[rxpx40]

Greetings Turbo techies!

I recently acquired my first CX500 Turbo from my mom. In her ownership the bike was cared for by professionals at a dealership in PA.

With 25K on the clock, I inherited the bike. So far, I've replaced the plugs, fanstat switch, battery and thermostat. Bike starts, but struggles with idle. Backfiring through the intake system and some serious coughing and farting around 3K rpm range.

Took the bike out today, hoping that running some fresh gasoline (93 octane) would help clear up these issues. About 5 miles from the house, the bike's *FUEL SYSTEM* indicator went on and the bike lost acceleration. The system would clear up and the bike would take off like a scalded cat until the fault would appear again. Turning the key off would clear the fault and the bike would run well again for a few moments.

At first guess I would lean toward the Throttle Position sensor, and I hoped searching this forum would reveal a known issue, but alas, there doesn't seem to be much banter about a similar issue here. Has anyone experienced a similar situation?

Thanks in advance. Sorry to read about Dan's wreck.



Chris

 

[George in Indiana]

I would suspect clogged injectors for the poor idle. When you say it takes off like a scalded cat, are you running wide open and spooling up the turbo? If the red bars lit up and the TURBO word flashed, you over boosted and the bike went into a fail safe mode due to a stuck waste gate.

Next time the fuel system light is on leave the bike running, pull the computer from the tail section and see what LEDS are lit on its side. If you turn the ignition off the code will be lost.

 

[timothy_d]

Well, if the new fuel allows the bike to run like a scalded cat, and then it goes into fail safe, the first thing I suspect is a stuck wastegate.



Fortunately, if this is the problem, is a relatively easy fix that has been discussed many times in the old forum.



You don't even have to take the fairing off.



You will need a set of open end wrenches, a bottle of Mouse Milk, a squirt bottle, and a phillips head screwdriver.



1) Remove the radiator screen from the fairing.

2) Locate the turbocharger's waste gate armature (it's on the left side of the turbocharger's actuator rod)

3) Put Mouse Milk into squirt bottle.

4) Soak the armature with Mouse Milk. (leave overnight)

5) Next morning, squirt a little more Mouse Milk on the armature.

6) Cycle through your open end wrenches until you find the one that fits over the armature.

7) Rock the armature back and forth lightly (right and left, not forward and back)



I cannot remember which direction the armature actually opens, but I remember that it was pretty obvious once I started manipulating the armature.



It will also be obvious once the armature breaks free, and once it does, hit it with Mouse Milk again and gently rock the armature back and forth for a couple of minutes. This will allow the Mouse Milk to penetrate further.



I had to do this precedure to my present bike twice, but I have not touched it since.

 

[phogroian]

Your Mom rode a CX Turbo? How cool is that! I though only us guys rode CXTs.

 

[rxpx40]

Your Mom rode a CX Turbo? How cool is that! I though only us guys rode CXTs.

Yea, Mom is cool. The Turbo was actually her husband's bike (my stepdad). While she did ride it occasionally, her bike was a Suzuki GS550E. I got both of them now and get to put them back into rideable shape.

Thanks for the replies- I've already determined the waste gate actuator is stuck. Now to free it up..

I'm off to find a mouse I can milk!



Chris

 

[rxpx40]

Well, if the new fuel allows the bike to run like a scalded cat, and then it goes into fail safe, the first thing I suspect is a stuck wastegate.

*and you were correct, my good man. Wastegate valve stuck like a big dog.

I cannot remember which direction the armature actually opens, but I remember that it was pretty obvious once I started manipulating the armature.

*Well, I applied logic to the issue and determined that the actuator ( on the left side of the assembly) had to *push* the wastegate valve armature due to being activated by the generation of over 18psi boost from the intake turbo.

I performed the Honda service procedure that says apply 18-20 psi pressure to the actuator. I got no movement whatsoever. I sprayed the actuator and wastegate valve with PB Blaster since I found no mice to milk around the shop. (I have a cat)

Trying to figure out how to get a wrench on the armature was very frustrating. I finally had to put the finesse aside and just get mad. Finally broke the valve assembly free and worked it back and forth (left to right) adding more penetrating oil. Kept at it until I decided to operate the actuator with the 20psi from my compressor. Cycled the valve many many times.

Now, I'm ready to take the bike out again and test the system. Too bad I've already started drinking beer....well, ok. maybe not.



Thanks for the tip! Loving this forum already!

Chris

 

[timothy_d]

Glad that you found it was the wastegate, but there is a critical reason to use Mouse Milk over any other penetrating oil.

Mouse Milk is used in turbocharged aircraft engines, and is exceptionally resistant to heat.



PB blaster can carbonize under extreme heat, and recreate the very situation that you just solved.



You should be fine for now, but as soon as you can, go to Aircraft Spruce, order a bottle and resquirt the armature.

 

[rxpx40]

Glad that you found it was the wastegate, but there is a critical reason to use Mouse Milk over any other penetrating oil.

Mouse Milk is used in turbocharged aircraft engines, and is exceptionally resistant to heat.



PB blaster can carbonize under extreme heat, and recreate the very situation that you just solved.



You should be fine for now, but as soon as you can, go to Aircraft Spruce, order a bottle and resquirt the armature.

Excellent advice. I will do just that sir.

Thanks again