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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks - thanks in advance for the help. I've been rebuilding a 78 cx500 and its good to go now, or I thought so....



Finally got it running about 2 weeks ago. Rode it around a bit and then started painting. Rode to work the past 2 days and when I got home wanted to take the wifey for a ride. Jumped on and it tried to turn 1-2 times and then I just head a clicking sound from down near the battery (and the rest of the electrical gizmos there). I pulled the battery and noticed the fluid levels were low in 1-2 cells (got new battery 2 months ago when I got the bike) so i filled it then charged it for about 1 hour and put it back on the bike. It started right up and we drove around for about 20 minutes. Towards the end of the ride the turn signals stopped blinking (just replaced the blinker relay to) and the headlight got really dim. Turned the bike off and tried to start again just to check things out and it had nothing.



Any ideas? If this is the stator how would I figure that out? Would the ignitech group buy going on fix an issue?



Thanks everyone!
 

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I would take a multimeter and check the voltage that the bike is putting out. The cx you have runs off a cdi ignition system so if the charging circuit on the bike dies the high and low circuits on the stator will keep you running. Although you will have to push start it when the bikes dead.



But check the voltage first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would take a multimeter and check the voltage that the bike is putting out. The cx you have runs off a cdi ignition system so if the charging circuit on the bike dies the high and low circuits on the stator will keep you running. Although you will have to push start it when the bikes dead.



But check the voltage first.




er....I have a multimeter but how would I test the voltage the bike it putting out (12V right?)- should I test at the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What was the charging rate of the charger?


Shep - it's a 1 amp charger I believe. A trickle charger just for motorcycles and ATVs. This whole thing is strange because it ran pretty well for weeks after my initial charge (not consistently, but several times) and is just doing this now. At any rate, I'll test the battery and output and get back to you guys.
 

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Cool.I was concerned that the battery may have been over charged.Of course it could still be faulty but before you do anything else change the main fuse holder even if it looks good.



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27



I had the exact same symptoms on my present,"Bitsa" CX500 after putting it together and it was the old Main fuse and holder causing the problem hence my original post above.The battery lost charge and would not start after being stopped.Luckily being a CDI version I could,"Bump Start" it
 

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Our bikes will start and operate for a limited time with a properly charged battery. If it's not getting recharged as you ride, the symptoms you've described develop as a cause of the battery getting weaker the longer you ride. Depending on the health of your battery, you may get more time. But it's limited.



You should be reading anywhere from 12.5 - 13.25 volts (approx) across the terminals of the battery with the bike turned off.



Measuring across the terminals, activate the kill switch, and push the start button. Voltage should drop to 9.5 - 10 volts (approx).



Put the kill switch to RUN, then start the bike. Again reading across the terminals, you should read 13.5 - 14.2 volts (approx)....but not more than 14.8 volts.



If you don't get these readings, your stator is probably not charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cool.I was concerned that the battery may have been over charged.Of course it could still be faulty but before you do anything else change the main fuse holder even if it looks good.



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=27



I had the exact same symptoms on my present,"Bitsa" CX500 after putting it together and it was the old Main fuse and holder causing the problem hence my original post above.




Oye vey. Electrical gremlins are a pain. Most of my tools and my mutltimeter are over at a friend's house because I was helping put a new roof on their house last weekend so I'll have to grab them after work and take a look-see. I don't know if it is connected but I have blown two of the main fuses since getting this bike running. I would ride around, turn it off and open the gate to our yard (I have been building this on the back porch) and when I go to start it, it blows the fuse. Think it's connected?
 

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Oye vey. Electrical gremlins are a pain. Most of my tools and my mutltimeter are over at a friend's house because I was helping put a new roof on their house last weekend so I'll have to grab them after work and take a look-see. I don't know if it is connected but I have blown two of the main fuses since getting this bike running. I would ride around, turn it off and open the gate to our yard (I have been building this on the back porch) and when I go to start it, it blows the fuse. Think it's connected?


It could well be related and replacing the main fuse and holder is cheap and will eliminate it from the troubleshooting
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It could well be related and replacing the main fuse and holder is cheap and will eliminate it from the troubleshooting




Hmm - would I test the circuit around the fuse or do you think its worth just replacing? How far back would you cut the wires? Main fuse is brand new at this point - only 1 week old.
 

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Have you checked the stator ? 12.5V when the bike is running at 2000 RPM sounds way too low. Normally, you will only see a charge voltage that low if either the battery is bad and wont hold a proper charge (still pulling a heavey charge current) or the charge circuit isnt functioning properly (bad stator winding or bad regulator).
 

