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24,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys help me out here i am building this post to help all of you install tune and maintain these carbs

it will take me several days to post this and get it organized


let me get this done

there is a carb swap thread underway for comments and questions please use that

first i will add all the photos in correct order then all the copy instructions for the installation

if this is kept clean it can then be transferred to wiki

Thanks for all your help and support


I feel i must state the following to protect my self so please understand

a member eligible to get the Current member price on the carb kit (to close to cost )

Must have been a member from the start of the thread "Carb Swap" so August 1 2012

Any members joining after that will receive a 10 percent forum discount from regular price

i have already had contact from people who think if they join now they will do it just to get

the membership price and frankly i will never pay off my production jigs and development costs at that price

let alone make any money

i hope this is clear and the past/future membership understands

Note i have now put out quite a few of these kits and come to the following place:

People are having some issues assembling the carbs to the cable, and, tuning and balancing the carbs

when they are right out of the box!!!

So, instead of spending my time on the phone talking people thru this I have taken the steps

of actually assembling, mounting and running, and, tuning and balancing each and every set of carbs. Then I'm

draining and shipping them. This may add 20 dollars to each kit for my time, but it also makes the kits 20-25

minutes to install and you are off and riding!

So, the instructions have changed.

Remove Tank

Remove center motor mount hanger

Remove carbs and intake boots

Remove throttle cables and choke cable

Make sure heads are cleaned where intakes go on

Make sure port is clean afterwards


Place carbs on engine so they don't fall

Feed cable down left side of bike and thru left fork tube

Attach cable to throttle


Clean inside of intake manifolds in case something got in them

Remove the spigot flange that is loosly on the intake

Apply a bit of silicone sealant to the flange mating surface

Install and tighten the 2 allen bolts

Place provided o-ring on the intake using a bit of silicone sealant

Install the intake manifolds (Long one on the left. Short one on the right.)

Tighten them down


Arrange spigot flange hose clamps so they are on the outside

of each intake and the screw is pointing down

Loosen the hose clamp so carbs can slip in


Install fuel lines provided (The long one goes to right carb.

The next longest goes to left carb. The shortest to fuel tank)


For now while I can get them: the right carb idle scew faces out to the right side.

The left side idle screw faces out to the left side


Attach fuel line to right side carb and push it on till you can't see

any of the brass

Slide the right side carb into the spigot flange and make sure it

is popped into the locking groove. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT. Make sure

the carb is all the way in the rubber just like the stock carbs


Attach the fuel line to the left carb making sure the line is pushed down

all the way and the brass is fully covered. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CARB YET.


Point both chrome cable elbows towards the middle of the bike

and reinstall center motor mount and tighten


Check that the cable is routed correctly and in one of the clips at the front or

zip tie near the front of the carrier so it won't get pinched


Place fuel tank on bike

Now look underneath and make sure chrome cable elbows are not hitting the

tank. If they are, move them as needed or you can also rotate the carb tops

in slightly to move the elbows in. Once all is good, tighten carb clamps

making sure the carbs are in the spigots all the way

Look at remaing fuel line that goes to tank and decide where you are putting

your fuel filter


If you have to remove the tank, cut remaining fuel line and install filter

where you want it

Some of you have a smaller petcock tube and the supplied fuel line is too big

Take a piece of your old fuel line, place it on the petcock and cut it off

1/8 of an inch past the end of the metal tube. This will act as an adapter for the

larger fuel line supplied. Install fuel line on petcock making sure it is

pushed on all the way and tight. You may want to clamp it or place a zip tie on it.

Install tank bolt and seat.


Adjust slack adjuster at throttle to remove as much play in the throttle as

you can. Tighten lock nuts on cable.


Make sure both throttle slides open and close properly and are returning to

the idle position. When you let go of the throttle, you can actually feel them

hit the idle stop. Once you know they are opening and closing properly

and smoothly you can put your pods on and tighten.


Open petcock and inspect all connections and carbs for fuel leaks.

Take at least a minute to do this so the carbs are full while you are checking.

Look at both carbs and make sure the fuel lines are still pushed all the way

down on the brass fuel fittings. Correct as needed.




Push down on both choke levers and start bike.

It will be idling on fast idle. When you hear the idle start to drop

you can click off choke levers.

Open and close the throttle to help warm the engine till it idles

smoothly while you check again for any fuel air vacuum leaks.


Install crash helmet and other gear and go for a tear.

Your bike has changed drastically so feel it out.

DO NOT CRACK THE THROTTLE from a dead standstill!

Until you know how the bike responds, it might bite you!

After your test ride once the smile has stopped interfering with your ability to see,

check all connections and mounting hardware and clamps for leaks, looseness, ect.

Be safe and have a blast!!

I will be adding pictures later today and cleaning up leftover pics.

24,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
just an update

i was getting to much slack on the barnett cables due to them using the factory measurement for the cx 500 throttle

but when you remove the push cable it left to much play in the throttle even tightened right up for my liking

any of you that got that cable if the slack bothers you let me know and i can tell you how to cure it

in the mean time i have had the cable redesigned and am having some made right now i will resume shipping tomorrow

24,297 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Same here, can't find any pics. Also, what size fuel line for connecting the petcock to the brass T and to the carbs?
i supplied the fuel line with the brass t? what is the issue

Super Moderator
15,221 Posts
OK. I didn't notice the date (probably got turned up from the past via the useless Recommended Reading list at the bottom of the forum).
I'll wait until Neanderthal replies and you get him settled, then delete the whole thread.
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