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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so a few weeks ago I put some handlebars on my CX500C that came off of a KZ1300 in a salvage yard, dunno if they were the stock bars for it or not though. I loved them so much compared to the bucko bars, and after getting used to them, moved them forward an inch or two for more lean. Once I hit a certain point I realized that I wanted to be leaning even more, especially on the interstate or on highways. I'd try to lean more but couldn't in most cases. I got used to the bars in pretty much every other situation, but just felt like I wanted more lean. Pics:









So I just got some GP touring bars (sorry, no pics just yet, but I assume that most who know about handlebars know about this model) and after making sure they cleared the tank by themselves, I installed them. I then quickly realized that while they clear the tank without anything on them, my controls won't. I had them in a perfect position which I completely adored...something I felt like I could go days on. But I had to move them forward of that about an inch just to get the ability to turn all the way to the steering stops, but even with them turned forward a bit the controls will hit the tank about 1/8th of an inch before they are supposed to hit the steering stops.



Now I know that I could just fill in that 1/8th of an inch so the controls don't hit the tank, but the bars are much farther forward than I want them now. In the "perfect" position, they stopped the bars about maybe an inch or inch and a half before they were supposed to stop, which greatly reduced my ability to maneuver at slow speeds.



I'm thinking that my options right now are to get some risers, or find another pair of bars. I think that risers might bring the bars up too high, and will probably cost too much anyhow. I'm not sure though, I've never bought risers, and never really looked into them...they may bring them up just enough to still be perfect. I can't think of any other bars that might work. I've been considering the Daytonas, but they are advertised as having an inch less pullback, though they have an inch of rise more. The rise would be perfect (I'm ok with having the bars an inch higher) but the lesser pullback is a deal breaker, unless I can turn the Daytona bars back to get the grips where they would be with the GP touring bars, albeit of course just a little bit higher as to clear the tank.



Does anyone have any ideas? I think that the Daytona bars might work, I just want to see if anyone else who has used the Daytonas or GP Touring can confirm or deny that.



TL;DR: Basically, I want the grips to be in the same position as they should be with the GP touring bars in their "natural" position, but just about maybe an inch higher so my controls can clear the tank. I don't want the grips to be any more forward or back, and I don't want them to be much more than an inch or maybe two higher.
 

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Get the Daytonas and don't worry about it.



I loved mine. But I upgraded my tank to one that makes yours look small so I had Larry build me a set of custom bars similar to the daytonas with more rise. But not a stupid feel like the buckhorn bars.



If you don't like the pullback and can find someone with a welder take a good saw and cut the bars on the rise. Then put your hands where you want them to be and weld them back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Get the Daytonas and don't worry about it.



I loved mine. But I upgraded my tank to one that makes yours look small so I had Larry build me a set of custom bars similar to the daytonas with more rise. But not a stupid feel like the buckhorn bars.



If you don't like the pullback and can find someone with a welder take a good saw and cut the bars on the rise. Then put your hands where you want them to be and weld them back together.




I'm thinking about changing to a Deluxe tank in the future whenever I can find one for an affordable price. You don't need an upgraded tank to make mine look small, that thing is damned tiny, but I think that the dimensions of the tank near the handlebars are different than the Deluxe tank. Not too sure. Hopefully whatever bars I move on to after this pair will clear the tank when I eventually do change it.



The welding thing would probably cost more than a nice set of risers. I really enjoy where these GP Touring bars sit naturally, but I guess that I'll get some Daytonas and see what happens. I've been thinking that with that small amount of change, I'll probably be able to tilt them back enough to get a great feel, but it's so hard to tell when I've never really seen them in person. If I'm lucky maybe someone on here will magically come up with the perfect bars for me...haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've always wondered how you did that tank, but I'm bad with just looking at pictures. Do you have a writeup anywhere, or is my only resource the photo album? I've done two big trips on my CX already, and it's annoying to have to stop every 80-120 miles depending on how much I feel like running on reserve.
 

