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yes but its probally not the best way to go.



Are we talking front or rear?





On the front you can raise the fork tubes in the triple trees effectively lowering the front end. And on the rear you can set the preload to the lowest setting so you get more sag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the rear i want bout 2 to 3 inch drop and u got a link or instructions on how to do the front?I dont know alot bout bikes i use to be a car guy but my brother got me hooked on bikes thnx for any help
 

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to drop the front you need to take the plastic honda tag off the front and loosen the 14mm bolts there. then loose the bolts at the top of the fork. i used a flat blade screw driver to pry the forks apart. then i took a 6 inch 2x4 and a hammer and beat the bridge. i lowered mine 1 inch.
 

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I just loosened the 14mm bolts at the bottom of the tree and the 10mm nut and bolt at the top then took my rubber mallet and tapped on the side of the tree til it slid down to where i wanted it. the first time i did it it took me like a half an hour because i was so nervous about it. i just raised the forks then lowered them again in the time it took to smoke a cigarette (7 min) I'm sure someone is going to say this but be warned about lowering it too much. it does have an effect on your steering and other handleing elements. i didn't want to lower mine but i didn't have much choice since the motor was sitting at a high angle after dropping the rear with a hardbar. good luck
 

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you might want to consider switching to Harley Davidson air shocks as i have done. you could lower the pressure and drop the rear, plus be able to change the settings in the future. Got my set on e-bay, 80$ with air lines and shraider valve. you'll only need to switch out the rubber bushings.
 

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you might want to consider switching to Harley Davidson air shocks as i have done. you could lower the pressure and drop the rear, plus be able to change the settings in the future. Got my set on e-bay, 80$ with air lines and shraider valve. you'll only need to switch out the rubber bushings.


Are you using the big black Electa-Glide shocks? I've seen those on ebay and wondered if they'd fit -- they look really thick.

what's the eye-to-eye measurement? Do you have pics of your set-up?



Thanks in advance.
 

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Cuttiing your rear springs are not the way to go.



Use a different seat



purchase a smaller set of shocks



possibly get a smaller tire (Not sure if available)



Combine these things and it will drop
 

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Are you using the big black Electa-Glide shocks? I've seen those on ebay and wondered if they'd fit -- they look really thick.

what's the eye-to-eye measurement? Do you have pics of your set-up?



Thanks in advance.
The shocks I have were advertized on E-bay as 2006 Electraglide take offs with only a few thousand miles. I hope so anyway as i would have no way to tell the difference. maybe a Harley guy could tell the difference. they were sold by a Harley dealer who had replaced them w/ a lowering kit which i assume is popular. They are 13 long, the same as our CX's. they fit like they belong there. The mounting studs are a different diameter so you will have to press out the rubber bushings on the air shocks w/ a socket and bench vise and simply replace them w/ the bushings from the CX's shocks. I mounted the shraider valve assembly behind the rt cover near the flasher can. I believe these are intended to be run at 10-25 psi. I find w/ loaded saddle bags and me solo @ 250lbs, 11-12 lbs gives a good ride. with my 130 lb son on the back I run them at 16 lbs. these shocks made a dramatic difference for my bike. My original shocks had 55k when i replaced them and it was like riding a pogo stick... sorry i don't have any pics. good luck
 

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The shocks I have were advertized on E-bay as 2006 Electraglide take offs with only a few thousand miles. I hope so anyway as i would have no way to tell the difference. maybe a Harley guy could tell the difference. they were sold by a Harley dealer who had replaced them w/ a lowering kit which i assume is popular. They are 13 long, the same as our CX's. they fit like they belong there. The mounting studs are a different diameter so you will have to press out the rubber bushings on the air shocks w/ a socket and bench vise and simply replace them w/ the bushings from the CX's shocks. I mounted the shraider valve assembly behind the rt cover near the flasher can. I believe these are intended to be run at 10-25 psi. I find w/ loaded saddle bags and me solo @ 250lbs, 11-12 lbs gives a good ride. with my 130 lb son on the back I run them at 16 lbs. these shocks made a dramatic difference for my bike. My original shocks had 55k when i replaced them and it was like riding a pogo stick... sorry i don't have any pics. good luck


Great info Jeff... thanks!
 

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I'm interested in shorter shocks for the rear of my Custom. I lowered the front two inches, so now I'd like to lower the rear about 2 to 2.5 inches.



I have seen the use of Honda Rebel shocks on Sportsters. I hear the ride is horrible.



The bike in my avatar is the model I'm using. The rear shocks on that bike look to be 11 or 10 inch.



However, I just might cut my rear springs down. My rear shocks are twenty nine years old. If it don't work out, I can spend my money on new proper shocks instead of buying new shorter chocks I might not like anyway.



Hmmmmm..... sounds like a plan.
 
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