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Discussion Starter #1
When I bought this 10 days ago, I was given a 'spare' radiator and shroud. The shroud does not fit the radiatore that came with but does fit the 'spare' radiator. Mechanically I can do the switch but how do I refill it with coolant? There certainly is not room to fiddle with the radiator cap (without removing the gas tank). So please step me through the process. Thanks

John Redman
Grafton, NH
 

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The spare rad and shroud are probably from a Standard. Is the shroud black plastic?

The filler neck on the Standard sits an inch or so outboard of the Custom rad, which I have mounted on my Standard. Not sure about a Deluxe rad, but I think it's the same as the Custom. It's tight, but workable.

Just remove the tank. It's not that hard.


R
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, the 'spare' radiator comes from a CX500C according to the ones available on eBay. Once I got it off, the fins on the inside are a mess and a section in one corner shows green (a rapaired leak - stop leak?), so replacing it is a great idea, even with a Custom one.I can use Gorilla tape to extend the shroud present on the D model and absent on the C. SO, I am being told to remove the fuel tank. I' hear and obey great advisors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, the job is well done. According to the pictures on page 9-3, my rad and fairing are identical which means nothing in the long run. I was able to discover a lot of rust on the underside of the gas tank and I attacked that with rust reformer then Rust-oleum. Also the parts underneath have a new coat of paint. Not quite as nice as a full frame-off with a powder coat job but nice to my eye and various parts replaced.
Thanks all.
John Redman
Grafton, NH
 

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BTW: Welcome to the forum. Please add your location to your profile and your bike's model and model year to your signature (see Forum Settings link in my signature) so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget.

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike has had 38 years of Previous Owners who may or may not have done the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage. I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel because old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet. If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid).

And re having to take the gas tank off to fill the radiator: It isn't as big a deal as you might think. When everything is working as it should you can keep an eye on the level of coolant in the system by looking at the coolant recovery tank (behind the engine) so you should only need to get at the actual rad cap when it is time to service the cooling system (every 4-5 years with modern coolants)
CX/GL500/650 Cooling System Servicing:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, the job is well done. According to the pictures on page 9-3, my rad and fairing are identical which means nothing in the long run. I was able to discover a lot of rust on the underside of the gas tank and I attacked that with rust reformer then Rust-oleum. Also the parts underneath have a new coat of paint. Not quite as nice as a full frame-off with a powder coat job but nice to my eye and various parts replaced.
Thanks all.
John Redman
Grafton, NH
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'll check on my profile. All good advice. I have replacement coolant, the non-poisonous kind. I spoke too soon about 'job done'. I still have to reconnect the chrome water pipe. Is there a trick? I tried to connect the rad end first then am trying to do the other end. Nothing works yet. Am using Dawn to lube the insertions. Now, on page 9-9, top is the minimal instruction about this chrome pipe. In fac, as you know, there are TWO enlarged bumps in this pipe at this end. WHERE does the O-ring get positioned? In the mid position I cannot get the pipe inserted enough to allign with the clamps, even with the Dawn.

John Redman
Grafton, NH
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just checked my profile. I can't find the part about the bike that I have but the rest is what I filled out already. The bike I have is a 1981 CX500D and looks exactly like the one in the FSM. Tires: where is the date codes located?
 

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Never ever use dish liquid on anything aluminum where it won't be completely flushed away afterward Easy Method to Ruin your Wheels | Randakk's Blog (if it can damage wheels it can damage anything aluminum).

I always recommend:
1) Clean the inside of the port for the water pipe so that it shines. Any dirt or corrosion in the opening will make it harder to get the pipe & ring in.
2) Put the o-ring on the pipe (some say on the end, some say between the ribs, I buy them 50 at a time on eBay for a few cents each and use 2 each time), then apply a smear of good quality silicone grease to the outside of ring and push it straight into the hole.
3) Connect the hose to the other end of the pipe after it is in and the clamps are bolted on.

The Forum settings link in my signature has pictures to show you where to find the settings.
 

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I'll check on my profile. All good advice. I have replacement coolant, the non-poisonous kind. I spoke too soon about 'job done'. I still have to reconnect the chrome water pipe. Is there a trick? I tried to connect the rad end first then am trying to do the other end. Nothing works yet. Am using Dawn to lube the insertions. Now, on page 9-9, top is the minimal instruction about this chrome pipe. In fac, as you know, there are TWO enlarged bumps in this pipe at this end. WHERE does the O-ring get positioned? In the mid position I cannot get the pipe inserted enough to allign with the clamps, even with the Dawn.

John Redman
Grafton, NH
Lube the receiver with silicone plumber's grease. The o-ring goes above the first hump and gets compressed against the ledge inside the receiver.

In my experience, lubing the o-ring causes it to slide over the hump and become misaligned or pinched.


R
 

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Either way will work much easier than trying to install it dry.

BTW: I forgot to mention that if you don't have silicone grease you should get some because you will need it when you work on your brakes.
 
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