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In the process of prepping the motor to repaint it, I think I stripped almost all the old coating (with the help of paint stripper and the dremel). But now I really like the motor in it's stripped state and don't want to paint it. It has a nice "patina" to it actually



Is it really necessary to actually paint the motor? If I leave it unpainted, would it be enough to spray it down every so often with some kind of lubricant (like WD40)? Thanks.
 

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If you don't spray down your engine it will eventually look like a turd if it isn't cared for. The 78's weren't painted and I have seen several that look good but I have one in the basement that looks like it is growing moss. It's that bad.



If I were you and wanted to keep it the way it is I would still paint it. But I would use Duplicolor clear engine enamel. Then it at least has something on it. But their aluminum color looks really good too.
 

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I have used both duplicolor and por-15 engine enamel on Dodge Dakota engine blocks. Personally, the duplicolor looked less shiny and a little less durable than the por-15 engine enamel. Just curious, how durable have you found the duplicolor to be?







Above is duplicolor.







And this one is por-15.
 

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It's nothing like using a single stage paint on the engine but it does an ok job. Rattlecans aren't always reliable but they are abundant.
 

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If you don't spray down your engine it will eventually look like a turd if it isn't cared for. The 78's weren't painted and I have seen several that look good but I have one in the basement that looks like it is growing moss. It's that bad.



If I were you and wanted to keep it the way it is I would still paint it. But I would use Duplicolor clear engine enamel. Then it at least has something on it. But their aluminum color looks really good too.


I can't really tell whether my 78 was painted or just clear coated, but it looks like a GL500 where it's worn away. I'll take a closer look tomorrow, now you've got me curious.



I wonder what Honda used to clearcoat parts like the valve covers? Whatever it was, it's probably illegal to use now, funny how things become bad for the environment just about the same time the patent runs out...



Any BTDT with clearcoat on bare engine? Wonder which brands/types hold up best. There's also clear powder coat that might work well too.
 

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Bare alloy will oxidise and you'll eventually get that nasty white 'furr'

ACF50 would be better than WD40 for protecting bare alloy but

anything's better than leaving it to the elements.
 

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OK, I know some of you guys are gonna slap your foreheads and mumble... lol.... but reading this I started thinking.... "wait, I can paint my motor black too?" Not that I will for sure, but it was a thought..... what kind of prep goes into that? I mean, it's a flippin' motor- usually I leave them alone unless something needs maintenance or fixing- so I've never even thought about painting a motor......





interesting. Guess you do learn something new everyday.
 

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'84 CX650E that is evolving into a GL500
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I painted the motor in my GL500 with PlastiKote Universal Gray. The guy who bought the 500 from me installed it in his bike left it gray. It looked really nice in the pics he sent me. The engine in my GoldWing is Pontiac engine Blue.



If you want the engine to be black (or gray or any colour they make) clean the engine really well, wash it with detergent and hot water, let it dry overnight, wipe it done with lacquer thinner and paint it. As soon as the first coat is dry (maybe 5-10 minutes) give it a second coat. Let it dry at least overnight before touching it.



I have found that the only part of the engine that the paint comes off of is the front where the wheel sandblasts it, and even the factory finish tends to be thin there. A quick spray (with the engine in the frame) and its ready for the next season.
 

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would love to paint my engine black (matt), but lack the patience to spends 10's of hours sanding it, prepping it, degreasing, priming and then making a great mess of the paintjob and have it looking worse than it is.



only had the engine back in the bike a couple of days after it's rebuild, it's got a nice coating of grease on it at the moment holding the dreaded white fur at bay, but might have to give it a spray with the fancy acf-50 once I find out where they sell the stuff.
 

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would love to paint my engine black (matt), but lack the patience to spends 10's of hours sanding it, prepping it, degreasing, priming and then making a great mess of the paintjob and have it looking worse than it is.



only had the engine back in the bike a couple of days after it's rebuild, it's got a nice coating of grease on it at the moment holding the dreaded white fur at bay, but might have to give it a spray with the fancy acf-50 once I find out where they sell the stuff.


