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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How does this happen? with a attempt to fix a water pump seal I have now a big job ahead of me . After having trouble with reinstalling mech seal I later learned it does not fit ! so now the engine has to come out and apart to modify the hole......I can't believe this, I order the part from Honda and yet it doesn't fit?? Any suggestions here would be great !
 

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Do a search here for "shep's method"
 

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How does this happen? with a attempt to fix a water pump seal I have now a big job ahead of me . After having trouble with reinstalling mech seal I later learned it does not fit ! so now the engine has to come out and apart to modify the hole......I can't believe this, I order the part from Honda and yet it doesn't fit?? Any suggestions here would be great !


Before pulling the motor did you leave the cup for the mech seal in place or is it out? If the metal cup is in place use Sheps method to do this.



http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=355



It is what I did and works great. If I can just get the rest working....

 

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The earlier smaller mech seal is apparently discontinued and the part # for the later, larger seal has been put onto the earlier piece just to increase the confusion.



You already have the old seal out?



I use a die grinder to enlarge the seal orifice and others use a flap wheel. Either method will work with care. Check your progress often, it is much easier to remove more material than it is to put it back!



The upside is that once you have done this future mech. seal changes will be a drop in.



I use AES [Davey pump] mech seals so I of course size the hole to take these.



Bear in mind that these seals are designed to be an interference fit so your hole will still need to be slightly undersized.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I already have the "cup" out. I was just going to replace the entire assy. Just didn't know what I had done I guess. Well the good news is there is a fix just a long way around to do this now. I found some info here on a yamaha part # 11H12438-00 that is a less expensive option? I really wanted to get this all back together this weekend so maybe a dealer would have one of these??
 

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Welcome to the forum. Please take a few minutes to edit your profile to show your location and to edit your signature to show your bike's year and model.



The Yamaha seal is the same size as the larger Honda seal so you have nothing to gain as far as fit goes. It simply costs less.



AFAIK, a new seal of the smaller size like yours is no longer available from any source.



Take a few minutes to check out the Quick Reference thread. In particular, check out the links under "Mechanical Seal in bike install or engine out."



You can either use Shep's method to transplant the innards of the new seal to the old seal's metal cup or you can enlarge the rear engine case seal bore slightly so the new seal will fit.
 

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I did the seal transfer method and after two years not a problem on my 1980 CX 500.
 

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Note:The inners can be used in either metal cup from either sized seal but note the warnings on my page,



http://www.pdsrecording.site90.com/cxgl500/Mseal.html



Possible causes for a Failed job so please read.



1:Tearing the inner seal on removal from the new cup by not heating it up enough to release the old glue.

2:Not using enough or incorrect Sealant

3:Not orientating the inner seal correctly when fitting so it's grooves match the small flutes on the raised metal cup tube.

4:Not lubricating the Polo mint and Carbon face of the seal with some soap/oil





Another link for the larger Yamaha seals,



http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/138793
 

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The biggest mistake for the smallest part of the whole engine is that stupid copper crush washer. We need it illustrated in a big sticky with illustrations.



Just because some of us know about it that doesn't mean new owners of the Cx will see the problem if its in the wrong place or missing.
 

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Here's one you may want to add to the list:



5. Getting impatient and turning the engine over before the sealant has time to cure.


Considering the time it takes to get the carbs back on if the sealer used hasn't cured by then there's just no hope for some people




I've added a bit more info for the copper washer to my page.Will update forum thread as well.
 

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Actually, there really is an element of risk.



In the GL shop manual, instructions are given to "Rotate the crankshaft to make sure that the pump turns freely without binding" immediately after the impeller cap nut is tightened.
 

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Actually, there really is an element of risk.



In the GL shop manual, instructions are given to "Rotate the crankshaft to make sure that the pump turns freely without binding" immediately after the impeller cap nut is tightened.


Good point Dave.Will amend to suit.This may be why some people have had a failure.
 

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Note:The inners can be used in either metal cup from either sized seal but note the warnings on my page,.......


Can you put the new seal into the old cup and put the unit back in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No I destroyed the old cup getting it out. I did find dealer with the seal though ( yamaha ) so I guess no better time than the present to tear out the engine and get to it !






Well engine out and cover off... I did the paddle wheel idea while keeping an eye on my measurement worked good, pressed the mech seal in then installed the oil seal from the back. All back together now so I'm letting sealants dry overnight then I will reinstall the engine tomorrow and fire it back up. I hope all goes well now
 

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Did you check the timing chain for wear?



Also once you fit the rear cover, make sure you can shift through the gears before installing the engine.
 
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