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In my signature line it says supertanker build. Click that. It's cheaper to add a standard or deluxe tank and get 1.5 more gallons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In my signature line it says supertanker build. Click that. It's cheaper to add a standard or deluxe tank and get 1.5 more gallons.




Well I was saying, that's just a photo album, unless for some reason my browser is blocking any text with those pics. I was asking if you had a written guide or report or whatever. I guess I'll play the "Picture speaks a thousand words" game
. But yeah I'd probably just go with a Deluxe or Standard tank once I run into one.



I've been riding all day with my GP Touring bars, and the position has already grown on me, but I still want to bring them back a bit, as I actually am going to use them for touring. I went to my mechanic and it looked like the Euro bars that I didn't buy in the past because I thought that they were too low were pretty much the same height (even though specs say they're two inches shorter) though wider and a different angle. I would be able to deal with them, but it looks like they'll have the exact same issue with tank clearance, unless someone else has tried them and would like to chime in.



Can anyone compare the Euro bars vs the Daytona bars, or even vs the GP Touring if they've used them? If the Daytonas aren't a *much* higher riding position then I'll most definitely buy them. I have it in my head that I'm going to order the Daytonas soon anyhow, but I'm still holding myself back until I get a bit more feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've been looking at a lot of pictures, seems like the Daytona is almost exactly what I asked for...same position as the GP Touring just a little bit higher. I wish that I could keep the position low, but my lock to lock steering and the integrity of my paint job is important too. So I just ordered them, hopefully they turn out to be perfect.



Do you mean 2 inches taller and 4 inches wider if I get a Deluxe tank, or with that Supertanker build? I wasn't really wanting info on it because I wanted to do it myself, I was just curious as to how it was done lol. I'm hoping that having a Deluxe tank won't change my clearance issues...I heard that there's a need to put some rubber in the mounts to move the tank an inch or two back from the bars or something like that, and then grind down the lip that mounts under the seat. I figure after doing all of that I should be fine.
 

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Wow Stitch, that's 40# of gasoline, that's a lot of weight up high. Do you fill it for just around town?

Cheers, 50gary
 

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2 inches taller and 4 inches wider for my tank. Not the deluxe.



And yes I do fill it up for around town. It's only twice the weight as stock.
 

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Cramer, I too purchased the Daytona handlebars and had a local shop replace the Buckhorns. The shop is a Motto Guzzi dealer and had the V7 Classic on the showroom floor so I compared the bars side-by-side and they were virtually identical. Two things I hadn't considered 1.) I had to decide if I wanted them to replace the cables with shorter ones or have them cut them down. I choose the latter but regular solder will not hold. You have to use silver solder --I think that's what it's called. 2.) The reservoir for the brake fluid sits at a weird angle. Not sure how that will work out. Good luck! Please post pictures after you make the switch. -A
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cramer, I too purchased the Daytona handlebars and had a local shop replace the Buckhorns. The shop is a Motto Guzzi dealer and had the V7 Classic on the showroom floor so I compared the bars side-by-side and they were virtually identical. Two things I hadn't considered 1.) I had to decide if I wanted them to replace the cables with shorter ones or have them cut them down. I choose the latter but regular solder will not hold. You have to use silver solder --I think that's what it's called. 2.) The reservoir for the brake fluid sits at a weird angle. Not sure how that will work out. Good luck! Please post pictures after you make the switch. -A




Yeah I've been having reservoir problems ever since I installed the bars off of the KZ1300. In fact it leaks so bad just from being angled like that that my braking power has been greatly reduced, and I have to add fluid every so often. I finally just caved and bought a Chinese master cylinder with a slightly smaller master cylinder diameter to increase my brake ratio a bit, but it won't be here for a while. Good news is that if anyone is wanting a freshly rebuilt CX500C master cylinder, it'll be up for sale soon lol. The GP Touring bars actually don't tilt it over that much, but I still wanted to decrease the diameter a bit anyhow.



As far as the cables go, I have them all routed to where they work just fine right now (I actually never rerouted them at all) but the clutch cable is definitely creating some issues, and will need to be replaced or shortened sooner or later. Everything else seems fine, and since the Daytonas are higher, it shouldn't be too much of an issue.