LOL



I degreased and pressure washed my engine, hit it with a self-etching primer, and shot it down with the VHT Titanium Metallic Silver. Looks good enough for me
 

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LOL



I degreased and pressure washed my engine, hit it with a self-etching primer, and shot it down with the VHT Titanium Metallic Silver. Looks good enough for me


if it's that easy then I'll give it a go! - was the engine completely stripped or in one chunk at the time ?
 

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Aloha,

I've painted my motor 2 times in the last 10 years, just using rattle cans. Silver both times with a clear coat. I used Dupli-Color Engine Enamle 500 Degree Silver and Clear the first time . The second time checkers was out of the clear so, I used Rust-Oleum Painters Touch Ultra Cover 2X Gloss Clear. Seems to be holding up fine.

The silver needs to dry overnight so, when you apply the clear it doesn't mottel (that's when the clear re-wets the silver and makes shadows).

At any rate, after a couple of years it starts bubbling from oxidation even after sanding and dremeling the nooks and crannies with a wire wheel.(Brass)

I like so, many to get back on the road have done rush jobs, even knowing how to do it properly.

In the 80's I worked stripping and painting small aircraft. Mostly Piper's and Cessna's.

So, if you have the time, patience and want a paint job that's going to last 10 to 20 years (maybe longer), here's how to do it.

Strip the engine with paint stripper. Seal the engine by plugging the intake and exhuast with rags and then silver duct tape them because stripper won't effect this tape but, it will loosen the glue and get under it unless you use a bondo squeegie or something similar to press it down tightly. Tape off the stator wire harness, shift shaft seal (I would replace the seals with new ones after it's painted just to be safe), clutch seal, cam shaft seal, etc. Overlap the silver tape about 1/4" onto the painted suface. Use a water souluble stripper so, you can wash it off with a water hose. I would not use a pressure washer. That could blow stripper into the engine. Apply the stripper to the engine and let it stand for 10 minutes or so. Then lightly scrub the engine preferably with a wood bristle brush, wire brush or something the stripper won't melt. Apply a second coat of stripper, let stand for another 5 to 10 minutes, scrub again. If you have any dry areas apply a third coat and let sit for 1 minute or 2, (if the stripper dries a new coat will reactivate it). Then spray it off with a water hose. Use a brush or scotch brite when rinsing to remove any residue. Don't hit it with water between coats or you'll neutralize the stripper and have to wait until the engine is completely dry to apply additional coats.

If you have or have access to a sand blaster it's the most efficient and thorough way to remove any corosion but, it's risky. You have to be careful and stay away from the seals and any other areas such as intake, exhuast etc. Unless of course you disassemble the entire motor.

The other way is after it's stripped is to use sand paper and a dremel to remove the corrosion.

After stripping, take a single edge or utility knife blade and cut the tape back to the seals or onto the seals so, you can take 220 or 320 grit wet and dry sand paper to remove the paint that wasn't stripped. Now it's ready for the aluminum prep. DuPont 225s and 226s. Read the aluminum prep instructions thoroughly as I think the window is 24 hours to get primer and or paint on the aluminum before it starts corroding all over again. It's a 2 part system which is an acid etch wash which you apply with a scotch brite, scrubbing it into the aluminum to clean it properly. Apply a second coat (with a spray bottle or wooden throw away brush). Then rinse well with water. Make sure it's thoroughly rinsed. Now apply the second stage which is an alodine solution. This seals the aluminum. Do this immediatly after rinsing off the acid etch sollution. Again, make sure all the acid is washed away. It's like washing dishes. There will be bubbles until it's thoroughly rinsed.

If at this point you discover you have missed some corrosion. Allow the engine to dry or blow it off with compressed air and then use a brass brush or wheel on your dremel and remove it. USE ONLY BRASS, DO NOT USE STEEL. Steel will create electrolosys and start it corroding immediatly. Blow off the motor and or hose it down agian.

