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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that I'm trying to move on from my flywheel problem, the mechanical seal is my next item on the list. What is the best way to install without using a special tool and without out damaging?? I'm having trouble with shep's method in that I can't seem to get enough heat to break the boot free. Any other suggestions would be helpful.



deuce
 

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Now that I'm trying to move on from my flywheel problem, the mechanical seal is my next item on the list. What is the best way to install without using a special tool and without out damaging?? I'm having trouble with shep's method in that I can't seem to get enough heat to break the boot free. Any other suggestions would be helpful.



deuce
For sheps method, I used my bbq grill. Pry with two small screwdrivers while heating. I managed to do two seals without screwing anything up (the first seal got dropped and broke the carbon face subsequently)
 

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BBQ grill would work, I used the stove top.  If you heat it enough it'll pull out with no or very little resistance.  If you are putting any strain on it at all you need to heat it more, I learned from experience but luckily had ordered 2.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, so what about the actual install of the seal itself?? I do not have the special tool. Any suggestions??



deuce
 

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It sounds like you may have the rear engine cover removed since you mentioned a flywheel problem. If so, the mechanical seal can be readily pressed in as opposed to using Shep's method. This would be my preference.



If the rear engine cover is not removed then Shep's method would be the way to go.



Shep's method does not require any special tools.



Honda made a special tool for pressing in mechanical seals:





This tool is not necessary, as the same function can be realized using a piece of threaded rod and some sockets and/or PVC fittings:





Also see this and this.



One of the benefits of attending the Amish rally is the tech sessions. This year one of the things demonstrated was pressing in a mechanical seal using a piece of threaded rod and some sockets.
 

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deuce,



Don't know if you thought about it or not, but since your rear cover's off, you should also replace the oil seal behind the water pump.  If you do the full mech seal replacement like Dave suggests, you'd need to take the oil seal out anyway, but if you do just the rubber replacement, you might not think about the oil seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks,



I now realize that Shep's method is intended on keeping the metal cup in. Mine is all ready out. Thanks Dave F for the info, and philbrewer for the oil seal suggestion. I do plan on replacing the oil seal.



deuce
 

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The only thing that freaks me out about pressing in a new seal is the two different sized orifices. Not all Honda seals are the same with cup diameter, whereas the guts work in any of them. I'd hate for the OP to remove the old seal then have the new one too big for the hole. Yes the hole can be enlarged with a flapper wheel, but it's something I'd fear to try.
 

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I don't think it's a big deal. Enlarging the bore with a flapper wheel takes some time - if the fit is checked frequently there is little likelihood of removing too much material.



Fortunately, the one size seal still available for the 500's is the larger size. It can be made to fit in either rear engine case. Things would be more challenging if only the smaller sizer was available.
 

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I have heard of rider's using a Yamaha seal that can be fitted witha small mod. (like removing the rubber/metal case or something)



Anyone know about this?? The seal is really cheap compared to Mr.Honda.
 

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I have heard of rider's using a Yamaha seal that can be fitted witha small mod. (like removing the rubber/metal case or something)



Anyone know about this?? The seal is really cheap compared to Mr.Honda.
bear,thats pretty much sheps method,spoke about above.you use heat to seperate the yammy seal from the metal cup and fit into the old metal cup that sitting in the case.it removes the need to enlarge the case on older models.

note.

the adhesive used on the yammy seal is a fair bit stronger than the honda seal,therefore requires a bit more heat to seperate.

other than that,the seals are the same,other than the price
 

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Deuce,



Did you get your seal pressed in?



I've got the correct flap wheel and press, if you still need them.



R
 

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You don't need any sealer on the outside of the cup if you are pressing it in.It's what's known as an,"Interference" fit.It is officially supposed to be frozen and or the case heated so that when the two metal surfaces come to normal temperatures they are bonded by pressure hermetically.



One of the ways was to strip the rear case and leave it in the oven to heat up and leave the seal in a freezer .
 
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