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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I,ve been reading some of the other forums and noticed members mentioning quick links for replacing one of these. I am trying to do this with the motor still in. I have a spare rear cover that still had the seal in tryed removing it in the same manner as I would the actually seal I need to r/r. These do not come out very willingly. Any suggestions from the greats out there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
1980 custom. I was refering to some of the other post about the cooling system/ leaks and mechanical seal replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So if I understand this "shep" correctly he only replaced the spring loaded portion of the seal instead of removing and replacing the whole thing?
 

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That would be correct. The metal cup stays in place. The old seal usually falls out of it when the impeller is removed. The trickiest part of doing this is removing the new rubber and spring from the new cup. They need to be heated in order to release the glue. There have been more than a few that pulled too hard before the glue released, and ended up getting another seal. There should be posts that detail the process of removing the spring and rubber without tearing it.



Make sure all washers are in place and the copper washer annealed before assembly. Also lube the "polo" mint and the mating seal surface with liquid soap or equiv when installing.



If the posts are not clear, let us know and we can walk you through the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I can see the point to not removing the cup and just glueing in the replacement spring loaded seal. What about the rubber cup peace for the backside of the cup? Is this only replaceable when dropping and splitting the back half of the motor?
 

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Are you referring to the oil seal that fits between the water pump cup and the crankcase? That is not replaceable unless the rear cover is removed. They generally do not go bad unless someone has blocked the weep hole and coolant has migrated past the seal into the crankcase. I do change them as a matter of course if I have the rear cover off. It is just cheap insurance.
 

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Just to add to BF's post they tend to go if the bike has been left for years as they go brittle without use.In regular use they rarely go.

If the rear case has not been removed for years it's best to replace it as it will almost certainly fail on re-fit.It's a cheap an easy part to replace when the engine is out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was refering to the crankcase seal behind the water pump cup. I knew I should have done this when I was replacing the stator last year. Thanks guys, I will update after I try this.
 

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I was refering to the crankcase seal behind the water pump cup. I knew I should have done this when I was replacing the stator last year. Thanks guys, I will update after I try this.


As it's an engine out job and if it's not causing a problem now I would just do the Mech seal and see how you go
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay. Undated time. I replaced the seal according to the 'shep' link but it still leaks through the weep whole. I used high temp sealant to glue in the new seal. What maybe did I do wrong?
 

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How many miles have you ridden since the seal was replaced? I've noticed it can sometimes take a hundred miles or so before a new seal will stop dribbling a few drops.



Did you let the sealant have sufficient time to cure before cranking the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
48 hours. It's leaking just as fast as before I tore it down. So far I have ridden about ten miles.
 

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Give it some more miles as sustained high speeds.Did you make sure the 10 mm washer was on the Cam-shaft.Pictured red on here(Not a brilliant photo)







Missing and it will cause a leak.Placing two accidentally on there can ruin the Water pump assembly.
 
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