Ok guys help me out here i am building this post to help all of you install tune and maintain these carbs
it will take me several days to post this and get it organized
PLEASE DONT POST ANYTHING HERE
let me get this done
there is a carb swap thread underway for comments and questions please use that
first i will add all the photos in correct order then all the copy instructions for the installation
if this is kept clean it can then be transferred to wiki
Thanks for all your help and support
Murray
I feel i must state the following to protect my self so please understand
a member eligible to get the Current member price on the carb kit (to close to cost )
Must have been a member from the start of the thread "Carb Swap" so August 1 2012
Any members joining after that will receive a 10 percent forum discount from regular price
i have already had contact from people who think if they join now they will do it just to get
the membership price and frankly i will never pay off my production jigs and development costs at that price
let alone make any money
i hope this is clear and the past/future membership understands
Note i have now put out quite a few of these kits and come to the following place:
People are having some issues assembling the carbs to the cable, and, tuning and balancing the carbs
when they are right out of the box!!!
So, instead of spending my time on the phone talking people thru this I have taken the steps
of actually assembling, mounting and running, and, tuning and balancing each and every set of carbs. Then I'm
draining and shipping them. This may add 20 dollars to each kit for my time, but it also makes the kits 20-25
minutes to install and you are off and riding!
So, the instructions have changed.
Remove Tank
Remove center motor mount hanger
Remove carbs and intake boots
Remove throttle cables and choke cable
Make sure heads are cleaned where intakes go on
Make sure port is clean afterwards
STEP ONE
Place carbs on engine so they don't fall
Feed cable down left side of bike and thru left fork tube
Attach cable to throttle
STEP TWO
Clean inside of intake manifolds in case something got in them
Remove the spigot flange that is loosly on the intake
Apply a bit of silicone sealant to the flange mating surface
Install and tighten the 2 allen bolts
Place provided o-ring on the intake using a bit of silicone sealant
Install the intake manifolds (Long one on the left. Short one on the right.)
Tighten them down
STEP THREE
Arrange spigot flange hose clamps so they are on the outside
of each intake and the screw is pointing down
Loosen the hose clamp so carbs can slip in
STEP FOUR
Install fuel lines provided (The long one goes to right carb.
The next longest goes to left carb. The shortest to fuel tank)
NOTE
For now while I can get them: the right carb idle scew faces out to the right side.
The left side idle screw faces out to the left side
STEP FIVE
Attach fuel line to right side carb and push it on till you can't see
any of the brass
Slide the right side carb into the spigot flange and make sure it
is popped into the locking groove. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT. Make sure
the carb is all the way in the rubber just like the stock carbs
STEP 6
Attach the fuel line to the left carb making sure the line is pushed down
all the way and the brass is fully covered. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CARB YET.
STEP SEVEN
Point both chrome cable elbows towards the middle of the bike
and reinstall center motor mount and tighten
STEP EIGHT
Check that the cable is routed correctly and in one of the clips at the front or
zip tie near the front of the carrier so it won't get pinched
STEP TEN
Place fuel tank on bike
Now look underneath and make sure chrome cable elbows are not hitting the
tank. If they are, move them as needed or you can also rotate the carb tops
in slightly to move the elbows in. Once all is good, tighten carb clamps
making sure the carbs are in the spigots all the way
Look at remaing fuel line that goes to tank and decide where you are putting
your fuel filter
STEP ELEVEN
If you have to remove the tank, cut remaining fuel line and install filter
where you want it
Some of you have a smaller petcock tube and the supplied fuel line is too big
Take a piece of your old fuel line, place it on the petcock and cut it off
1/8 of an inch past the end of the metal tube. This will act as an adapter for the
larger fuel line supplied. Install fuel line on petcock making sure it is
pushed on all the way and tight. You may want to clamp it or place a zip tie on it.
Install tank bolt and seat.
STEP TWELVE
Adjust slack adjuster at throttle to remove as much play in the throttle as
you can. Tighten lock nuts on cable.
STEP THIRTEEN
Make sure both throttle slides open and close properly and are returning to
the idle position. When you let go of the throttle, you can actually feel them
hit the idle stop. Once you know they are opening and closing properly
and smoothly you can put your pods on and tighten.
STEP FOURTEEN
Open petcock and inspect all connections and carbs for fuel leaks.
Take at least a minute to do this so the carbs are full while you are checking.
Look at both carbs and make sure the fuel lines are still pushed all the way
down on the brass fuel fittings. Correct as needed.
STEP FIFTEEN
CHECK EVERYTHING AGAIN!!!
STEP SIXTEEN
Push down on both choke levers and start bike.
It will be idling on fast idle. When you hear the idle start to drop
you can click off choke levers.
Open and close the throttle to help warm the engine till it idles
smoothly while you check again for any fuel air vacuum leaks.
STEP SEVENTEEN
Install crash helmet and other gear and go for a tear.
Your bike has changed drastically so feel it out.
DO NOT CRACK THE THROTTLE from a dead standstill!
Until you know how the bike responds, it might bite you!
After your test ride once the smile has stopped interfering with your ability to see,
check all connections and mounting hardware and clamps for leaks, looseness, ect.
Be safe and have a blast!!