Blow it off or let it dry and paint away.

If you decide to go all out and tear down the, motor you can always powder coat it.
 

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if it's that easy then I'll give it a go! - was the engine completely stripped or in one chunk at the time ?


I masked off the valve covers, and had the engine out of the bike and the coolant system pipes were off getting powdercoated at that time (did them in Viking Stainless Steel)
 

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P.S. Those who want to do a quick and easy Earl Scheib, Wham Bam Thank You Mam wash and paint. Degreese the engine. Use Tri-Sodium-Phosphate in a spay bottle. Shoot it on. Let it set a few minutes. Hose it off. Dry the engine and paint it.
 

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I painted a CX engine Satin Black and it looked great,better than matt black.No primer.Just a good scotchbrite and degrease and used High temp BBQ paint,



http://cgi.ebay.com/KRYLON-1618-BBQ...int-Can-/190420038289?pt=Paint_Paint_Supplies



Takes around 24 hours to fully cure but is then very robust.Also used on brake callipers for that modern satin black look.Above is just and example as I'm in the UK and this is the brand I use,



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/400ml-Plastik...Material_Paint_Varnish_MJ&hash=item4cedc3d573





For a good silver finish as per,







Plastikote 665 Satin Chrome is by far and away the best ever aerosol I've ever used.It dries fast,needs no primer,blends well for touch-ups and can handle the heat no problem.





HTH
 

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I painted a CX engine Satin Black and it looked great,better than matt black.
Yeah. I have always wondered why anyone would paint something that's so easy to get dirty and so hard to clean with matte black paint. The flat finish tends to give the dirt more to hold on to so it will be even harder to keep clean. I painted my winter machine's engine with gloss black and most of the dirt washes off pretty easily until it gets baked on for months because I won't wash it when its below freezing out, but it comes clean fairly easily when I get the brush and the hot soapy water out
 

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Yeah. I have always wondered why anyone would paint something that's so easy to get dirty and so hard to clean with matte black paint. The flat finish tends to give the dirt more to hold on to so it will be even harder to keep clean. I painted my winter machine's engine with gloss black and most of the dirt washes off pretty easily until it gets baked on for months because I won't wash it when its below freezing out, but it comes clean fairly easily when I get the brush and the hot soapy water out




Ditto.Matt Black is ok on say exhausts but it gets so dirty so quickly it spoils to easy and is hard to clean.



The Satin Black I posted above makes things look just like that modern great satin black finish and is as easy as Gloss black to clean.Identical to these engines and frame.Once cured even brake fluid doesn't harm it in small doses.







 

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In 2001 I had pulled my swing arm to service and paint it. I was working at a boat marina at the time and decided to try Mercury OutBoards Phantom Black rattle can spray paint. I'm pretty sure it's an epoxy. It took 2 or 3 days for it to completely cure but, it's hard as nails. To this day a coat of wax brings it back to looking like new and the top of the swing arm at the front where the rear wheel shoots road BB's at it has some pits but, nothing like the sand blasted large bare spot it was before. Good stuff. When I get around to stripping the bike completely anything that is black and doesn't get powdercoat gets Phantom Blacked. I payed 13 or 14 dollars for one can at West Marine back then. I've seen it online for 5 or 6 bucks. Rule of thumb is the longer a paint product takes to cure the more durable it is.

Happy Painting
 

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One more thing, I think?
Flat black has been used on motorcycle exhuasts and engines to dissapate heat. The color black itself draws heat and as opposed to gloss which is smooth, flat black at a micro level has mountians and valleys enlarging the surface area by double maybe triple.
 

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Yeah, but the difference is minimal and clean gloss will probably dissipate heat better than matte with a layer of mud... (those "micro level mountains and valleys" also give the dirt more surface to stick to)
 
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