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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was cruising along using Larry's Guide to clean my carbs. Everything was going great until I tried to remove the low jet emulsifier with an O'Reilly Auto screw extractor. Of course it broke. Help! Any suggestions about what to do next?

As a side question, what is a good quality extractor set?
 

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What carbs are you working on? Year & model. Give me the # on the carb body too. Is it the left or right?

I'll see if I have one for you. I don't know if it will come out, but if you want to send me the body I may be able to get it out if I can make a long drill bit tiny enough to drill holes next to the broken piece. It relieves the pressure on it and allows for the section to be backed out. Let me give it a try for you. Do you have my address still from getting the book?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What carbs are you working on? Year & model. Give me the # on the carb body too. Is it the left or right?

I'll see if I have one for you. I don't know if it will come out, but if you want to send me the body I may be able to get it out if I can make a long drill bit tiny enough to drill holes next to the broken piece. It relieves the pressure on it and allows for the section to be backed out. Let me give it a try for you. Do you have my address still from getting the book?


It's a '78 CX500. Carb is the right one.

On body #: VB--then under that 26AAPK (Kanji character).

Your idea of drilling around it is great. I can try that. I think my problem was that I used too small of an EZout. The upside to that is there's more room around the broken shaft. Please check to see if you have a replacement. PM me with details.

Thanks

Craig
 

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my teeth chatter when i think of using a drill of any sort near my carbs....make that, my whole frigging body shakes....gah!
 

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Easy Ramprat it's not that bad. Have another shot and calm your nerves.



Here is an illustration I did to show what I mean. Drill around the edge of the broken extractor at each point where the spiraled tips bite into the brass jet. It will relieve the pressure that's holding the piece in there. Then you may be able to get in there with thin needle nose pliers or a hemostat to twist clockwise and pull it out. Angle the drill from the outer edge of the aluminum hole that the jet sits in, towards the center of the jet. That way it will stay close to the tapper and release the pressure better.

Be careful and go slow. You don't want another broken piece in there.







Just in case you can't get it out I think I have one of those bodies.
 

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Are you sure it's broken in the low jet? I have NEVER had or heard of anyone having one break inside that jet. The center one right?



http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k378/LRCXed/CARB STUFF/Carbcut.jpg?t=1282353822


I know of at least two people who have as I'm one of them.I used a combination of heat and penetrating fluid and then turned the carbs upside down and tapped them with a small hammer and the jet fell out.I would now never recommend anyone using an easi-out or any other metal device to get that jet out.



My 10 penn'th.
 

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I think I read somewhere that you should get your eazyout from either MAC tools or SnapON. They supposedly have the best and strongest easyouts. They are probably also the most expensive. I could be wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any updates on your progress with this?
The Ez-out was broken almost flush with the top of the jet. No way I can get a grip on it. I'm going to have to drill it out. I just got a carbide tipped drill tonight that they swear will go through tool steel so I'll try tomorrow. Right now I trying to come up with a way to keep the drill centered in the hole so it just gets the Ez-out and no jet.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
 

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1978 CX500 "The Grub", 1983 GL650I "Nimbus"
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You'll most likely ruin the brass, but that's OK if you can leave the aluminum untouched.



When you try again with the easyout, apply a generous amount of heat to the aluminum around the jet, plus the penetrating oil.



R
 

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CW,

The ezouts are usually not drilled out very easy. Before you start drilling wrap tape around the drill bit so that it's as thick as the hole that the low jet is in. That way the drill bit won't have a tendency to drift off and ruin the body. I would build up the tape high enough that it keeps the drill straight too. Check it often so your not making any mistakes.

What is the diameter of the bit?

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
CW,

The ezouts are usually not drilled out very easy. Before you start drilling wrap tape around the drill bit so that it's as thick as the hole that the low jet is in. That way the drill bit won't have a tendency to drift off and ruin the body. I would build up the tape high enough that it keeps the drill straight too. Check it often so your not making any mistakes.

What is the diameter of the bit?

Good luck!


It's an 1/8th inch bit. Same size as the Ez-out at it's widest point. Good idea with the tape. My first idea was to make a delrin sleeve.
 

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They make EZ-Out extractors to remove broken EZ-Outs. Kind of like four pins that go into the void areas. Wouldn't know where to buy them though.



On some tools it just pays to buy Snap-On and/or Craftsan but even Craftsman has cheapened up quite a bit in quality.



Mac and that other high-$ mechanic tools company are about the same in price, I just stick with Snap-On.
 

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I am going to watch this closely because I too have the same issue, but with the left body from the '82 engine. My extractor (Black & Decker set) broke right at the opening of the brass jet.
I will be attempting the drill out as well.



The carbs on the bike right now are the '78 version and seem to be working OK.
 
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