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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again,
Just when i thought i was ready to ride....i need to replace the mechanical seal. This will be 2/3 for the triple bypass!
I have coolant coming out the weep hole under the carbs at idle fairly consistently, so rather than put it off it's time to replace it. I will be using shep's method of swapping the seal from one cup to the other.

I need your assistance double checking i have everything i need and advice on parts purchased.
Will be using this Video as instruction an info from this forum

Replacement parts:
Mech Seal and polo mint - (yamaha 11H-12438-10-00 ) - off Amazon
RTV gasket maker to re-attach seal to cup
Is the pump cover oring necessary to replace if it doesnt leak?
Reusing copper crush washer and re-annealing it

Am i missing anything?

Question: For the mech seal itself - is this a thing i should be buying from Honda to ensure it lasts, or will the ebay/amazon Chinese version work just as well?

Thanks
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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The pump cover gasket is frequently reuseable, unless it's significantly flattened.
Flip the crush washer when you reinstall it, so it forms new impressions.
 
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The video makes on mention of the thrust washer. Make sure that it is in place properly when reassembling.
 

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No, that washer is the crush washer. The thrust washer sits on the camshaft over the splines. The impeller presses on the thrust washer when placed.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, that washer is the crush washer. The thrust washer sits on the camshaft over the splines. The impeller presses on the thrust washer when placed.

View attachment 210444
ah! Ok, ill pay close attention.
Now when you say "on properly", is there a specific orientation that it needs to be installed in or just to make sure that it is installed altogether and not forgotten....
 

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Make sure that it is installed; no specific orientation.
 
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often times the thrust washer is stuck in the back of the impellor. It can look like it is part of the impellor , but it is a seperate item and you need it or the impellor will drag on the back of the pump housing. Also dont buy an aftermarket acorn nut as they tend to be taller than the original and they drag on the front face of the pump housing .
 
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IF bought from yammy ...but the one i linked i dont think is an authentic yamaha, hence my question...
Get the authentic Yammie. If memory serves, it's roughly $30. Short money compared to the hassle of changing it.
 
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In the video mention is made to avoid fingerprints on the ceramic seal. Would the same apply to the face of the bellows? Clean both faces with isopropyl alcohol before use?
 

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Even for us that have done these before....its always bookmarking recent threads/comments....as time goes by we go by recollection...or "what we did/thought we did......."
 

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depends on how recently or how often you've done it I guess.

Some are working from dim memory, others have just read the accounts of others.

It's a simple process but does have a few inherent traps.
 

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Yeah true....thats what i was getting at. ..if you only have the one Cx donk.....and you dont work on others.....replacement was done either by knowledge passed on at the time or engineering basic principles but knowledge is added all the time.....thats my take on it.......the coolant pipe cx650 seal is one example where a guru here in a thread (Dave Winsc.) suggested orientating in the opposite direction to common advice .....seems to be holding well on mine
 
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