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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I disassembled and cleaned the MC, cleaned and installed new seals in the calipers, bought a set of hoses off e-bay. When I operate the brake lever with the hose removed, with my thumb over the outlet hole, it works like a charm. When I install the hose I can't get it to push any fluid.



Is there a secret method to bleeding these things?



Thanks in advance, Hobbit
 

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The method that works for me is to first tighten everything up, fill the m/c with fluid, open the banjo bolt on the caliper until a stream of fluid appears and then tighten it. Then, with the top of the m/c open, I give the brake lever small squeezes which will allow air that is still in the line to bubble up through the fluid return hole (the smaller of the two holes) in the m/c. Once the bubbles stop appearing, refill the m/c to the proper level and begin bleeding by opening the bleeder bolt while squeezing the brake lever fully. Re-tighten the bleeder hole before releasing the brake lever. This step will possibly need to repeated a dozen or more times, but by the fourth or fifth time you should see fluid begin to flow through the bleeder, and just squeezing the lever should begin to give you some resistance and therefore braking action.



I did find that even with cleaning and rebuilding my original m/c I still could not make it work, so I bought an aftermarket m/c from USAMotorcycles on the 'bay. Also, if you don't see the small bubbles while doing the small squeezes it is very possible that the return hole is plugged and will need to be opened. To do that I ground a .018" guitar string down to almost a pinpoint on my my grinder. It is a TINY hole.



HTH.
 

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I had this same problem. I attached each hose to the mc and depressed the lever. I had resistance on one hose. What I mean is no fluid was coming through once I depressed the lever. I attached the other end of that hose to the mc and pulled the lever and fluid came through. It took me 15 mins after that to bleed the system with the conventional method.
 

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If not allergic to brake fluid.



Open bleed nipple and place bleed tube into jar filled with enough old fluid so the tube is below the level so as to disallow any air to get back up the tube unless you have a,"Single Man" bleeder,



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KD-2...Z260655897614QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools



Top up MC.



Smear some brake fluid on your hand and press hard onto the top of the MC to form a seal and then squeeze the brake lever medium speed several times until fluid begins to pump through.



Note:You can use saliva if you have enough.



Keep topping up and bleeding until all air is out of the system and then tighten the bleed nipple.





HTH
 

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I've successfully done a reverse bleed, syringe and hose connected to the bleed nipple, and pushed fluid from the bottom up. Helpful on dual disc set ups with multiple lines and t junction with lots of places for air to hang up.
 

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Another "technique" is 300 squeezes of the brake lever. Sometimes that's what it takes to build pressure. Yes it's boring but it's worked for me numerous times. Give a full squeeze, wait two seconds, squeeze, repeat.
 

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I find that "priming" the master while still on the bench helps also. I jam a very small funnel in the banjo bolt hole (facing up) then fill with brake fluid and give it a few pumps...seems to "suck" in some fluid. Then I cover the hole with my finger and transfer onto the bike with some help of a daughter. I seem to always get fluid movement right away.
 
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