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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got tired of looking at the batery and repositioned it out of sight. Hope you enjoy the pix[attachment=579:CX cafe racer.jpg][attachment=580:Mikuni flat slides.jpg]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
oh yeah i like it. But where’s the battery? I might go this way too... Any problem relocating it?
It is under the engine just forward of the swingarm. I used the R1 batery. The batery box had to be made and welded up. The 2 holes in the brakets each side were used to bolt the box to the frame. I already made 2 of these and they clean up the midsection of the bike
 

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looks good. the second one looks like quite a piece of work! I’m not there yet. I’m not sure I can use a R1 battery (I guess its the small model) because I’m not sure if they fit my harsh cold spring and automn.



That space makes a hugh difference in the look for sure.
 

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I'm not sure if I like the battery placement but I hope you don't run into a place that causes contact with the ground. Oddly enough I have made contact with my bike in that area. Speed bumps suck.



Can we get a picture of more of the shifter. It's an interesting thought.
 

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I'm also interested in that shift setup



It's got me beat as to how it works?



could it also have been done with something a bit simpler ?? or did you plan it this way

very innovative either way...

 

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I'm also interested in that shift setup



It's got me beat as to how it works?



could it also have been done with something a bit simpler ?? or did you plan it this way

very innovative either way...



We're talking about steam punk. We're glad that he didn't find a way to fabricate a steam tube to push the shifter up and another to push it down. In sync with the clutch lever of course.



I believe it's just simple movement. The shifter probably only moves the gear 1/8 turn either way which is enough to push the shifter up and down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We're talking about steam punk. We're glad that he didn't find a way to fabricate a steam tube to push the shifter up and another to push it down. In sync with the clutch lever of course.



I believe it's just simple movement. The shifter probably only moves the gear 1/8 turn either way which is enough to push the shifter up and down.
It is a simple movement but I had to modify it again as the brackets are bending. It almost works now but still needs beefing up on the brackets. This setup has taken a ton of time (8hr) so far and still not working as it should. It will work with stronger brackets and I will post pix as soon as it is completed. I will make another mechanism for my bike but that one will use gears instead of chains. Steam tube to push the gear selector, good tought, I have to think about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm not sure if I like the battery placement but I hope you don't run into a place that causes contact with the ground. Oddly enough I have made contact with my bike in that area. Speed bumps suck.



Can we get a picture of more of the shifter. It's an interesting thought.
7.5" ground clearence, way more than any sportbike out there
 

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I got tired of looking at the batery and repositioned it out of sight. Hope you enjoy the pix[attachment=579:CX cafe racer.jpg][attachment=580:Mikuni flat slides.jpg]


hi there happy new year.Nice job you have done,I also like your shift link idea,what carbs are those and from what bike?Iwas thinking to use two FCR 38 I think,as for the 38 Iam not sure,here another idea of shift lever but i think your idea is much more different than this but a very good one









keep us posting your well done job
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That is a nice set of foot rests. Wery high quality work. I am building the bike for my friend and he wanted something that no one else had so the chain drive idea was conceived. Also it takes a bit less machining to finish the chain drive. There are many ways to get unique shifters made. The next one will be all gears and the one after may be cable driven. A hydraulic one would be cool too. The carbs are from a Polaris snowmobile. They are 38mms' but not sure of the model. I am in the process of making another set to fit the CX but am waiting on a set of intake manifolds before I start. I did not realise that there are 2 types of manifolds, one short and one long, and they have diferences in width. The carbs need to be taken appart and spaced to fit the manifolds. Not a dificult job the second time around once you now what the spacing needs to be. With your machining skills it should not be a difficult project. The carbs work great with the oversized exhaust system.
 

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That is a nice set of foot rests. Wery high quality work. I am building the bike for my friend and he wanted something that no one else had so the chain drive idea was conceived. Also it takes a bit less machining to finish the chain drive. There are many ways to get unique shifters made. The next one will be all gears and the one after may be cable driven. A hydraulic one would be cool too. The carbs are from a Polaris snowmobile. They are 38mms' but not sure of the model. I am in the process of making another set to fit the CX but am waiting on a set of intake manifolds before I start. I did not realise that there are 2 types of manifolds, one short and one long, and they have diferences in width. The carbs need to be taken appart and spaced to fit the manifolds. Not a dificult job the second time around once you now what the spacing needs to be. With your machining skills it should not be a difficult project. The carbs work great with the oversized exhaust system.


I measured with a simple tape measure about 6.25" for the CX carb spacing? What is the exact measurement?

To make a new rack shouldn't be that difficult?

Cheers, 50gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I measured with a simple tape measure about 6.25" for the CX carb spacing? What is the exact measurement?

To make a new rack shouldn't be that difficult?

Cheers, 50gary
As soon as i get the intakes I will post step by step instructions with dimensions. This should be acomplished this week time permiting. You do not need a new rack just spacers to get the proper fit. I started on the air filters yesterday and have pix but no time to post. They needed to be cut as the inside cone is the only part used. Now I need to make an adapter for the rubber seal. You can buy a 6" digital caliper for as litle as $10 or splurge and get the Harbor Freight one for $15. The "8 caliper is also handy if you are beyond the 6" mark like in this case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The carbs and filters are done. With these carbs the spacing is acomplished with .987" spacers.

[attachment=607:p1010057i.jpg]Cutting up the air filter

[attachment=608:p1010059d.jpg]Air filter sub components

[attachment=609:p1010061y.jpg]Completed filter

[attachment=610:p1010063m.jpg]Different carbs from top CX500 narow carbs Mikuni flatslides and cx 500 wide carbs

[attachment=611:p1010072q.jpg]Fuel inlet

[attachment=612:p1010073f.jpg]Throtle slides bar with spacer

[attachment=613:p1010076a.jpg]completed carbs ready for install when the choke bar gets the spacer welded
 

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Hey Scudman, I'm bidding on a set of the TM-38 carbs. What did you come up with for the jetting? I'm running a two into one fairly large tube headers. It's a stepped system that I built. The rack spacing shouldn't be too much trouble but I would like to get in the ball park with the jets. Funny, I went to the local snowmobile salvage yard yesterday and the first set of carbs I pick up are from a Polaris XC SP 600 and they are the correct ones. The guy says $275.00 then comes down $25.00 to $250.00 yeah right I walk. ebay $75.00 BTW seems half the sleds with twin cylinders from about 1997 upwards have the TM 38 until the engine get in to the 800CC range then it's 40mm carbs I'm also watching a pair of really nice Mikunis from a '97 600CC Yamaha V-Max but they're 35mm according to the answer I got from the auction seller. Seems odd to be 35mm when the Yamaha engine size is 600CC

Cheers, 50gary
 
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