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1,153 Posts
Get them started early helping with the bikes! (y)

100 Posts

100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
The next thing I want to show you is my coolant expansion tank and its holder, made of stainless steel metal sheet

For this I "just" drilled a few holes in a piece of sheet metal and cut out the bars in between with the flex and filed them in.

Before that, I made a sketch in Corel Draw in which I marked all the hole centers. I printed out this sketch and glued it to the sheet metal.


...Then glass bead blasted, a couple of rubber pads glued on, bent over and attached to the rear motor mounts:



The hip flask has a volume of 200 ml (7 OZ), although it doesn't look like it. This corresponds exactly to the amount of the original expansion tank from completely empty to the max mark.

The connections later will be concealed on the back of the container so that the optics are not disturbed.



1978 CX500 "The Grub", '83 GL650, '82 GL500 Project "AdventureWing", '79 CX500C, '78 CX500 Scrambler
10,215 Posts
Very creative solution for the speed sensor. Have you noticed any vibration from the unbalanced wheel hub?

100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Why should the wheel hub not be balanced? The wheel is completely balanced with tube and tire.

Apart from this a few grams so close to the axis would not noticeable anyway. ;)


100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
One day I went to a motorcycle shop. I "only" wanted to get a reflector for my 500cc. But when I saw this LED headlight from Highsider, I couldn't resist:



The part looks really nice oldschool, despite modern technology and the great thing is that I didn't even have to change the headlight pot: The pot is identical to that of my "old" headlight and the insert fits perfectly. :D

After the chrome plating of the old taillight base plate didn't really work out, with a lot of luck I was able to get a new one.
But please don't ask me what I paid for it. :rolleyes:

The old, newly refurbished taillight and license plate holder could then also be completed. If these things are well preserved, they are now weighed in gold.

I was lucky at the time and was able to buy a pretty bad one for 29 €.

It was no longer beautiful with all the holes, but at least nothing was welded or bent:


After I welded and sanded the superfluous holes and the part came from powder coating (15 €), you can get going again, I think:



100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
The next job was the exhaust brackets.

Since I no longer need any pillion footrests, the holders are superfluous. But I didn't want to cut them away because they are very complex and also combined with the holder for the rear brake pump on the right side.

So I used it to hang the rear silencers on.

The special thing about it was that the mountings on the silencer itself are on a different level and I didn't want to pull the holder all the way down.

After making two / three cardboard templates, the solution was quickly found.

The choice of materials fell on 8 mm thick aluminum plates. The design should be adapted to the lamp holder and the speedometer holder.


A sketch on a 1: 1 scale was made with Corel Draw, printed on adhesive labels and the sketches stuck onto the plates.

After the holes were made, the holders were cut out with the jigsaw. The strange fraying comes from the cling film that was stuck over the sketch so that it is protected from the spirit used for cooling lubrication when drilling and not rubbed off when sawing.


Then they were processed with an aluminum rasp, filed a little, sanded and polished.

I didn't try too hard and deliberately refrained from removing the last traces of editing.
After all, it's handcrafted and should look like it.




..."Built not bought" :D


100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 · (Edited)
You are making it all look easy and we all know it is not! Nice craftsmanship for sure.
Hi D-Fresh,

the purely mechanical work is usually the least. Because it means relaxation for me, I don't look at the clock. With the right music and a bottle of beer, time can quickly become a minor matter. :D

... Before the actual work there is the idea and the approach to the solution step by step. Sometimes you stand at the bike for half an hour or more, look at the frame and try one or the other.

You don't always immediately see the options you have. Such things has to mature. Ideas are born and then discarded. This also creates such style blossoms as you see here:


At home on the computer you look at the photo again, try a little paint and the next day you cut a new pattern.

Only when it is finished and "assembled" you notice the wrong angle between the upper strut and the brake pump. :)

And when you are finally ready, you determine the dimensions and make the drawing that you need as a template to cut out. You don't want to waste material unnecessarily. Scratching is not because it should be polished afterwards and the "scratches" would then be annoying.
It would be uneven with an abrasion-resistant pen. With a strut width of 12 mm you can see half a mm very clearly. ;)

... Due to the frame is asymmetrical on the left and right because of the cardan, you can do everything again for the left side. At least you can benefit from the experiences of the other side. :D

Once you have left all these hurdles behind you, the next step is drilling, sawing, filing, grinding and polishing. All of this together then takes a maximum of two hours for each side and is pure relaxation compared to the preparatory work. :)

... And at the end you open a bottle of beer, turn the music a little louder, sit down in front of the motorcycle and let everything act to yourself for another half an hour. :D:D:D


Super Moderator
22,141 Posts
Quote - "You don't always immediately see the options you have. Such things has to mature. Ideas are born and then discarded. This also creates such style blossoms as you see here: "

On my build I made so many choices on the smallest of things that I intend my next one to be similar - only with some of the other paths than the last one took.