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battery after being charged all night reads 13.42V - bike running at ~2000 RPM reads 12.5 with small variance.



A battery wont be that high unless its just come off charge

which sounds as if thats when the voltage was read.

Assuming the running voltage was read not long after

my moneys on the stator, RR or connections.



Whether the main fuse is good or bad is immaterial

at this point

you want to see 14V across the battery when the motor

is running.



the charge rate of the charger is a bit of a red herring

as well.

the stator puts out a lot more than any charger

and that what the battery spend most of its time

connected to.

Do a stator test, RR diode test and check the cables

Dont Guess, TEST
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hmm. So resistance tests seemed to be good. When I did the voltage test of the 3 yellow wires on the stator (incidentally for the 78 CX500 these are under the seat, not in on the side like the GL photo) the measurements were 8, 7.3, and 3.8 - that seems REALLY low for what was indicated. I'm going to go ahead and assume the stator is bad - does this sound correct? Randomly, the bike came from the PO (rolling chassis with boxes of parts) with another stator. Assuming my stator is bad (please confirm or deny) is there a way to check that one before I pull the engine, remove the rear cover (oye vey) and replace the stator? The wiring on the other one is a bit different as well. If I pose pics would anyone be able to tell me if it is the G8 or the g47? If it is the G8 - would i need the ignitech to make it work. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure this out.



THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Do a resistance test on the Stator,



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=30



If all things check out change that fuse holder




I did do a resistance test on those 3 yellow wires - results were no resistance. From what I read in the Clymber manual and here, those low voltage results from the stator pin tests (same 3 yellow wires) should be alarming right? What would that have to do with the fuse/fuse holder? I'll change it anyway because its cheap and ideally would fix the issue, but it seems like the stator should be putting out way higher voltage measurements. I'm new to this though......
 

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I did do a resistance test on those 3 yellow wires - results were no resistance. From what I read in the Clymber manual and here, those low voltage results from the stator pin tests (same 3 yellow wires) should be alarming right? What would that have to do with the fuse/fuse holder? I'll change it anyway because its cheap and ideally would fix the issue, but it seems like the stator should be putting out way higher voltage measurements. I'm new to this though......


Did you also test the Stator to ground.There should be no continuity e.g very high/infinite resistance between any of the yellows to ground.



The reason I keep mentioning the main fuse holder is that if all your tests work out fine then a faulty main fuse and holder can bleed current of the charging system when the bike is running.

As per my previous post this is what used to happen to my bike.All the charging system was fine but if I road for a couple of days the battery would flatten after a time and also the starter motor struggled to crank.The Main fuse and holder got really hot as well.



Also see this yellow wire Stator connector block(Different model but same principle e.g corroded,









ALL bad/corroded contacts can cause no end of problems.



Also click here,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Electrics.htm



Basically put aside an evening or a couple of hours some time to clean as many connectors as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Did you also test the Stator to ground.There should be no continuity e.g very high/infinite resistance between any of the yellows to ground.



The reason I keep mentioning the main fuse holder is that if all your tests work out fine then a faulty main fuse and holder can bleed current of the charging system when the bike is running.

As per my previous post this is what used to happen to my bike.All the charging system was fine but if I road for a couple of days the battery would flatten after a time and also the starter motor struggled to crank.The Main fuse and holder got really hot as well.



Also see this yellow wire Stator connector block(Different model but same principle e.g corroded,









ALL bad/corroded contacts can cause no end of problems.



Also click here,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Electrics.htm



Basically put aside an evening or a couple of hours some time to clean as many connectors as you can.




- I cleaned as many as I could when I was assembling the bike at first and don't appear to have much in the way of corrosion etc.



I did test the stator to ground and all of the other tests. This is why I feel concerned about the voltage test at the pins:



"Stator Voltage Checks



The actual voltages measured are not so important, and they will vary with engine rpm over a range from about 40 Volts to 70 Volts. However, it is important that the three measured voltages are approximately the same value. A gross mismatch is a strong indication of a shorted stator winding.



A typical set of measurements for a good stator might be 53, 52, and 54 Volts. For a bad stator, this could be 18, 24, and 12 Volts. In the latter case the voltage is both grossly unbalanced and low."



- My pin to pin voltage tests came back at less than 10V......and I don't understand where the fuse holder would come into this as I was testing the output from the stator itself?



Sorry if I'm being obtuse. Just trying to understand this completely.
 
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