Honda CX 500 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I pulled the valve covers, radiator end pieces and the clutch cover to polish. Turned out ok, so I reassembled the parts back on to the bike. It had warmed up a bit yesterday, so I thought I would start her up. Turned on the petcock and saw nothing going through the filter. Pulled the gas line off and no flow. Pulled the tank off and removed the petcock It was full of a tar like substance wich completely stoped the flow of fuel. Gas came out of the tank when I tipped it, but the gas was straw colored.



Many of you have seen my eailier posts as to what I did with the neglected tank, which was badly rusted. Flushed it out several times with water and then used the POR 15 process. I made sure the tank was dry before using the coating, hair drier for three days. Did not put gas in the tank for a month. My question is is there anything that I can do to fix the problem, or should I be looking into replacing the tank?



I cleaned out the petcock and got fuel to flow through the filter. When I tried to start it, both carbs were overflowing gas. I taped them with a screw driver thinking the floats were stuck. No luck. The bike never started or even popped. Figured it was massively flooded. Let it sit and tried to start it with the petcock turned off. Still no luck.



I realize that this is two questions, but I think they may be related, ie particles got past the filter and clogged the needle valves. I think that I may have found a nos tank in the correct color. Pricey but don't know if I can go through the tank cleaning again. Any ideas or suggestions would be most appreciated.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
The tank was full of a tar like substance or the petcock?



What color was the Por tank liner. It was tank liner right? The stuff I use is silver and sticks to the wall of anything.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
Just read it again and it doesn't mention anything about using a chemical to remove the rust before adding por 15. That would mean that the underside could still rust but Por 15 is so sticky that I would think it would still hold up to making a good coat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The petcock was full of the tar like substance. Had to take it appart and re clean it. The POR was a kit. High strength cleaner, acid etch, and the sealer, wich was silver. I did get the bike running, somewhat. Only on the right cylinder. I think the tarish stuff is from the remnants of the old gas as well as rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
How long has the fuel been in the tank?

A few years ago i used to run a bike breakers over here in the uk, we used to import bikes from the states, we found that even if the bike had only been laid up for a few months the fuel, if there was any in the tank and carbs had turned to tar / varnish, absolute b'stard to remove.

We used to have to get an ultrasonic bath to clean the stuff out because it blocks everything.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
Well he obviously did it to the best of his knowledge. Maybe there is something else that explains the sledge.



I would take the tank off and rinse it out and see what can be seen with one of those led flex lights. If the tank is clean then I would continue to use it. Clean the petcock or replace and inspect the carbs. If you spray some light starting fluid in the air box does the bike start on both cylinders.
 

·
Registered
1980 Honda CX500C
Joined
·
307 Posts
the beauty of POR-15 coatings is that they stick to and neutralize rust. tanks will not continue to rot wherever the POR has touched the rust.



as for the sludgy gas.......the POR tank lining is silver. was the tank previously coated before the POR?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The gas is only a month old. The tank was not previouly coated.















This is what came out of the tank when it was flushed with water last fall. Hopeless???
 

·
Registered
1980 Honda CX500C
Joined
·
307 Posts
Something went wrong...maybe you got a bad can of the sealer.....we've gotten bad clear before, where 3 days later it was just as wet as when it was sprayed.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
Did you completely roll the tank around while coating it? How much por 15 did you use? Pint, Quart?



Can you see anywhere inside the tank that isn't coated?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All valid questions, Don. It was a pint, because I ordered the kit to do motorcycle tanks and that is what was enclosed. I did roll the tank until I thought my arms would fall off! I guess if you had to sum it up, there probably is a spot where the tank was not coated. Can not think of any other reason. Looked as though it was all covered, but without a procto scope, I can not be certain! I did think when I was doing the process that there should have been more of the coating remaining that would have poured out of the tank as excess. Perhaps the tank was so badly pitted that it created more surface area to coat. This is all speculation. Perhaps the por company should market two kits, one for small tanks and one for larger tanks.



I did send por an e-mail to solicit their comments about what has happened. Have not heard from them as of yet. I guess the question is, can I recoat over the previous coat or does the tank have to be stripped. Not a fun job in the winter! I surely can not leave the tank the way it is!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
I think Larry asked Por about the double coat thing and they said no. When I do mine I use a quart because it gets everywhere. If I had a solid tank besides my stock tank I would let you have it. I do have one that was good but it had been cleaned for lining and never made it there. So it has surface rust. Could use a good acid cleaning or evaporust and then coating.
 

·
Registered
1980 Honda CX500C
Joined
·
307 Posts
When i did my tank, The can i had was tiny, maybe 1 cup of sealer. i dumped it in, rolled it around and drained. i got 70% of the sealer back, and the tank is completely coated on the inside.
 

·
Registered
1980 Honda CX500C
Joined
·
307 Posts
When i did my tank, The can i had was tiny, maybe 1 cup of sealer. i dumped it in, rolled it around and drained. i got 70% of the sealer back, and the tank is completely coated on the inside.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
When I did mine I think the hardest thing was the tunnel of the tank. That's why i'm glad I used a quart. I also did two back to back and poured out 7/8ths of a quart or so. Would still have it if the stuff didn't react to the air/humidity so bad.



Larry has a process where he gets about 8 tanks out of a quart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I drained the tank and there were ribbons of snotty looking stuff in there. Nasty! I checked on the Por web site and you only get a half pint of coating material in a kit. They make a kit that includes the stripper for $5 more. You can also get another half pint of coating for $11.50. May go that route.



I receive a responce from tham and they said that I probably did not have the tank completely dry. Don't think so but could be. I basically think it sould have been double washed with another bottle of their marine cleaner and also should have used more of the coating material. I was also thinking of using Pine-Sol to wash out the tank first. Hate to give them more businees, but don't see a lot of other options.



I guess that is the purpose of the web forum. To learn from others mistakes. Have to blow snow again. At least my thirty year old snow blower still runs great!!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
The method that Larry uses is the best and cheapest for me. Rinse with a cup of muriatic acid to the 3 gallons or so water. Don't get it on your hands. But if the rust is extreme it may take a few hours to eat it off. If it's light it might take 20 minutes or less. The rinse with the tank out thoroughly. Followed by another rinse of acetone. The acetone will partially evaporate off causing less problems than the water. Then blow it out with an air compressor. Till it's dry.





If you let it sit to long flash rust will build up and I don't know if the por 15 will stick to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If I used the muriatic acid, would I have to seperately strip the old por with the product they sell? Or will the acid eat through it?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,414 Posts
I don't think the acid will eat the por. Never tried. I didn't realize there was a chemical made by them that would eat it. Unlike the other sealers that melt down with acetone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
503 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Tried taking the tank to a radiator shop that does tanks and they would not touch it because it was previously coated. Did anyone use the stripper from por and what kind of success did you have? Por says it will work. Also, should I preceed it with muriatic acid? Things are not looking good in muddville!
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top