right you usually have to trim the fron t of the pipe 1-1.5 inch to get it to fall into alignment send me some pictures so i can see
i havesold thousands of these and not had issues with the pattern in the last 10 years
 

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1978 CX500
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Is my brake pedal bent? I unfortunately don’t have anything to reference it against. My parts bike doesn’t have one. Trying to compare it to eBay pictures makes it look like it may’ve been bent at a steeper angle.
 

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1978 CX500
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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At last, clearance! I managed to contact the PO of the bike, he mentioned that he had indeed dropped the bike once and bent the pedal. Some heat and some light massaging got the pedal back in position
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I don't think it should be that low.

BTW, there should be dimples on the end of the shaft and on the clamping part of the pedal for alignment (this is in the FSM somewhere). The pedal may have been off the shaft any number of times over the last 44 years so I'd advise checking that before making any adjustments to the pedal's arm.
 

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1978 CX500
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't think it should be that low.

BTW, there should be dimples on the end of the shaft and on the clamping part of the pedal for alignment (this is in the FSM somewhere). The pedal may have been off the shaft any number of times over the last 44 years so I'd advise checking that before making any adjustments to the pedal's arm.
clamping that will not work it will vibrate and come loose or break the end of the pipe as the muffler will be pulling down and forcing tue pipe
up which is why its welded

I left it as a slip fit with clamp so that it would be secure while I adjusted the positioning of things. Once it’s all said and done I can weld it into place.
 
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