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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.



My mech seal looks to be in very good condition, although it surely is the original one. Should I change it or not? What causes these seals to fail, and how does a faulty one look like?



Regards,

Michael
 

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Hi all.



My mech seal looks to be in very good condition, although it surely is the original one. Should I change it or not? What causes these seals to fail, and how does a faulty one look like?



Regards,

Michael
im assuming the engine is out.

then i would replace as a matter of course.sometimes these type of parts do not like disturbing.

but hell,if you dont its not the end of the world

http://www.sheppola.karoo.net/TwistedTwin/MechanicalSealInBike.htm



Doward a member has the seals and they are cheap.
 

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Yep if the engine is out then it's not going to hurt to pick up a $20 USD yamaha seal and slap it in. The real question is how is the oil seal on the other side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yep if the engine is out then it's not going to hurt to pick up a $20 USD yamaha seal and slap it in. The real question is how is the oil seal on the other side.


The seal behind was OK, but I will be changing that as a matter of fact since failure of that one could potentially have disastrous consequences. About the mech. seal; I'm concerned about that the new seal cups seem to be larger in diameter, and that the seal cup or the hole it is inserted into must be modified to make it fit. Perhaps I will use Shep's method, and re-use the old cup.



Michael
 

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If you don't want to do the Shep method then this is the other way around.



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=516&p=2585#p2585



If you do it this way the flapper wheel will be a bit tricky to get in the hole but it will work and really needs an electric drill to spin it since some cordless drills may not light trying to turn it.



But if you want to do the Shep method there is no problem there. Just remember to clean everything up good and make sure the weep hole is clear.
 

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The seal behind was OK, but I will be changing that as a matter of fact since failure of that one could potentially have disastrous consequences. About the mech. seal; I'm concerned about that the new seal cups seem to be larger in diameter, and that the seal cup or the hole it is inserted into must be modified to make it fit. Perhaps I will use Shep's method, and re-use the old cup.



Michael
michael,why make an easy job difficult.

use sheps method.its not difficult and its risk free
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I will try Shep's method, and re-use the old cup. The only thing I'm concerned about is if the new seal could be damaged by this procedure. Warming up and that I mean. I see that some posters have had difficulties with this.



Michael
 

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Thanks for the input guys. I will try Shep's method, and re-use the old cup. The only thing I'm concerned about is if the new seal could be damaged by this procedure. Warming up and that I mean. I see that some posters have had difficulties with this.



Michael
michael,the yammy seal is known for have a stronger adhesive than the honda seal,so you need to heat until it sizzles.you wont damage the part as long as you remember......do NOT use force....if it doent come out easy,,you have not heated it enough.you will be fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I see that there are two Yamaha seal available on eBay, 11H-12438-00 and 11H-12438-10. Both are listed for the same models. It seems the -00 seal is of the older type, and that the seal cup is slightly smaller? Will that one fit without modification?



Michael
 

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I see that there are two Yamaha seal available on eBay, 11H-12438-00 and 11H-12438-10. Both are listed for the same models. It seems the -00 seal is of the older type, and that the seal cup is slightly smaller? Will that one fit without modification?



Michael
from sheps site

Yamaha Seal(Part No:11H-12438-10-00)



id go with this,since its proven to be correct for all 500 models,irrespective of the dimensions

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355
 

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from sheps site

Yamaha Seal(Part No:11H-12438-10-00)



id go with this,since its proven to be correct for all 500 models,irrespective of the dimensions

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355




Hi Michael,



I´ve done quite a few water pump seals, on my own and others bikes. All of them went smoothly the old way, but then I´ve never worked on an early model (with the slightly smaller dia seal steel cup opening. I´ve always had the new seal pressed in by my local, very friendly Honda shop. I came with the engine rear cover in one hand. A Yamaha (later a Davey pump seal) in the other.



The last one ( 1 1/2 years ago) I did the "Shep way". Worked perfectly. I heated the new seal carefully and slowly and the rubber separated nicely from the steel cup.



If you wish (to save money) I can send you a Davey seal. I bought a handful a couple of years ago and still have some left - probably more than I´ll ever need. They are cheaper than the Yamaha and Honda variants. All dimensions identical. I have two or three in my bikes, already.



Sture
 

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Michael, I've owned four of these bikes over the years and two of them have had mechanical seal failures. On the first bike, the rubber seemed to be deteriorated and the result was coolant mixed into the crankcase. The rubber on the old seal seemed not as strong as on the new seal. I'd chalk it up to age.



On my '81 GL500, the mechanical seal completely disintegrated but the bike had sat unused for eleven years before I bought it. The failed mechanical seal had all the rubber torn up and the inner spring hanging out. This seems to be a common failure mode -- long periods of disuse are hard on the mechanical seal.
 

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Michael, I've owned four of these bikes over the years and two of them have had mechanical seal failures. On the first bike, the rubber seemed to be deteriorated and the result was coolant mixed into the crankcase. The rubber on the old seal seemed not as strong as on the new seal. I'd chalk it up to age.



On my '81 GL500, the mechanical seal completely disintegrated but the bike had sat unused for eleven years before I bought it. The failed mechanical seal had all the rubber torn up and the inner spring hanging out. This seems to be a common failure mode -- long periods of disuse are hard on the mechanical seal.
 

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If you don't want to do the Shep method then this is the other way around.



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=516&p=2585#p2585



If you do it this way the flapper wheel will be a bit tricky to get in the hole but it will work and really needs an electric drill to spin it since some cordless drills may not light trying to turn it.



But if you want to do the Shep method there is no problem there. Just remember to clean everything up good and make sure the weep hole is clear.
I used a dremmil with a drum sander to work the openning to place the new seal housing into place. This way i do not worry about the gasket comming looose. I can then use the new seal complete. No silicone involed.
 
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