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1981 Cx500E
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Hi guys.
First of all, sorry, may be somebody opened a topic before. i tried to find in past but could not. I have a 1981 cx500. I am on a cafe racer project and i want to use a lithium battery on my bike. I do not have to much electric tecnical info and i could not find somebody to ask it. Because of that i am here. I need techical infos about which parts need to be replaced for lithium battery? Ultrabatt multimighty 300cca is what i want to buy. For this battery, what parts should i replace other then rectifier/regulator? And if there is a brand and model you can recommend for the parts, I would be very happy if you let me know. Thanks.
 

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Hi guys.
First of all, sorry, may be somebody opened a topic before. i tried to find in past but could not. I have a 1981 cx500. I am on a cafe racer project and i want to use a lithium battery on my bike. I do not have to much electric tecnical info and i could not find somebody to ask it. Because of that i am here. I need techical infos about which parts need to be replaced for lithium battery? Ultrabatt multimighty 300cca is what i want to buy. For this battery, what parts should i replace other then rectifier/regulator? And if there is a brand and model you can recommend for the parts, I would be very happy if you let me know. Thanks.
Most good batteries are now LiFeP04....with a BMS (battery management system) inside the battery..
I can link to a article.....
Lithium Motorcycle Batteries: Myths VS Realities – Updated

the battery will probably need padding to isolate from vibration (as its smaller)
 

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1985 Honda Goldwing Limited Edition - 1995 Honda Goldwing GL1500 SE - 2012 Suzuki V-Strom DL1000
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Talked to a lithium battery manufacturer yesterday. Company is Alberta Lithium in Canada: Lithium Batteries

Good info. The company mentioned that most of its batteries are primarily used in snowmobiles with no issues. I asked about charging while not in use, company mentioned that if you ride often, and with the small battery discharge when not in use, won't require a charger.

Your RR has a reference voltage of 14.2 VDC and should be sufficient to charge the lithium battery and operate the bike's electrical system. Changing the RR to another shunt type RR will not change the refference voltage of the RR or the operation of the electrical system. If you want to upgrade the RR, go with a series RR - still has a reference voltage of 14.2 VDC.

There is no such RR as a MOSFET RR. A MOSFET is an internal electronic component that is more efficient than the older electronic components, been around for a long time. New RRs, series or shunt use this technology, or not depending on price point I would imagine. A shunt RR with the MOSFET internal components, still shunts excess power to ground, just does it more efficiently. Have to admit that the MOSFET name has caught on and is like the snowmobile world with the name Skidoo, nose tissues are Kleenex, and such, brand recognition.

The battery is installed for three reasons. To start the bike, to absorb electrical system spikes and such, and to supplement the electrical system when the power being generated by the 3 part alternator system - rotor/stator/external RR, is not enough to adequately provide for the electrical system requirements, not recommended to operate the electrical system with the battery removed. Used to do this years ago, but not now.

Once the engine RPM is again increased such that the alternator is putting out sufficient power to operate the electrical system without being supplemented, the battery receives a quick top up and becomes a passenger as such until the next time it is required to do work.

Just a few thoughts. Good luck.
 
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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I don't have an answer to your question (both of my bikes have sidecars so there is room for a larger than stock lead acid battery on them) but welcome to the forum.
Please add your bike's model and model year to your profile so that you don't have to remember to tell us every time and we don't have to keep asking when you forget (see Forum Settings link in my signature).

And welcome to the world of antique vehicle ownership (they own us, not the other way around). Your bike is about 4 decades old and may or may not have had all of the maintenance necessary to keep it safe & reliable so it is highly recommended to download the Factory Shop Manual for your model (available through the CX Wiki - link in my signature) and go through all of the service procedures, regardless of whether your bike has reached the specified mileage.
I also recommend looking on all rubber parts with suspicion because rubber does not age gracefully. Check the date codes on your tires and replace them if they are over 5 years old no matter how good they look & feel (old rubber simply cannot flow around the irregularities in the asphalt well enough to grip, especially if it is cool or wet). If your bike still has the original rubber brake line(s) (should be replaced every 2 or 3 fluid changes = 5 or 6 years) I recommend shopping for modern stainless braided ones (they last practically forever and double the life of the fluid). And don't forget things like the rad hoses and the boot between the engine and swingarm (they can crack on the bottom where you don't see it).

Most good batteries are now LiFeP04....with a BMS (battery management system) inside the battery..
I can link to a article.....
Lithium Motorcycle Batteries: Myths VS Realities – Updated
That is an interesting article and had me convinced that they might actually know what they were talking about until I got to where it says "By full power, we mean over 13 volts. So, lithium will deliver current over 13 volts until the bitter end." and they lost all credibility by demonstrating that they don't understand basic concepts about voltage, power and current.
 

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Point of note Bob....ive seen many a technical or medical article with later issued corrections...
Despite proof reading sometimes errors are missed...

In previous posts as i mentioned many CB750 owners use lithium iron po4, without electrical mods... the basis of the article gives the reasoning affecting that .
 

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Point of note Bob....ive seen many a technical or medical article with later issued corrections...
Despite proof reading sometimes errors are missed...

In previous posts as i mentioned many CB750 owners use lithium iron po4, without electrical mods... the basis of the article gives the reasoning affecting that .
I understand what you’re saying but I’ve read about too many failures that resulted in fire and melt down to assume someone giving advice on the matter made such a basic mistake on electrical terminology simply because he didn’t proof read it.
 

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I understand what you’re saying but I’ve read about too many failures that resulted in fire and melt down to assume someone giving advice on the matter made such a basic mistake on electrical terminology simply because he didn’t proof read it.
Which brings me back to LiFePO4-my first suggestion....
.
 
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