Love your work.

My next ones bracketry will likely now be skeletal. I've seen yours now.....

1,153 Posts
The build process sounds like a Zen experience for you and it shows. Love all your custom fabrication, definitely “built not bought”. Carry on!

100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
... Carry on!

Yes, I do, but this is just the beginning.

The project is not finished yet. It´s much further along, but I've just started to present it here in this forum. ;)

The original reservoir for the rear brake was too big and the plastic part wasn't an option for me.
It´s position is way too high, the hose is too long and also way too thick.


At KC-engineering I found a nice little expansion tank for it, which fits in wonderfully into the overall picture. Made of aluminum, polished and beautifully classically shaped. :D


But the plastic connector on the brake pump should not fit at all.

Winkel Plaste.jpg

...So I took a piece of brass and made it of brass





...It´s only a small part, but thease are just the details which make the difference. :D


100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
The beautiful vintage rear light with the yellow brake light is unfortunately no longer permitted for this year of construction.

And since I don't want to have any problems with the registration because of something like that, I decided for a cheap red brake light from the accessories of a Moto Guzzi V7.


Of course I don't really like the thing and also it doesn't really fit:


True to the motto "Doesn't work, doesn't exist, what does not fit is made to fit and what cannot be converted is broken" the thing was pimped.

And so a new lower part of the housing was created from an aluminum block:








...and after registration it will be changed to this one again :D:D:D


100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
When you have the machines, you sometimes come up with ideas
that you would otherwise never have thought of. ;)

The standard oil filter on the CX seemed a bit too boring to me.


The idea matured to replace it with a filter from the CB 750, for which there is even a suitable oil cooler. But plug & play didn't want to fit. Therefore the gear cover had to be milled out a bit at the transition to the clutch housing, ...


... to create space for an adapter plate.



The fastening bolt for the adapter plate


was dimensioned in such a way that it seals against the gear unit cover (CU seal) and at the same time already presses the adapter plate slightly. What is important here is the seal on the gear unit cover (oil pressure side).


The radiator, which has previously been freed of its fins on the side facing the clutch, is now pushed on to it, ...


... and then screwed on the filter housing



The visually interesting thing is the pleasant spin-off that the ribs of the CB cooler and the filter housing have the same distance as the ribs on the motor housing and with which they also form a line. :D


100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #35 ·
You will surely agree with me that the small original oil pan of the 650 is actually not a real pan, but rather a cover. ;)

I like these fat oil pans with the intermediate rings on the Guzzis and the BMW 2-valve engines, and I would like to have also something like that on my CX 650 Caferacer. :D

After some researches at the Bavarians and Italians, I ended up on the Honda shelf again.

The choice finally fell on the pan of the CB 750. ...I had the feeling it could fit and also it has a built-in baffle. This struck me as particularly interesting because the oil pressure on the 500 occasionally collapses when the oil sloshes forward too much when braking hard and exposes the intake pipe of the oil pump.


At first I only ordered the paper-seals.

The stacking of the original CX oil pan seal and the seal of the CB pan confirmed my gut feeling: the pan just fits scratch along at two places. But, it fits! :D

The next step was to mill an adapter plate from a 15 mm thick aluminum plate. And that thing almost drove me to despair.

A "drawing" only existed in the head. Think in mirror image, project any dimensions and areas from bottom to top, edit in which order... :unsure:

I can't just draw it in CAD and enter it into a CNC machine, but just have an 85-year-old Deckel FP1 milling machine, on which the automatic feed does not work and I am allowed to crank diligently and evenly in all directions.

Then there are the bevels, umpteen times reclamping and the diameters. One time turned it the wrong way and "the game" will be over. ;)

At first only roughly pre-milled, the matter looked very promising. :)


The plate was still extremely heavy and was milled out from the inside in two stages. Reinforcing ribs remained between the individual fields


Then the top was machined and everything around the sealing surface was milled off.


