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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys help me out here i am building this post to help all of you install tune and maintain these carbs



it will take me several days to post this and get it organized



PLEASE DONT POST ANYTHING HERE




let me get this done





there is a carb swap thread underway for comments and questions please use that



first i will add all the photos in correct order then all the copy instructions for the installation



if this is kept clean it can then be transferred to wiki



Thanks for all your help and support



Murray



I feel i must state the following to protect my self so please understand



a member eligible to get the Current member price on the carb kit (to close to cost )



Must have been a member from the start of the thread "Carb Swap" so August 1 2012



Any members joining after that will receive a 10 percent forum discount from regular price



i have already had contact from people who think if they join now they will do it just to get



the membership price and frankly i will never pay off my production jigs and development costs at that price



let alone make any money



i hope this is clear and the past/future membership understands





Note i have now put out quite a few of these kits and come to the following place:



People are having some issues assembling the carbs to the cable, and, tuning and balancing the carbs



when they are right out of the box!!!



So, instead of spending my time on the phone talking people thru this I have taken the steps



of actually assembling, mounting and running, and, tuning and balancing each and every set of carbs. Then I'm



draining and shipping them. This may add 20 dollars to each kit for my time, but it also makes the kits 20-25



minutes to install and you are off and riding!




So, the instructions have changed.





Remove Tank



Remove center motor mount hanger



Remove carbs and intake boots



Remove throttle cables and choke cable



Make sure heads are cleaned where intakes go on



Make sure port is clean afterwards



STEP ONE



Place carbs on engine so they don't fall



Feed cable down left side of bike and thru left fork tube



Attach cable to throttle



STEP TWO



Clean inside of intake manifolds in case something got in them



Remove the spigot flange that is loosly on the intake



Apply a bit of silicone sealant to the flange mating surface



Install and tighten the 2 allen bolts



Place provided o-ring on the intake using a bit of silicone sealant



Install the intake manifolds (Long one on the left. Short one on the right.)



Tighten them down



STEP THREE



Arrange spigot flange hose clamps so they are on the outside



of each intake and the screw is pointing down



Loosen the hose clamp so carbs can slip in



STEP FOUR



Install fuel lines provided (The long one goes to right carb.



The next longest goes to left carb. The shortest to fuel tank)





NOTE



For now while I can get them: the right carb idle scew faces out to the right side.



The left side idle screw faces out to the left side





STEP FIVE



Attach fuel line to right side carb and push it on till you can't see



any of the brass



Slide the right side carb into the spigot flange and make sure it



is popped into the locking groove. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT. Make sure



the carb is all the way in the rubber just like the stock carbs



STEP 6



Attach the fuel line to the left carb making sure the line is pushed down



all the way and the brass is fully covered. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CARB YET.



STEP SEVEN



Point both chrome cable elbows towards the middle of the bike



and reinstall center motor mount and tighten



STEP EIGHT



Check that the cable is routed correctly and in one of the clips at the front or



zip tie near the front of the carrier so it won't get pinched





STEP TEN



Place fuel tank on bike



Now look underneath and make sure chrome cable elbows are not hitting the



tank. If they are, move them as needed or you can also rotate the carb tops



in slightly to move the elbows in. Once all is good, tighten carb clamps



making sure the carbs are in the spigots all the way



Look at remaing fuel line that goes to tank and decide where you are putting



your fuel filter



STEP ELEVEN



If you have to remove the tank, cut remaining fuel line and install filter



where you want it



Some of you have a smaller petcock tube and the supplied fuel line is too big



Take a piece of your old fuel line, place it on the petcock and cut it off



1/8 of an inch past the end of the metal tube. This will act as an adapter for the



larger fuel line supplied. Install fuel line on petcock making sure it is



pushed on all the way and tight. You may want to clamp it or place a zip tie on it.



Install tank bolt and seat.



STEP TWELVE



Adjust slack adjuster at throttle to remove as much play in the throttle as



you can. Tighten lock nuts on cable.



STEP THIRTEEN



Make sure both throttle slides open and close properly and are returning to



the idle position. When you let go of the throttle, you can actually feel them



hit the idle stop. Once you know they are opening and closing properly



and smoothly you can put your pods on and tighten.



STEP FOURTEEN



Open petcock and inspect all connections and carbs for fuel leaks.



Take at least a minute to do this so the carbs are full while you are checking.



Look at both carbs and make sure the fuel lines are still pushed all the way



down on the brass fuel fittings. Correct as needed.



STEP FIFTEEN



CHECK EVERYTHING AGAIN!!!



STEP SIXTEEN



Push down on both choke levers and start bike.



It will be idling on fast idle. When you hear the idle start to drop



you can click off choke levers.



Open and close the throttle to help warm the engine till it idles



smoothly while you check again for any fuel air vacuum leaks.



STEP SEVENTEEN



Install crash helmet and other gear and go for a tear.



Your bike has changed drastically so feel it out.



DO NOT CRACK THE THROTTLE from a dead standstill!



Until you know how the bike responds, it might bite you!



After your test ride once the smile has stopped interfering with your ability to see,



check all connections and mounting hardware and clamps for leaks, looseness, ect.



Be safe and have a blast!!









I will be adding pictures later today and cleaning up leftover pics.
 

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24,223 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
just an update



i was getting to much slack on the barnett cables due to them using the factory measurement for the cx 500 throttle



but when you remove the push cable it left to much play in the throttle even tightened right up for my liking



any of you that got that cable if the slack bothers you let me know and i can tell you how to cure it



in the mean time i have had the cable redesigned and am having some made right now i will resume shipping tomorrow
 
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