I'll post pics of the GP Touring whenever I get off of my lazy butt and go to the living room to get my camera lol (read: not gonna be any time soon). I'll post pics of the Daytonas once they arrive and I get 'em installed, and I'll probably post the GP Touring ones as well since I'll have my camera out.
 

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The answer to the cables is to only shorten them if you really want to.



Otherwise I suggest you leave them long. The way to route them is straight forward and then back in under the headlight.



This was my bike 3 years ago with daytonas and stock cables.







And this is the current state with the custom taller daytona bars. If I changed the cables I would have had to get new ones for new handlebars. Wasn't worth it although I have 3 sets of cables hanging by my toolbox.



The only difference in position is with the daytonas it went under the headlight bucket below the ears and the newer goes above the headlight bucket and over the ear.



Experimenting saves a lot of money.



 

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Your bike looks great, Stitch! How does it ride with a full tank of fuel?

Easy to maneuver at low speed? It's a lot of extra weight up top.

I'm just curious and jealous.


-D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Currently my cables route behind my windshield, as people looking from the front won't see them behind the tint. That may need to change a bit in the future but so far it seems fine other than that pesky clutch cable. I adjusted the play a bit and I think that I may have fixed it. I've always had some occasional clutch slippage especially in lower gears under heavy acceleration, and second likes to drop to neutral, but I think that that may be more clutch related than cable related. I'll just have to pay more attention.



It seems like when it happens is when I'm letting the handle out to reengage the clutch, but I have maybe 20% left to go until the clutch is fully reengaged...and it seems to fix itself when I let the clutch out fully, or sometimes I guess I just didn't shift hard enough, so I pull the clutch back in and shift again, and then go. Regardless I'll try to route it around the headlight like that and see if it continues to happen. I'm not experienced at all with the clutch and its related problems, I had to google an article just to see if I should tighten or loosen it with slippage, and honestly, I still don't know for sure (it seems a bit loose now).
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Daytonas installed. Spent about two hours just fiddling with my clutch adjustment and cable until I realized that the wheel is supposed to spin in first gear with the clutch pulled in if it's on the centerstand. Doh!



They're higher than I'd like them to be, as expected, but I haven't taken the bike for a spin yet as I'm beat from tinkering with it all day long, so they might turn out to be perfect. I'll post pics a little bit later tonight, I'm going to try and get a decent ride in before it gets dark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Incoming metric assload of pics! The forum won't let me hotlink to all of them so some you will have to click.



Ok, my first pics in the thread are the bars I put on after the bucko bars that came off of a KZ1300.



This is comparison between them an GP Touring:







Here is GP Touring installed with and without my windshield:













I really actually felt great with the GP Touring bars. I would have kept them on if they weren't hitting the tank the way they were. I don't know how but they felt very natural to me, and I had no weight on my wrists using them. The Daytona bars now (only about 20 miles on them and I should probably still adjust them a bit) feel weird. My fingers on my throttle hand went to sleep, my upper back hurts, and my wrist hurts. My uncle says that the bars are further back than what they're supposed to be, but moving them any farther forward seems contradictory. I'm already leaning less than I'd like to, that may lessen the lean more...but I don't know. I'll have to try tomorrow.



Here are pics going from GP Touring to Daytona. The GP Touring is the set that still has a grip on it:











http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205752_1497986468561_1801113404_922937_3507766_n.jpg

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/215478_1497986628565_1801113404_922938_1035605_n.jpg

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/206661_1497986748568_1801113404_922939_5263943_n.jpg



They also did still touch the tank, but didn't hit the tank like the GP Touring did. Maybe moving them forward will completely eliminate that but I don't know how that will affect my comfort or riding position or whatever. I guess that I'll see when I tinker a bit more tomorrow. My windshield is also a little bit lower than I'm used to, and I broke my front brake light switch...oops. The part where the wires go in decided to just fly completely off when I was putting the master cylinder back on the bars. I put it back together but now it won't work anymore. More tinkering for tomorrow, hopefully I can fix it.
 
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