In the last section, the lock nut of the tool holder has loosened and the milling cutter has worked its way into the surface. :(

But I was lucky, and after the unsightly chatter marks had been removed, a residual wall thickness of 2.6 mm remained in the fields between the ribs. :)

... After adjusting the contours with a file and emery cloth, I was quite happy with the result. :D






100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
The details show how tight it was in some places. ;)







The processing marks that you can see here and there don't bother me in the slightest and fit very well into the overall concept. I don't want sterile industrial production.

It is "handmade" and you are allowed to see it. :D

100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So that the oil can also be sucked in from the large sump, of course the suction pipe had to be extended and the suction strainer moved further down.

In the 650 series, the funnel with the sieve is an independent part and not, as with the 500 series, firmly soldered to the suction tube. Before installing the oil pan, it is simply inserted from below into a sleeve, sealed with O-rings and then rests on a recess in the pan.


To extend it, I turned an intermediate piece made of aluminum, which, like the original, has a sleeve on one side and an O-ring groove on the other, and, I have shown this a bit exaggerated in the photo, a certain lateral inclination in all directions to position the sieve in the right place.


Therefor, that the intake funnel does not fall down, a bracket must be built.

To do this, a 1.5 mm sheet was roughly cut out with a sheet shear, a 12-hole hole was drilled in the middle and two round blanks were prepared, between which the sheet was clamped for further processing with a 12 mm screw.

One of the round blanks was given a radius, the other was turned a little smaller in outer diameter.

Everything was clamped together in the lathe and the sheet metal turned to the desired diameter.

Then the whole thing was clamped in the vice and the protruding edge of the sheet was placed over the lath with the radius:



In the end, this plate emerged from this:


The plate was then put on the lathe and turned from the inside so that the sieve is exposed and the funnel lies in the edge of the plate:


Then suitable holders were bent from sheet metal strips and soldered to the ring:




In addition, the ring has been given a tab on which the funnel is aligned and positioned.

And so everything is screwed together with the adapter plate before the oil pan is put on. The sieve hangs securely and stably about 10 mm above the bottom of the tub.


100 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Next I wanted to focus on the rear brake.

The first version with the Hornet brake caliper I didn't like anymore. (n)


The holder was too bulky and the braking torque support on the swing arm would have got in the way when removing the rear wheel.

I also didn't really like the fact that the Hornet caliper was down on the CX


First attempts with a Brembo caliper failed because the caliper did strike again the wheel hub


This meant that the beautiful adapter, made from the Goldwing disk, did not fit anymore and had to be replaced with a thicker one. :cry:

So that the new adapter can be as thin as possible, I used a 240 mm brake disc instead of the 220.

Since I liked the original version very much, I first turned a ring with a collar that centers the disc just like the old one. The 6 holes were quickly pre-drilled with 5.8 mm on the rotary table and became 6H7 fit, so that they are really round.

Basically you could have used the adapter like this, but somehow that didn't meet my requirements:


The aim was to adapt the disc mount to the large brake disc like the old one from the Goldwing brake disc. ;)

The challenge was that the cutouts were 1.) not circular, but elliptical and 2.) tangential.

But how am I supposed to do that on a simple milling machine? :unsure:

You normally need a CNC milling machine for this, but I only have an 85-year-old machine that didn't even have the automatic feed anymore.

Turntable / dividing apparatus was clear. However, the workpiece had to be clamped eccentrically and relatively easily offset by 60 ° in order to get a 6-fold division. The radius of the arc was so large that the workpiece had to be clamped outside the turntable. :unsure:

So a device had to be found somewhere that I can attach to the turntable on the one hand and on which I can clamp the workpiece on the other. ... and which at the same time meets the above requirements. :unsure:

...By chance my eyes fell on a wheel hub that I still had on the shelf: it should make it possible to save the production of a workpiece holder. :D

The hub was "simply" clamped on the edge of the turntable. This gave the radius and the workpiece itself could be clamped on the hub and moved in 60 ° steps. The arc is carried out with the turntable and the small radius tapering towards the edge results from the diameter of the milling cutter. That’s the theory.

An attempt with the old adapter worked:


I don't want to comment on every single step now and just let the pictures speak for themselves:




... briefly finish and done:


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