Honda CX 500 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So before explaining the issue, I'll give some info on my bike:
I purchased the bike almost 4 years ago and it wouldn't charge the battery. Ended up replacing the stator with a G8 model and also purchased the ignitech module. Everything ran good, and charging system worked great. Cut forward a few years and I replaced the coils with the pit bike ones recommended on the forum. New spark plugs and everything was working great with a nice strong spark on both sides. No issues at all since then.....until yesterday.

I was driving down to Port Dover with a group of friends and the bike was working great. Going about 90 km/h when all of a sudden I lost a significant amount of power. Felt like it was only firing on one side. I was able to get it to a buddies place and discovered that there was no spark on the left side of the bike. Then we spent some time trying to figure out what was wrong.

First test: Bad spark plug? The same plug that didn't work on the left, worked fine on the right and gave a nice healthy spark. Therefore, plugs seem okay.
Second test: Bad ignition coil? Same result as the plugs, the left coil worked perfectly fine when hooked up to the right coil lead and gave a strong spark. Therefore, coils seem okay.
Third test: Short in wire going to left coil? Checked for continuity and there was indeed no short in the wire and coil was grounded properly. Therefore, wires seem okay.
Fourth test: Bad pickups? Checked to ensure position signals were coming from the pickups by turning the engine over by hand and checking for signal continuity at both right side and left side pickups throughout engine cycle and got positive readings from both sides. Along with this test, I also did the stator test to ensure all was good there too. Results were as follows: 1/5 - 112 ohms, 2/5 - 90 ohms, 4/5 - 107 ohms, 6/5 - 91 ohms. I should also note that the charging system still seemed to work fine. Therefore, pickups and stator seem okay.

Aside from these test I also cleaned all the contacts in the plugs going too and from the ignitech and stator, and visually checked everything else I could think of. The only thing left in the system is the ignitech module which is why I think it must be partially fried or damaged. Again, the right side of the bike runs fine and has great spark, but left side has no spark at all.

So if anyone has any advice, or has had similar issues, or has any ideas on what else to test, I am all ears because I can't think of anything else.

Thanks!

Vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's what I was afraid of :(

Unless my mulitmeter is lying to me, on the right side (which has a spark) I read 100 V when the ignition is turned on but not cranking over, and a spike of around 550 V when the starter is pushed. From reading around, this sounds totally messed up as there should only be a spike of voltage of around 150 V when cranking over and no voltage when ignition is turned on.

On the left side (which has no spark) I read 25 V when the ignition is turned on, and only 35 V when cranking over. This too seems wrong, and definitely not enough to cause a spark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
324 Posts
I had the same problem only on the left side.I sent my IGNITECH to another Forum member, he plugged it into his bike and he also had no spark on left side. I was lucky I am still using the original G-7 windings so I plugged my old CDI back into the bike and it's running good until I can find another IGNITECH module. Communication with the manufacture is slow, so am not sure how many weeks or months it will take to get a replacement. Best of luck to you! Let me know if you find a cheaper source for a module than the manufacture.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Aw bummer :( well that settles it then, sounds like I am on the search for a new ignitech. I know Cobram does his group buys, but hopefully I won't have to wait that long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Both the Rae San and the Finnbox look like nice alternatives to the ignitech, but from what I understand, the Rae San requires the original CDI unit to work, and the Finnbox requires a G47 stator. Is this correct? If so, I do not have either of these things so it wouldn't work with my system from what I can see?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,398 Posts
I'm on the original stator. G47. Finnbox was a plug-n-play after I matched up the connectors. Took about 20 minutes to remove seat, swap connectors, install, attach seat.


I beleive the Rae-san replaces the original CDI
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,094 Posts
Raesan is self {DC 12 volt} powering and is more equivalent to an ignitech in that it doesn't run from the stator coils.

The Raesan that requires the original ignition to work is simply an alternative power supply fot the original CDI and replaces the stator functions. It is called the Raymodule here and is not in itself an ignition.

Raesan IGNITIONS are ignitions though.

A Raymodule is handy to have. It is literally a 100% effective test of stator function by replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,398 Posts
Ahh.... thanks

My bit of confusion...... 2 units. Rae-san is ignition. Raymodule is power supply. Do i got that right? Or am I still confuzzled?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
there are 3 units in fact -
1 raymodule - the original CDI_PSU - only replaces the stator - trying not to build these except for special cases now ( like outboard motors ...)
2 STOCK_PICKUP IGNITION - CX_CDI_STOCK - direct equivalent to the ignitech - runs of 12V and uses the stock high and low speed pulser cols (not the advance and NOT the stator charging coils) - drop in place of the original CDI box.
3 HALL_EFFECT_IGNITION - CX_CDI_HALL - uses a rotor, hall sensor and electronic to replace the whole chain except the coils - runs of 12V, and only needs working ignition coils -

clear ?
Regards
Rayman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ahhhhhhhhhh see now it all makes perfect sense!! When I was looking at the Rae-San stuff before, I didn't realize there were different systems. I thought the different models were for different types of bikes (CDI, TI, etc...) and couldn't figure out what the difference was between them all. Guess I should have read the website more carefully haha. That really clears up a lot of questions then! Thanks you guys, I am starting to wrap my head around this now.

In that case from what I can tell, the Rae-San Stock Kit would be sufficient for my needs as both the pickups and stator are working fine (as you stated, it is basically an ignitech replacement). The next step up would be to purchase the full Rae-San Hall Effect Kit which essentially removes the need for the original pickups and replaces them with a more modern method of getting the spark timing.

So just to be sure, this system works with the G8 stator and I will no longer need the Ignitech?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Another quick question, what is the biggest difference between the Rae-San system (excluding the hall effect sensor and rotor system) and the Ignitech?
Seems like the price is very similar, but why would it be best to choose one over the other? So far I am leaning towards trying the Rae-San system as ignitech as failed me once now :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
the Rae-san should be a bit cheaper - the price is in aussie pesos - not us dollars - but similar if you are comparing against the bulk buy price.
The rae san has replaceble CDI driver units - the most common failure on the ignitech.
the rae-san only has 4 curves provided - whereas the ignitech offers full programmability ( but how many have really used it)
the ignitech is smaller
Im available via email for support - within 24h usually within 8h -

(plus or minus interpretation is up to you ;) )

Regards
Rayman
 
  • Like
Reactions: Motomicah

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
expect a case update / packaging revision soon - just getting my 3d printer sorted out atm.

Rayman
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,218 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, seeing as the Ignitech has let me down once, I think I will be going with the Rae-San unit. Seeing as my pickups are working fine though, and I don't want to deal with taking off the rear cover and whatnot, I'll just get the Rae-San Stock kit and save a bit on the money. But now I kind of want to wait for the new casing :p

Two more questions:

What is the overall size of the unit? I just need to make sure it will fit in the same spot as the Ignitech.

If I do go with just the Rae-San stock kit, later on am I able to just purchase the hall effect circuit (not the whole Rae-San Hall Effect Kit) and use that instead of the pickups without purchasing the whole unit again? Or do both kits consists of different main modules?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top