I will be adding pictures later today and cleaning up leftover pics.
it will take me several days to post this and get it organized
PLEASE DONT POST ANYTHING HERE
let me get this done
there is a carb swap thread underway for comments and questions please use that
first i will add all the photos in correct order then all the copy instructions for the installation
if this is kept clean it can then be transferred to wiki
Thanks for all your help and support
Murray
I feel i must state the following to protect my self so please understand
a member eligible to get the Current member price on the carb kit (to close to cost )
Must have been a member from the start of the thread "Carb Swap" so August 1 2012
Any members joining after that will receive a 10 percent forum discount from regular price
i have already had contact from people who think if they join now they will do it just to get
the membership price and frankly i will never pay off my production jigs and development costs at that price
let alone make any money
i hope this is clear and the past/future membership understands
Note i have now put out quite a few of these kits and come to the following place:
People are having some issues assembling the carbs to the cable, and, tuning and balancing the carbs
when they are right out of the box!!!
So, instead of spending my time on the phone talking people thru this I have taken the steps
of actually assembling, mounting and running, and, tuning and balancing each and every set of carbs. Then I'm
draining and shipping them. This may add 20 dollars to each kit for my time, but it also makes the kits 20-25
minutes to install and you are off and riding!
So, the instructions have changed.
Remove Tank
Remove center motor mount hanger
Remove carbs and intake boots
Remove throttle cables and choke cable
Make sure heads are cleaned where intakes go on
Make sure port is clean afterwards
STEP ONE
Place carbs on engine so they don't fall
Feed cable down left side of bike and thru left fork tube
Attach cable to throttle
STEP TWO
Clean inside of intake manifolds in case something got in them
Remove the spigot flange that is loosly on the intake
Apply a bit of silicone sealant to the flange mating surface
Install and tighten the 2 allen bolts
Place provided o-ring on the intake using a bit of silicone sealant
Install the intake manifolds (Long one on the left. Short one on the right.)
Tighten them down
STEP THREE
Arrange spigot flange hose clamps so they are on the outside
of each intake and the screw is pointing down
Loosen the hose clamp so carbs can slip in
STEP FOUR
Install fuel lines provided (The long one goes to right carb.
The next longest goes to left carb. The shortest to fuel tank)
NOTE
For now while I can get them: the right carb idle scew faces out to the right side.
The left side idle screw faces out to the left side
STEP FIVE
Attach fuel line to right side carb and push it on till you can't see
any of the brass
Slide the right side carb into the spigot flange and make sure it
is popped into the locking groove. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT. Make sure
the carb is all the way in the rubber just like the stock carbs
STEP 6
Attach the fuel line to the left carb making sure the line is pushed down
all the way and the brass is fully covered. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CARB YET.
STEP SEVEN
Point both chrome cable elbows towards the middle of the bike
and reinstall center motor mount and tighten
STEP EIGHT
Check that the cable is routed correctly and in one of the clips at the front or
zip tie near the front of the carrier so it won't get pinched
STEP TEN
Place fuel tank on bike
Now look underneath and make sure chrome cable elbows are not hitting the
tank. If they are, move them as needed or you can also rotate the carb tops
in slightly to move the elbows in. Once all is good, tighten carb clamps
making sure the carbs are in the spigots all the way
Look at remaing fuel line that goes to tank and decide where you are putting
your fuel filter
STEP ELEVEN
If you have to remove the tank, cut remaining fuel line and install filter
where you want it
Some of you have a smaller petcock tube and the supplied fuel line is too big
Take a piece of your old fuel line, place it on the petcock and cut it off
1/8 of an inch past the end of the metal tube. This will act as an adapter for the
larger fuel line supplied. Install fuel line on petcock making sure it is
pushed on all the way and tight. You may want to clamp it or place a zip tie on it.
Install tank bolt and seat.
STEP TWELVE
Adjust slack adjuster at throttle to remove as much play in the throttle as
you can. Tighten lock nuts on cable.
STEP THIRTEEN
Make sure both throttle slides open and close properly and are returning to
the idle position. When you let go of the throttle, you can actually feel them
hit the idle stop. Once you know they are opening and closing properly
and smoothly you can put your pods on and tighten.
STEP FOURTEEN
Open petcock and inspect all connections and carbs for fuel leaks.
Take at least a minute to do this so the carbs are full while you are checking.
Look at both carbs and make sure the fuel lines are still pushed all the way
down on the brass fuel fittings. Correct as needed.
STEP FIFTEEN
CHECK EVERYTHING AGAIN!!!
STEP SIXTEEN
Push down on both choke levers and start bike.
It will be idling on fast idle. When you hear the idle start to drop
you can click off choke levers.
Open and close the throttle to help warm the engine till it idles
smoothly while you check again for any fuel air vacuum leaks.
STEP SEVENTEEN
Install crash helmet and other gear and go for a tear.
Your bike has changed drastically so feel it out.
DO NOT CRACK THE THROTTLE from a dead standstill!
Until you know how the bike responds, it might bite you!
After your test ride once the smile has stopped interfering with your ability to see,
check all connections and mounting hardware and clamps for leaks, looseness, ect.
Be safe and have a blast!!
I will be adding pictures later today and cleaning up leftover pics.
